Meet Danny the Dinosaur, a cute and playful relative of the magnificent creatures that once grazed on our planet. Although this free dinosaur crochet pattern is suited to more experienced crocheters, I would encourage everyone to give it a go! My pattern is full of step by step instructions and photos that are easy to follow so ROAR ahead and make this awesome Amigurumi dinosaur that is waiting to meet his new friend. 🙂

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate/advanced crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches

Finished size from spikes to toes: 30.5cm / 12 inches

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 69 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 49 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow embroidery, polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free dinosaur crochet pattern is written using US crochet terminology.

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

TC: treble crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

CHs: chain stitches

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

DEC: standard decrease

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free dinosaur crochet pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

Take advantage of this AMAZING OFFER! Open an Etsy shop using this link and list your first 40 items FREE!

How to Crochet the Head

Starting from the front of the head to the back.

R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the other side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {42}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}

R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {54} – leave your marker in at the beginning of R9 as you will need to refer to it when crocheting the nostrils

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R15: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in each ST around {48}

R17: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 17 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R18: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 18 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R19: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 19 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {66}

R20: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 20 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {72} – leave your marker in at the beginning of R20 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes

R21-R29 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R30: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R31: SC in each ST around {66}

R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R20 and R21

– first eye – count 8 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST8 and ST9

– second eye – count 30 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole (Pic H4); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R33

R33: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R34: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R35: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R38: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R39: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R40: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R41: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Nostrils

We will surface crochet the nostrils onto the head – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet animal nostrils for Amigurumi

Step 1: Mark the place where you would like to crochet the nostrils – you can use pins with large heads, stitch markers or a string (Pic No1 and No2)

I placed the pins between R9 and R11 as follows:

– First nostril: between 2nd and 7th ST from the start of R9

– Second nostril: between 15th and 20th ST from the start of R9

Step 2: You can now surface crochet the nostrils following the below pattern:

– Insert your hook into first ST (between black and first pink pin) – Pic No3

– Grab your yarn and pull it through the stitch, chain 1xST

– 2xDC in next ST (between first and second pink pin)

– 2xDC in next ST (between second and third pink pin)

– 1xSL in last ST (between third pink and black pin)

– Cut the yarn, pull on the yarn tails tight and weave them in.

How to Crochet the Body

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: SC in each ST around {60}

R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R14: SC in each ST around {66}

R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R16-R20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28-R29: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R31-R33: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R34: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R35-R37: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R38: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R39-R40: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {36}

R41: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R42: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

How to Crochet the Belly

Crochet a circle.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60} and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {60}

Sew the belly to the lower part of the body as shown in the photo below

How to Crochet the Arms

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in each ST around {18}

Change colour to green yarn

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R6-R10 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

Start stuffing the arm

R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R12: SC in each ST around {21}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R17: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R18: SC in each ST around {17}

Stop stuffing the arm

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R20: SC in each ST around {16}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R25: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Toes

First we will crochet three separate toes and then we will connect them together to finish the foot.

Toes – 3x for each foot:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R4: SC in each ST around {12}

R5: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {14}

Change colour to green yarn

R6: SC in next 3 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST {16}

R7: SC in each ST around {16}

1^st and 2^nd toe: FO after R7 and weave yarn ends in, insert a stitch marker into 1st ST of R7

3^rd toe: do not FO and leave your hook in after R7

Continue with R8 in the next section

How to Crochet the Feet

We will now crochet the toes together to make a foot. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to join toes in Amigurumi

R8:

– continue from where you finished with R7 in 3rd toe (Pic F1)

– SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook into the middle toe (into the ST with a marker in it) (Pic F2) and SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook into the last toe (into the ST with a marker in it) (Pic F4) and SC in next 16 ST

– insert your hook back into the middle toe (Pic F6) and SC in next 8 ST

– insert your hook back into the original toe (3rd toe) (Pic F8) and SC in next 8 ST (Pic F9) {48}

– continue crocheting R9

R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R10: SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the toes and the foot

R12: SC in each ST around {36}

R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R14: SC in each ST around {30}

R15: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R16: SC in each ST around {24}

R17: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R18: SC in each ST around {18}

R19: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R20: SC in each ST around {12}, add more stuffing if needed and close the hole with a needle, weave the yarn end in

How to Crochet the Legs

We will surface crochet the base of the leg into the foot and will crochet upwards – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to surface crochet slip stitches on Amigurumi

R1: Surface crochet 30 slip stitches into the foot:

– First use some thread and needle to outline the base of the leg keeping in mind that you need to surface crochet 30 SLs into the outline (Pic L1)

– Attach new strand of yarn to the back of the foot, insert your hook into the back of the foot (Pic L2) and start surface crocheting slip stitches around your outline (Pic L3)

– Surface crochet slip stitches all the way round to the back of the foot (Pic L4) and continue to crochet R2 in spiral

R2: SC in each ST around {30} (Pic L5)

R3: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R4: SC in each ST around {24}

R5: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R6: SC in each ST around {21}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R8: SC in each ST around {18}

R9: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R10 – R11 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R12: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

Stuff the leg up to R12

R13 – R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R16: SC in each ST around {15}

R17: SC the opening together to close the leg, FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Tail

Starting from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: SC in each ST around {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7: SC in each ST around {15}

R8: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R9: SC in each ST around {18}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R11: SC in each ST around {21}

R12: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3 {24}

R13: SC in each ST around {24}

R14: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R15: SC in each ST around {27}

R16: SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC {30}

R17: SC in next 11 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 11 ST, INC {33}

R18: SC in each ST around {33}

R19: SC in next 12 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 12 ST, INC {36}

R20: SC in next 13 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 13 ST, INC {39}

R21: SC in each ST around {39}

You can now start stuffing the tail

R22: SC in next 14 ST, INC, SC in next 8 ST, INC, SC in next 14 ST, INC {42}

R23: SC in each ST around {42}

R24: SC in next 15 ST, INC, SC in next 9 ST, INC, SC in next 15 ST, INC {45}

R25: SC in each ST around {45}

R26: SC in next 16 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 16 ST, INC {48}

R27: SC in each ST around {48}, FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Spikes

First we will surface crochet slip stitches across the head and then we will crochet the spikes into these.

Step 1: Use a thin thread yarn and outline where your surface crochet slip stitches will go (Pic S1).

Step 2: Follow your outline and surface crochet 20 slip stitches across the head; FO and weave your yarn ends in (Pic S2).

Step 3: You can now crochet the spikes into the slip stitches following the below pattern:

(1xSL in first ST, 1xHDC in next ST, (1xDC, 1xTC, 1xDC) in next ST, 1x HDC in next ST, 1xSL in the next ST) x 4
FO and weave your yarn ends in (Pic S3)

Step 4: If you would like to crochet more than 4 spikes you can surface crochet more slip stitches across the head and down the back – allow 5 slip stitches per spike.

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Assembly

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the body will be attached slightly towards the back of the head, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit your toy up to make sure the tail is not placed too low or too high. Sew the tail to the body and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R7 and R24, however you can attach it as per your preference.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed them between R32 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed them between R3 and R7 of the body.

Eye brows: You may wish to embroider the eye brows using a black thread yarn.

Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy. I hope you found my free dinosaur crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the dinosaur!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Pig Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Owl Pattern