Try this free crochet fox pattern to make this adorable Amigurumi fox that will make a perfect gift for any child or adult who likes soft cuddles! This fox softie is a great crochet project for you to have fun with and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your loved one’s face. I have included lots of photos and video tutorials to guide you through it so why don’t you check it out?

Free Crochet Fox Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate/advanced crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches

Finished size from ears to toes: 30cm / 12 inches

Free Crochet Fox Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used for this free crochet fox pattern:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend

– 2x ball of orange yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 85 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)

For the hairy bands on arms and legs:

– Light Worsted #3 = DK

– 100% polyester

– 1x ball of cream yarn – Stylecraft Eskimo eyelash yarn – colour 5211 – (50g/90m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1 (2mm for the eyelash yarn), if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Fox Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet fox pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate parts; you will then crochet these two parts together.

Yarn colour: cream yarn for the inside of the ears, orange yarn for the outside of the ears, black yarn for the tip of the ears

For both the inside and outside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (L INC, SC in next ST) x 3 {12}

R3: SC in next ST, L INC, (SC in next 3 ST, L INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}

R4: SC in next 2 ST, L INC, (SC in next 5 ST, L INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {24}

R5 (inside of the ear only): SC in next 3 ST, L INC, (SC in next 7 ST, L INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST and FO {30}, weave the yarn end in

R5 (outside of the ear only): SC in next 3 ST, L INC, (SC in next 7 ST, L INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {30}

R6 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {30}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the inside and outside part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E1, E2):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R6 of the outside part of the ear

– slip your hook through the next ST of the outside part

– and then slip your hook through the corresponding ST of the inside part

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each part together = SC in next 12 ST (this includes the SC from the above step), change colour to black yarn, SC in next 6 ST, change colour to orange yarn, SC in next 12 ST {30}

– FO and pull the yarn tail through the stitches into one of the bottom corners of the ear ready for sewing it to the head (Pic E5, E6)

How to Crochet the Muzzle Patch

Crochet in rows, rather than in rounds.

R1: Chain 9 ST {9}

R2: SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {9}

R3: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 8 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook (Pic M2), INC in last ST {10}

R4: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {11}

R5: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC in last ST {13}

R6: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 12 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {14}

R7: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in last ST {16}

R8: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 15 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {17}

R9: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 8 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC, SC in next 7 ST, INC in last ST {19}

R10: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 18 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {20}

R11: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in last ST {23}

R12: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 22 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {24}, DO NOT FO

You will now single crochet all the way round the muzzle patch to create a neat edging.

– continue from where you finished in R12

– SC once more in last ST of R12

– SC in the side of the patch, i.e. SC into each row = 10x SC (Pic M4)

– 8x SC into R1 of the muzzle patch

– SC in the opposite side of the patch, i.e. SC into each row = 9x SC, 1x INC, FO, weave the yarn ends in

– you should end up with 54 stitches in total but don’t worry if you have one or two stitches less or more (Pic M8)

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the front to the back of the head.

Start with the cream yarn.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5-R6 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R7: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R10: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R16: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {50}

You will now attach the muzzle patch to the head in R17

R17:

Step1: change yarn to orange colour

Step2: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2

Step3: you will now crochet the patch to the next 25 STs of the head

Step4: insert your hook into the first ST of the top part of the patch and then the next stitch of R17 (Pic H1)

Step5: so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

Step6: follow the pattern below to crochet the patch to the head:

Step7: SC in next 5 ST (this includes the ST from Step5), INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST

Step8: continue to crochet R17 without the patch following the pattern below:

Step9: SC in next 2 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {58}

The muzzle will now look as shown in Pic H4 – the muzzle patch will be attached to the head by the top part

Nose embroidery:

Before you continue crocheting the head, embroider the nose using a long piece of black yarn. You will attach the shorter end of the muzzle patch to the muzzle while embroidering the nose.

Do not pull on the black yarn too tight as the muzzle will grow a bit when you stuff it.

– thread a needle with the black yarn and pull it through the first stitch on the shorter end of the muzzle patch, then pull it through the centre of the magic ring on the muzzle

– repeat the above step for each stitch on the shorter end of the muzzle patch, there should be 8 stitches in total (Pic N2)

– go through each of the 8 stitches again to fill in the gaps in the nose and then pull the thread across the top of the nose twice or three times (Pic N3)

– weave the yarn ends in and continue crocheting the head

R18: SC in each ST around {58}

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {66}

R20: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {74} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R20 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R21-R26 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {74}

R27: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 60 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 4 ST {72}

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R30: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R31: SC in each ST around {66}

R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R33: SC in each ST around {60}

R34: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R35: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R36: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R37: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H5)

– place the eyes between rounds R20 and R21

– first eye – count 24 stitches (count INC as 2 stitches) from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST24 and ST25

– second eye – count 48 stitches (count INC as 2 stitches) from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST48 and ST49

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H6)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H7)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H9)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H10)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn end in

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H12) and continue crocheting R38

– continue to stuff the head as you go along

R38: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R39: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R40: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R41: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R42: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle and weave the yarn end in.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R13: SC in each ST around {72}

R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R15-R20 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R21: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R25: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R26-R28 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now start stuffing the body

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R32: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R33-R35 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R36: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R37: SC in each ST around {48}

R38: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R39: SC in each ST around {42}

R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R41: SC in each ST around {36}

R42: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R43: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}; stuff well

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

If you would prefer to crochet the arms without the eye lash yarn, then just crochet R12-R14 in a whole stitch rather than in BLO. And use INV DEC instead of standard DEC.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6-R9 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R10: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to cream colour

R11: SC in each ST around {24}

R12: BLO – SC in each ST around {24}

R13: BLO – SC in next 3 ST, DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

Change yarn to orange colour

R14: BLO – SC in each ST around {21}

R15: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R18: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R19-R23 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}

R28-R30 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {13}

R31: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

You can now crochet the hairy band using your eyelash yarn:

– Use 2mm crochet hook for the eyelash yarn

– Attach the yarn to the first ST in R12 of the arm and SC into each front loop of R12-R14 (Pic A1)

– FO and weave the yarn ends in

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.

If you would prefer to crochet the legs without the eye lash yarn, then just crochet R14-R16 in a whole stitch rather than in BLO. And use INV DEC instead of standard DEC.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R12: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {33}

Change yarn to cream colour

R13: SC in each ST around {33}

R14: BLO – (SC in next 9 ST, DEC) x 3 {30}

R15: BLO – SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to orange colour

R16: BLO – (SC in next 3 ST, DEC) x 6 {24}

R17: SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R18: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R19-R20 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R21: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R24: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R25-R29 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R30: SC the opening together to close the leg and, FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

You can now crochet the hairy band using your eyelash yarn:

– Use 2mm crochet hook for the eyelash yarn

– Attach the yarn to the first ST in R14 of the leg and SC into each front loop of R14-R16

– FO and weave the yarn ends in

How to Crochet the Tail

Crochet from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

Change yarn to orange colour

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {24}

R9: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R10: SC in each ST around {30}

R11: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R12-R19 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

Start stuffing the tail

R20: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R21: SC in each ST around {30}

R22: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R23: SC in each ST around {24}

R24: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R27: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R28: SC in each ST around {12}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing, stuff well

Free Crochet Fox Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R28 and R31 of the head with 9 STs in between them.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R35 and R42 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R10 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R12 and R16 of the body.

Free Crochet Fox Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet fox pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the fox!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Octopus Pattern
Free Crochet Bunny Rabbit Pattern
Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern