Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi T-rex

Meet Danny the Dinosaur, a cute and playful relative of the magnificent creatures that once grazed on our planet. Although this free dinosaur crochet pattern is suited to more experienced crocheters, I would encourage everyone to give it a go!

This free pattern is full of step by step instructions, helpful photos and video tutorials that are easy to follow. So ROAR ahead and make this awesome Amigurumi dinosaur as a new cuddly friend for your little one. 🙂

How to Crochet a Dinosaur

• This free dinosaur crochet pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
• I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
• Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
• This free T-rex crochet pattern requires sewing at assembly.
• The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
• Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate to advanced crochet skills and knowledge

Sewing level: full-sew, sewing is required at assembly stage

Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

• when seated: 8.25 inches (21 cm)
• when standing: 11.25 inches (28.5 cm)

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

This free dinosaur crochet pattern will work great with the below type of yarn.

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)

Yarn I used for this Amigurumi dinosaur pattern:

• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
• 2x skein of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 69 – (50g/160m)
• 1x skein of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 49 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

• a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow embroidery
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 12 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This free T-rex dinosaur crochet pattern is written using US terms.

MR: magic ring (magic circle)

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

TC: treble crochet stitch

CH: chain

SL ST: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the stitch count at the end of each round

Special Stitches

INV DEC = invisible decrease:

• insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch
• then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
• yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
• yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern. Most of my video tutorials also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this dino crochet pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my free crochet patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

Download the Printable Pattern PDF

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free Amigurumi pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Head

Crochet using green yarn from the front of the head towards the back.

R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the other side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {42}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}

R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {54} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R9 as you will need to refer to it when crocheting the nostrils

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R15: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in each ST around {48}

R17: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 17 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R18: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 18 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R19: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 19 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {66}

R20: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 20 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {72} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R20 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R21-R29 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R30: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R31: SC in each ST around {66}

R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R20 and R21

– first eye – count 8 stitches from your stitch marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST8 and ST9

– second eye – count 30 stitches from your stitch marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole (Pic H4); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R33

– continue to stuff head gradually

R33: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R34: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R35: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R38: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R39: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R40: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R41: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Nostrils

Surface crochet the nostrils onto the head using green yarn – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet animal nostrils for Amigurumi

Step 1: Mark the place where you would like to crochet the nostrils – you can use pins with large heads, stitch markers or a string (Pic No1 and No2)

I placed the pins between R9 and R11 as follows:

– First nostril: between 2nd and 7th ST from the start of R9

– Second nostril: between 15th and 20th ST from the start of R9

Step 2: You can now surface crochet the nostrils following the below pattern:

– Insert your hook into first ST (between black and first pink pin) – Pic No3

– Grab your yarn and pull it through the stitch, chain 1x

– 2x DC in next ST (between first and second pink pin)

– 2x DC in next ST (between second and third pink pin)

– 1x SL ST in last ST (between third pink and black pin)

– Cut the yarn, pull on the yarn tails tight and weave them in.

Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top.

Use only green yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: SC in each ST around {60}

R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R14: SC in each ST around {66}

R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R16-R20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28-R29: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body.

R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R31-R33: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R34: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R35-R37: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R38: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R39-R40: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {36}

R41: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R42: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {30}

Belly

Crochet the belly as a circle using grey yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

INV FO leaving a long tail for sewing {60} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

Sew the belly to the lower part of the body.

Arms (Front Legs)

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

Start with grey yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in each ST around {18}

Change color to green yarn.

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R6-R10 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

Start stuffing the arm.

R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R12: SC in each ST around {21}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R17: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R18: SC in each ST around {17}

Stop stuffing the arm.

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R20: SC in each ST around {16}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R25: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

Toes

First crochet three separate toes and then connect them together to finish the foot.

Toes – 3x for each foot:

Start with grey yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R4: SC in each ST around {12}

R5: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {14}

Change color to green yarn.

R6: SC in next 3 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST {16}

R7: SC in each ST around {16}

1^st and 2^nd toe: FO after R7 and weave yarn ends in, insert a stitch marker into 1st ST of R7

3^rd toe: do not FO and leave your hook in after R7

Continue with R8 as described in the next ‘Feet’ section.

Feet

Crochet the three toes together to make a foot. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to join toes in Amigurumi

Use only green yarn.

R8:

– continue from where you finished with R7 in 3rd toe (Pic F1)

– SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook into the middle toe (into the ST with a stitch marker in it) (Pic F2) and SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook into the last toe (into the ST with a stitch marker in it) (Pic F4) and SC in next 16 ST

– insert your hook back into the middle toe (Pic F6) and SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook back into the original toe (3rd toe) (Pic F8) and SC in next 8 ST (Pic F9) {48}

– continue crocheting R9

R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R10: SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the toes and the foot.

R12: SC in each ST around {36}

R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R14: SC in each ST around {30}

R15: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R16: SC in each ST around {24}

R17: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R18: SC in each ST around {18}

R19: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R20: SC in each ST around {12}, add more stuffing if needed and close the hole with a needle, weave the yarn end in

Legs (Hind Legs)

Surface crochet the base of the leg into the foot and crochet upwards – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to surface crochet slip stitches on Amigurumi

Use only green yarn.

R1: Surface crochet 30 slip stitches into the foot:

– First use some thread and needle to outline the base of the leg keeping in mind that you need to surface crochet 30 slip stitches into the outline (Pic L1)

– Attach new strand of yarn to the back of the foot, insert your hook into the back of the foot (Pic L2) and start surface crocheting slip stitches around your outline (Pic L3)

– Surface crochet slip stitches all the way round to the back of the foot (Pic L4) and continue to crochet R2 in spiral

R2: SC in each ST around {30} (Pic L5)

R3: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R4: SC in each ST around {24}

R5: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R6: SC in each ST around {21}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R8: SC in each ST around {18}

R9: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R10 – R11 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R12: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

Stuff the leg up to R12.

R13 – R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R16: SC in each ST around {15}

R17: SC the opening together to close the leg, FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Tail

Crochet from the end of the tail towards the body using green yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: SC in each ST around {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7: SC in each ST around {15}

R8: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R9: SC in each ST around {18}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R11: SC in each ST around {21}

R12: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3 {24}

R13: SC in each ST around {24}

R14: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R15: SC in each ST around {27}

R16: SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC {30}

R17: SC in next 11 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 11 ST, INC {33}

R18: SC in each ST around {33}

R19: SC in next 12 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 12 ST, INC {36}

R20: SC in next 13 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 13 ST, INC {39}

R21: SC in each ST around {39}

You can now start stuffing the tail.

R22: SC in next 14 ST, INC, SC in next 8 ST, INC, SC in next 14 ST, INC {42}

R23: SC in each ST around {42}

R24: SC in next 15 ST, INC, SC in next 9 ST, INC, SC in next 15 ST, INC {45}

R25: SC in each ST around {45}

R26: SC in next 16 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 16 ST, INC {48}

R27: SC in each ST around {48}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Dinosaur Softie

Head: Pin the head to the dinosaur’s body first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the head to the body while adding more stuffing to make sure the head is not wobbly.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit your toy up to make sure the tail is not placed too low or too high. Sew the tail to the body and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R7 and R24.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed them between R32 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your crochet dino up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed them between R3 and R7 of the body.

Eye brows: You may wish to embroider the eye brows using a black thread yarn. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi. In this video, I embroider nostrils but you can use the same technique for embroidering the eye brows.

How to Crochet Dinosaur Spikes

First surface crochet slip stitches across the head and then crochet the spikes (crochet shells) into these stitches.

Use grey yarn to make the spikes.

Step 1: Use a thin thread yarn and outline where your surface crochet slip stitches will go (Pic S1).

Step 2: Follow your outline and surface crochet 20 slip stitches across the head; FO and weave your yarn ends in (Pic S2).

Step 3: You can now crochet the spikes into the slip stitches following the below pattern: (1x SL ST in first ST, 1x HDC in next ST, (1x DC, 1x TC, 1x DC) in next ST, 1x HDC in next ST, 1x SL ST in the next ST) x 4

FO and weave your yarn ends in (Pic S3)

Step 4: If you would like to crochet more than 4 spikes you can surface crochet more slip stitches across the head and down the back – allow 5 slip stitches per spike.

You have now finished your Amigurumi dinosaur. I hope you found my free crochet dinosaur pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the crochet toy.