This free crochet bunny lovey pattern is my first crochet lovey blanket I have ever designed and I must say I really really enjoyed it. Once you finish the first few rounds of the blanket, you can just completely ‘swith off your brain’ and just get on with it! Seriously relaxing! 🙂 It was also my first time working with the Lion Brand Coboo yarn and I am really happy I went for the natural cotton/bamboo blend. As a result the Amigurumi bunny lovey is super soft and cuddly, which is what you are after when you crochet for a baby. 🙂 If you would like to crochet the bunny rattle as well, then you can find the Sleepy Bunny – free crochet rattle pattern here.
Find the Sleepy Bunny – free crochet rattle pattern here.
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Notes
Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – blanket: 30.5cm (12 inches) x 30.5cm (12 inches)
Finished size – bunny height: 14cm (5.5 inches)
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet bunny lovey pattern:
– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply
– 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
– 1x ball of pink yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 101 – (100g/212m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 100 – (100g/212m)
I love using the cotton and bamboo blend for this pattern as it makes the bunny lovey blanket super soft and cuddly. You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn here in US and here in UK.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet bunny lovey pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain
– STR CH: starting chain
– CR SP: corner space
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet bunny lovey pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
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How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}
R8-R13 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R14: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R17: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R18: SC in each ST around {15}
R19: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}
R20: SC in each ST around {12}
Do not stuff, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Fold the bottom of each ear in half and sew it together before attaching the ears to the head.
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet a ball.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11-R20 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R21: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R22: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R23: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R24: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
Start stuffing the head and keep stuffing as you go along.
R25: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R26: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R27: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R28: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R29: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}
R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
Change yarn to pink colour.
R8: SC in each ST around {27}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R10: SC in each ST around {24}
R11: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm.
R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R14: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R15: SC in each ST around {15}
R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
Stop stuffing the arm.
R17: SC in each ST around {14}
R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}
R19: SC in each ST around {13}
R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST {12}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R24: SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Blanket
Crochet the blanket as a square starting from the middle.
I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.
R1: Magic ring – chain 4 (the first 2 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a corner space), 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the magic ring, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B3 & B4) {19 including the slip stitch}
R2: Chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 1x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R1 (Pic B5 & B6), double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {28 including the slip stitch}
R3: Slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B9 & B10), chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R2, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 6 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {44 including the slip stitch}
R4: Slip stitch into next stitch, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R3, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 10 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {60 including the slip stitch}
I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top of this page.
R5: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 13 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 14 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {76 incl SL ST}
R6: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 17 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 18 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {92 incl SL ST}
R7: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 21 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 22 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {108 incl SL ST}
R8: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 25 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 26 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {124 incl SL ST}
R9: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 29 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 30 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {140 incl SL ST}
R10: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 33 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 34 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {156 incl SL ST}
R11: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 37 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 38 ST, change yarn to white colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {172 incl SL ST}
R12: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 41 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 42 ST, change yarn to pink colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {188 incl SL ST}
R13: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 45 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 46 ST, change yarn to white colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {204 incl SL ST}
R14: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 49 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 50 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {220 incl SL ST}
R15: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 53 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 54 ST, change yarn to pink colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {236 incl SL ST}
R16: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 57 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 58 ST, change yarn to white colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {252 incl SL ST}
R17: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 61 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 62 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {268 incl SL ST}
R18: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 65 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 66 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {284 incl SL ST}
R19: SL ST into next ST, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 69 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 70 ST, change yarn to pink colour and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {300 incl SL ST}
R20: SL ST into next ST, CH 2, 2x HDC into CR SP, (HDC in next ST, SC in next 71 ST, HDC in next ST, 4x HDC into CR SP) x 3, HDC in next ST, SC in next 72 ST, HDC in last ST and SL ST into 2nd CH of STR CH {308 incl SL ST}
FO and weave the yarn end in.
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Assembly:
Ears: Pin the ears to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R4 and R6 of the head, however you can attach them as per your preference.
Eye and nose embroidery: Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R13 and R15 leaving 7 stitches in between the eyes.
To embroider the nose, use the same white yarn you used for the blanket. I embroidered the nose between R16 and R20.
Attaching the head to the blanket: Before attaching the head to the blanket, chose which way you would like the bunny to face. I like to attach the head diagonally so the bunny is facing one of the corners. Preferably you want the corner, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the bunny.
It is important that the head is attached to the blanket firmly and securely as the baby the lovey is intended for is likely to pull on the head or the blanket often. I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 3 circles (Pic A1). This way the lovey can’t be pulled apart and the head will be nice and steady instead of being wobbly.
But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions below. You can attach the head the way you prefer. You can sew it together around 2 circles or even in a cross and one circle.
First circle: Thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail you were left with after finishing the head. Pull the needle through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring (Pic A2). Then go back into the head through the centre of the closing circle.
Second circle: Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew R28 of the head to the top part of the double crochet stitches in R1 of the blanket. There are 12 stitches in R28 and 12 double crochet stitches in R1 of the blanket so the stitches should telly up. If you continue to sew in a circle always going through the top part of the double crochet stitches (skipping the corner spaces), you will be left with a neat finish.
Third circle: Still using the same yarn tail you used for the first two circles, sew R26 of the head to the top part of the double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket. There are 24 stitches in R26 and 20 double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket so you can skip one stitch in R26 every time you come to the corner space in R2. Once you have completed the full circle, weave the yarn tail in.
Arms: Pin the arms to the blanket right by the side of the head and sew them securely. Weave the yarn tails in.
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Lovey Blanket:
You have now finished your crochet lovey blanket! I hope you found my free crochet bunny lovey pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the bunny!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Frog Pattern
Free Crochet Koala Pattern
Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern
Absolutely love the bunny lovey pattern. Thank you so much 💓
Hi Claire, thank you so much for your lovely comment and you are more than welcome! 🙂 I am happy you like the bunny lovey pattern!
Love, Petra x
Thank you for sharing your beautiful art.
Hi Laura, thank you so much for your lovely comment. And you are more than welcome!
Love, Petra 🙂