Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along - Toy #1

Welcome to the September 2026 Crochet Along!

This post contains the crochet pattern for Toy #1 of this month’s Crochet Along.

The pattern is divided into sections to make it easier to follow. Simply open the clickable table of contents that is located below the video player and click on the part of the pattern you’d like to view.

I hope you have lots of fun! 🙂

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain

STR CH: starting chain

CR SP: corner space

FSP: first space

NSP: next space

SSP: same space

SL ST: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

DEC: standard decrease

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

BLO: back loops only

WL: whole loop

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Pattern Part 1 – Now Available

Pattern Part 1 – Section 1

Hook size if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm (C-2)

Hook size if using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm (E-4)

Yarn color: color A

Number of pieces: make two

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 2 {20}

R5-R7 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

Do not stuff and fold flat instead

R8: SC the opening together to close the piece {9} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Pattern Part 1 – Section 2

Hook size if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm (C-2)

Hook size if using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm (E-4)

Yarn color: color A, B and C

Number of pieces: make two

Start with color C

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: SC in each ST around {24}

R6: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 3 {27}

R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}

Change your yarn to color B

R9: SC in each ST around {27}

Change your yarn to color A

R10: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R11: SC in each ST around {24}

R12: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

Start stuffing the piece

R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R15: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R16: SC in each ST around {15}

R17: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

Stop stuffing the piece

R18: SC in each ST around {14}

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}

R20: SC in each ST around {13}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R25: SC the opening together to close the piece {5}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing

Pattern Part 2 – Now Available

Hook size if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3.5mm (E-4)

Hook size if using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 4.5mm (#7)

Yarn color: color A, B and C

Number of pieces: make one

Constructions: worked flat in rounds – I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern

You can watch this video tutorial to help you with the first few rounds, but be warned… it will reveal what this part of the pattern looks like straight away! 😉

Start with color A

R1:

MR – chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a corner space) – make sure you leave a very long tail when creating the magic ring as you will use it to sew the head to the blanket
3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the magic ring
slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {20 including the slip stitch}

R2:

Chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
1x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R1
double crochet into next 3 stitches
1x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the second corner space again
double crochet into next 3 stitches
1x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the third corner space again
double crochet into next 3 stitches
1x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the last corner space again
double crochet into next 3 stitches
slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {28 including the slip stitch}

R3:

Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R2
double crochet into next 5 stitches
2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again
double crochet into next 5 stitches
2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again
double crochet into next 5 stitches
2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again
double crochet into next 6 stitches
slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {44 including the slip stitch}

R4:

Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R3
double crochet into next 9 stitches
2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again
double crochet into next 9 stitches
2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again
double crochet into next 9 stitches
2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again
double crochet into next 10 stitches
slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {60 including the slip stitch}

I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the beginning of this pattern.

R5: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 13 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 14 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {76 incl SL ST}

R6: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 17 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 18 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {92 incl SL ST}

R7: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 21 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 22 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {108 incl SL ST}

R8: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 25 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 26 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {124 incl SL ST}

R9: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 29 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 30 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {140 incl SL ST}

R10: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 33 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 34 ST, change yarn to color C and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {156 incl SL ST}

R11: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 37 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 38 ST, change yarn to color A and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {172 incl SL ST}

R12: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 41 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 42 ST, change yarn to color B and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {188 incl SL ST}

R13: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 45 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 46 ST, change yarn to color A and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {204 incl SL ST}

R14: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 49 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 50 ST, change yarn to color C and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {220 incl SL ST}

R15: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 53 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 54 ST, change yarn to color B and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {236 incl SL ST}

R16: SL ST into next CH, CH 3, 3x DC into CR SP, DC in next 57 ST, (5x DC into CR SP, DC in next 57 ST) x 2, 5x DC into CR SP, DC in next 58 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH and INV FO {252 incl SL ST} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Weave all yarn tails in apart from the starting tail from the magic ring that you will use for sewing at the assembly stage.

If your item is too wavy, you may need to block it or gently press it flat with an iron on a low temperature setting.

Pattern Part 3 – Now Available

Hook size if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm (C-2)

Hook size if using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm (E-4)

Yarn color: color A, B and C

Number of pieces: make one

Start with color C

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 3 {33}

R7: SC in each ST around {33}

Change yarn to color B

R8: SC in each ST around {33}

Change yarn to color A

R9: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs {36}

R10: INC in first ST, SC in next 35 STs {37}

R11: SC in next 13 STs, INC in next 11 STs, SC in next 13 STs {48}

R12: SC in each ST around {48}

R13: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R14: SC in each ST around {54}

R15: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R18: WL – SC in next 11 STs, BLO – SC in next 40 STs, WL – SC in next 9 STs {60} – please note that WL means you will crochet into the whole loop as you would normally. I am using this abbreviation to make it extra clear, which stitches will be worked into back loop only (BLO) and which ones into the whole loop (WL)

R19: in this round, you will attach the pieces you made as Part 1 of this mystery pattern to this piece (I think by now you have gathered you will be attaching the ears :-)) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach ears to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

WL – SC in next 11 STs
BLO – SC in next 7 STs
attach the 1st ear: WL – SC in next 9 STs
BLO – SC in next 8 STs
attach the 2nd ear: WL – SC in next 9 STs
BLO – SC in next 7 STs
WL – SC in next 9 STs {60}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): WL – SC in next 11 STs, BLO – SC in next 40 STs, WL – SC in next 9 STs {60}

R22: WL – (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs), BLO – [SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs], WL – (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs) {54}

R23: WL – SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next ST, BLO – [SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST], WL – (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) {48}

R24: WL – SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, BLO – (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5), WL – SC in next 3 STs {42}

R25: BLO all around – (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing and continue to stuff gradually

R26: BLO all around – SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R27: BLO all around – (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R28: BLO all around – SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R29: BLO all around – (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R30: BLO all around – SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece. When you close the hole with a needle go through back loops only of the last round so this will be slightly different to what I show in the video. You want to leave the front loops of the last round exposed so you can crochet into them.

Pattern Part 4 – Now Available

Now you know we are making a lion, I can tell you that today we will be working on the mane. You will create the mane by crocheting loops into the unworked front loops from R18 of the head onwards. I’ve included a couple of photos just to get you started. 🙂

Hook size if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm (C-2)

Hook size if using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm (E-4)

Yarn color: color B

Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the unworked front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet more chains (e.g. 11 instead of 9) otherwise the loops may be too short

Step 1: create a slip knot on your hook

Step 2: hold the head so it’s facing you and insert your hook into the first front loop ST in R18 of the head and SC once, chain 9 and SC into next front loop ST – this is your first loop of the mane created

Step 3: SC into FL of next ST, CH 9, SC into FL of next ST – this is second loop of the mane created

Step 4: SC into FL of next ST, CH 9, SC into FL of next ST and repeat till the end of the row – when you crochet in front of the ears chain only 8 instead of 9

Step 5: once you get to the end of the front loops in R18, don’t cut the yarn and just simply continue to crochet into the next row (this is the row where the ears are attached). So you will crochet in the opposite direction with the head facing away from you.

Step 6: when you get to the first ear, cut the yarn off and weave the yarn tail in; create a slip knot on your hook with a new strand of yarn and start again on the other side of the ear; repeat when you get to the second ear

Step 7: continue to crochet the mane all around the head and weave the yarn ends in when done