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In this video, I am going to show you how to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi. You may wonder why it is better to use the invisible decrease technique instead of the standard decrease. So before we get started with the video, I will let you in on this ‘not so secret’ secret. 🙂
Scroll down to watch the step by step video tutorial.
Or read more about how to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi below.
There are two reasons why I prefer crocheting with the invisible decrease. First reason is to avoid big holes in your work that happen when you use the standard decrease. And the second reason is to minimise the bumbs when decreasing.
The invisible decrease method will help to make your work look neater and tighter without big holes and bumps, which is why I follow this simple technique in all of my patterns.

How to Crochet an Invisible Decrease for Amigurumi – Instructions
In this video I use US crochet terminology.
– insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch (you will have two loops on the hook)
– immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (you will have three loops on the hook)
– yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on the hook (you will have two loops left on the hook)
– yarn over and pull the yarn through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

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How to Crochet an Invisible Decrease for Amigurumi – Watch the Video Here
Right Handed
Left Handed
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Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Happy crocheting!



Just wanted to thank you for the lovely free patterns..I searched Pinterest for hours looking for a monkey pattern…gave up on the end and went to google where I found you and and all your lovely free patterns..I am nearly finished the head..I’m doing it in 8 ply and a 4 hook so it probably be the same size as a real monkey.😂 Thank you.Jackie
Hi Jackie, it’s a pleasure. So happy to hear you like my patterns! 🙂 When using 8 ply yarn I would personally recommend a 3mm hook to avoid having gaps between your stitches but if 4mm works for you then that’s absolutely fine. But yes, the toy will be a bit bigger than mine. :-))
Hope you enjoy making the rest of it.
Love,
Petra x
Hi! I’m currently working on your giraffe lovey project. My ears did not turn out to decrease the stitches at the bottom as your picture displays. I have a feeling it might be me not understanding your directions of including an invisible decrease. What I’ve been doing is when it says “SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC”, I’ll do a single crochet in two individual stitches, and then in the next following (2 stitches, as this tutorial video shows), I’ll use as the invisible decrease. Is this right?
Hi Carly, I have replied to your email already but in case you see this message first…I think you mised R11 and R12 which would decrease the ears further and should looke fine then. But please let me know if you need more help. 🙂
Love, Petra x
Wondering if anyone can describe, in detail, how to sew the snail shell to the back of the snail body? L Do you use a few stitches down the middle, or the edges of the shell? Do you sew the shell to the bottom of the body. I’m assuming you use the yarn color of the shell rather than of the snail body? Is there a video tutorial of the shell attachment process?
Thanks!
Hi Lori, the best way to attach the snail sheel is to sew it to the body in the middle of the shell and then around the edges. This way it will be securely attached. You can use the same yarn (colour) as the body and try to sew it just to the top of the body rather than all the way through the body otherwise you will be able to see the stitches on the bottom. If you are struggling with sewing it to the body, you can always glue it using a fabric glue or hot glue gun. 🙂
Unfortunately I don’t have a video tutorial but I hope this helps.
Love, Petra x