Are you looking for a simple Amigurumi project that involves no sewing whatsoever? Then look no more! This free crochet octopus pattern is the perfect project for anyone who is not so keen on sewing their Ami parts together, I promise! 🙂 Plus you can use up all your yarn leftovers and make this Amigurumi octopus extra colourful! Imagination has no limits! 🙂
Free Crochet Octopus Pattern – Notes
Skill level: basic crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – height: 10cm / 4 inches
Finished size – width: 16cm / 6.5 inches
Free Crochet Octopus Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet octopus pattern:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 42 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 29 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 76 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of yellow yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 35 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 50 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE
or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for mouth embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 8mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Octopus Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet octopus pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Octopus Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet octopus pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Arms
Make 2 arms of each colour – 8 arms in total.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R11: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {33} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}
R13: SC in each ST around {30}
R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R15: SC in each ST around {24}
Stuff the arm at this point but do not stuff going forward.
R16: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R19: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R20: SC in each ST around {15}
R21: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC {13}
R22: SC in each ST around {13}
R23: SC the opening together to close the arm, FO and weave the yarn end in {6} – it is important you are left with 6 STs after closing the arm otherwise the stitches will not tally up when you attach the arms to the body
How to Crochet the Body
Crochet from the top of the body downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R13: SC in each ST around {72}
R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R15-R21 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R22: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R23-R25 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
Start stuffing the body.
R26: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R30: SC in each ST around {60}
R31: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R32: SC in each ST around {54}
R33: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R34: SC in each ST around – BLO {48}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the body well first
– place eyes between rounds R19 and R20 leaving 10 stitches in between the eyes
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in
– you can now insert the safety eyes and put the safety backs on
– re-stuff the body and continue to crochet R35
R35: You will attach the arms to the body in this round as shown in the photo below:
– you will now attach (single crochet) the first arm together with the first 6 STs of this round
– insert your hook into the first ST of the arm and then 1st ST (BLO) of R34
– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together
– repeat for the remaining 5 STs of the first arm
– continue to attach the remaining 7 arms all the way round {48} – each arm should have 6 STs after you closed it so multiplied by 8 arms gives you 48 STs, which is the number of STs in R34 and R35 of the body
You will now continue to close the body – this can be a bit fiddly with the arms in the way but you have only a few rounds left to finish off the body so try to be patient. 🙂
R36: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R37: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R38: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R39: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R40: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R41: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R42: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
You will now crochet the decorative hem/skirt:
– you will crochet this into the front loops of R34
– attach the same yarn you used for the body to the first front loop of R34
– SC in first ST (the same ST you attached the yarn to), DC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, DC in next ST, SC in next ST
– (SC in next ST, DC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, DC in next ST, SC in next ST) x 7
– FO, tight a double knot with the two yarn ends and weave them in
Mouth embroidery: you can embroider the mouth using a long piece of black thread yarn
Free Crochet Octopus Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:
You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet octopus pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the octopus!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern
Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern
Free Crochet Bunny Rabbit Pattern
I think my grandson will love the octopus
Thank you for your comment Joanie, I hope your grandson likes the octopus and that you enjoy making it! 🙂
Love, Petra