This March is all about ‘Let’s Go Yellow’ to help Marie Curie Nurses provide care and compassion to someone at the end of their life. I have designed this free crochet giraffe lovey pattern to honour their work and I will donate all March sales from this pattern to the Marie Curie charity. If you would like to help me raise money to support this charity, you can purchase my Amigurumi giraffe PDF pattern here. Alternatively you can donate directly here. Thank you! 🙂
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – blanket: 32cm (12.5 inches) x 32cm (12.5 inches)
Finished size – giraffe height: 10cm (4 inches)
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet giraffe lovey pattern:
– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply
– 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
– 2x ball of yellow yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 157 – (100g/212m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 100 – (100g/212m)
– 1x ball of beige yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 122 – (100g/212m)
I love using the cotton and bamboo blend for this pattern as it makes the giraffe lovey blanket super soft and cuddly. You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn here in US and here in UK.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2 for the giraffe and 4mm = G/6 for the blanket. If using different weight of yarn, then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet giraffe lovey pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain
– STR CH: starting chain
– FSP: first space
– NSP: next space
– SSP: same space
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet giraffe lovey pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R4: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R5: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}
R6-R9 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R10: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R11: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}
R12: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing, do not stuff the ears
Ear embroidery:
Embroider the ears using a long piece of white yarn as per the photo below before attaching them to the head.
I embroidered the ears between R8 and R12.
How to Crochet the Horns
Crochet from the top of the horn downwards
Start with beige yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R4-R5 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}
Start stuffing
R7: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}
Change your yarn to yellow colour
R8-R11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {9}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing, stuff well
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet from the front of the head towards the back
Start with beige yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}
R7: SC in each ST around {33}
R8: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {36}
R9: SC in each ST around {36}
R10: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3 {39}
R11: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {42}
R12: SC in each ST around {42}
Change your yarn to white colour
R13: SC in each ST around {42}
Change your yarn to yellow colour
R14: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 7 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {54}
R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R17: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R18-R23 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R24: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R25: SC in each ST around {54}
R26: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R27: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R28: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
Start stuffing the head gradually
R29: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R30: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R31: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R32: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R33: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle and weave the yarn tail in.
Watch this step by step video on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards
Start with beige yarn
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: SC in each ST around {24}
R6: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}
R7: SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to white colour
R8: SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to yellow colour
R9: SC in each ST around {27}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R11: SC in each ST around {24}
R12: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm
R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R15: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R16: SC in each ST around {15}
R17: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
Stop stuffing the arm
R18: SC in each ST around {14}
R19: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}
R20: SC in each ST around {13}
R21: INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST {12}
R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R25: SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
How to Crochet the Blanket
Hook size I used: 4mm = G/6 – notice you need to use a bigger hook for the blanket
Crochet the blanket as a granny square starting from the middle
I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.
R1:
– Magic ring – make sure to leave a very long tail for sewing the head to the blanket at assembly stage
– 1x single crochet into the ring and chain 2 – this will count as your first double crochet
– 2x double crochet into the ring, chain 2, (3x double crochet into the ring, chain 2) x 3 (Pic B2)
– slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet (Pic B3) {20 including the slip stitches}
R2:
– 1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2 – this will again count as your first double crochet in this round (Pic B5)
– 2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B7)
– (3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space) x 3 (Pic B8)
– slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet (Pic B9) {32 including the slip stitches}
R3:
– 1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2 – this will again count as your first double crochet in this round
– 2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B12)
– 3x double crochet into the middle space (not the corner space) (Pic B13)
– (3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space, 3x double crochet into the next middle space) x 3
– slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet {44 including the slip stitches}
R4:
– 1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B17)
– 3x double crochet into the middle space (not the corner space)
– 3x double crochet into the next middle space (not the corner space) (Pic B19)
– (3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space, 3x double crochet into the next 2 middle spaces) x 3
– slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet {56 including the slip stitches}
I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top.
But the pattern is quite simple and you should always end up with the below at the end of each round:
– 3x DC, CH 2, 3 DC in each corner space
– 3x DC in each middle space
R5: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 3 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 3 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {68 incl SL STs}
R6: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 4 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 4 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {80 incl SL STs}
R7: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 5 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 5 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {92 incl SL STs}
R8: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 6 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 6 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {104 incl SL STs}
R9: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 7 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 7 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {116 incl SL STs}
R10: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 8 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 8 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {128 incl SL STs}
R11: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 9 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 9 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to beige colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {140 incl SL STs}
R12: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 10 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 10 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to white colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {152 incl SL STs}
R13: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 11 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 11 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to beige colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {164 incl SL STs}
R14: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 12 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 12 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to yellow colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {176 incl SL STs}
R15: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 13 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 13 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {188 incl SL STs}
R16: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 14 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 14 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to beige colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {200 incl SL STs}
R17: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 15 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 15 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to white colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {212 incl SL STs}
R18: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 16 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 16 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to beige colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {224 incl SL STs}
R19: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 17 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 17 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change your yarn to yellow colour and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {236 incl SL STs}
R20: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 18 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 18 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {248 incl SL STs}
R21: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 1 (this will count as 1st HDC), 2x HDC into same CR SP, SC in next 60 ST, (3x HDC into CR SP, SC in next 60 ST) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st HDC {252 incl SL ST}
Weave all yarn ends in but leave the tail from the magic ring for sewing the head to the blanket at assembly stage.
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Assembly:
Ears: Pin the ears to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R21 and R23 of the head.
Horns: Pin the horns to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the horns to the head and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the horns between R20 and R24 of the head with 4 STs in between them.
Eye and nostril embroidery: Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R14 and R18 leaving 13 STs (counting in R15) in between the inner corners of the eyes.
To embroider the nostrils, use the same white yarn you used for this project. I embroidered the nostrils between R6 and R7, leaving 6 STs in between them.
Attaching the head to the blanket:
Before attaching the head to the blanket, choose which way you would like the giraffe to face. I like to attach the head so that the giraffe is facing one of the corners of the blanket. Preferably you want the corner, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the giraffe.
It is important that the head is attached to the blanket firmly and securely as the baby, the lovey is intended for, is likely to pull on the head or the blanket often. I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 2 circles (Pic A1 & A2). If you feel the head is too wobbly, you can sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 3 circles so it is more steady.
But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions. You can attach the head the way you prefer. You can sew it together even in a cross and one circle.
First circle:
– use the yarn tail you were left with after creating the magic ring when starting the blanket
– thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail and pull it through the magic ring to the right side of the blanket
– use a pin to mark the centre of the head on the bottom side of it
– pull the needle through the stitches around the pin and then pull it through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring
Second circle: Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew the bottom part of the double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket to the head. Weave the yarn tail in.
Arms: Pin the arms to the blanket right by the side of the head and sew them securely. Weave the yarn tails in.
Free Crochet Giraffe Lovey Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Lovey Blanket:
You have now finished your crochet lovey blanket! I hope you found my free crochet giraffe lovey pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the giraffe!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern
Free Crochet Shark Pattern
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