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This cute Amigurumi koala is called Kevin after my husband who is a big fan of my crochet toys. I just wish he knew how to crochet so he could help me out sometimes! 🙂 Anyways, this free crochet koala pattern is finally ready for you guys so I hope you like it and enjoy making this cuddly koala bear. Happy crocheting! 🙂
Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- All you need to know is basic crochet stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
- And more importantly…you will have fun making a beautiful gift for your little one or family and friends
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Free Crochet Koala Pattern – Before You Get Started
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when seated: 21cm / 8.5 inches when using a 2.5mm crochet hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
Finished size from ears to toes: 28cm / 11 inches when using a 2.5mm crochet hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
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Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet koala pattern:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 80 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton:: WeCrochet Animation DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: WeCrochet Brava
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey
If you would like to check some more substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Abbreviations Used
This free crochet koala pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Koala Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
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Printable Crochet Koala Pattern
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Free Crochet Koala Pattern – Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free crochet koala pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Ears
Crochet from the top towards the base; crochet the inside of the ear separately.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6-R8 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}
R9: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}
R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {33}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Do not stuff the ears.
The inside of the ear:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: SC in next 2 ST, 1x L INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST, 1x L INC {18}
R4: SC in next 3 ST, 1x L INC, SC in next 12 ST, 1x L INC, SC in next ST {22}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Sew the inside of the ear to the ear as shown below.
Nose
Crochet from the centre of the nose; starting with a chain.
R1: Chain 8 ST {8} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 5 ST, INC in last ST {16}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 5 ST, INC in last 2 ST {22}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 5 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 5 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {28}
R5-R6 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {28}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing; stuff the nose at assembly stage.
Mystery Crochet Along
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Head
Crochet from the front to the back of the head.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: SC in each ST around {48}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R11: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R11 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R13: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R14: SC in each ST around {72}
R15: SC in next 13 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 13 ST {78}
R16-R25 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R26: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R27: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R28: SC in each ST around {66}
R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R30: SC in each ST around {60}
R31: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R32: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R33: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R34: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– place the eyes between rounds R11 and R12
– first eye – count 21 stitches from your marker at the start of R11 and place the eye between ST21 and ST22
– second eye – count 39 stitches from your marker at the start of R11 and place the eye between ST39 and ST40
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R35
– continue to stuff the head as you go along
R35: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R36: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R37: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R38: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R39: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
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Body
Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R13: SC in each ST around {72}
R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R15-R20 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R21: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R25: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R26-R28 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
You can now start stuffing the body
R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R32: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R33-R35 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R36: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R37: SC in each ST around {48}
R38: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R39: SC in each ST around {42}
R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R41: SC in each ST around {36}
R42: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R43: SC in each ST around {30}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing; stuff well.
Belly
Crochet from the centre of the belly, starting with a chain.
R1: Chain 7 ST {7} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in last ST {14}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in last 2 ST {20}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {26}
R5: SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {32}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {38}
R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {44}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {50}
R9: SC in next 3 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 3 ST {56}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {62}
R11: SC in each ST around {62}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
You can sew the belly to the body at this stage.
Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R12: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R14: SC in each ST around {24}
R15: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R19: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R29: SC in each ST around {15}
R30: SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Legs
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 13 ST, INC) x 3 {45}
R9-R13 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {45}
R14: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST {39}
R15: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST {33}
R16: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST {27}
R17: SC in each ST around {27}
You can now start stuffing the leg
R18: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R19: SC in each ST around {24}
R20: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R23: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R26: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R27-R30 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R31: SC the opening together to close the leg
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
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Tail
Crochet from the centre of the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5-R8 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R9: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
You can now stuff the tail.
How to Assemble Your Koala Softie
Nose: Pin the nose to the head first making sure it is placed in the centre between the eyes; add stuffing at the same time. I placed the nose between R8 of the head at the top and R5 of the head at the bottom.
Ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R21 and R28 of the head with 14 STs in between them.
Body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.
Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R33 and R42 of the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R10 of the body.
Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R12 and R19 of the body.
Eye brow embroidery: You can embroider the eye brows using a long piece of black thread yarn. I embroidered the eye browse between R14 and R16 with 16 STs in R14 between them. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi. In this video, I embroider nostrils but you can use the same technique for embroidering the eye brows.
You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free koala crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet koala pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet tiger pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
No-sew crochet chick pattern (free PDF)
Or explore more of my crochet ZOO animals patterns. From fun Safari animals to playful jungle critters, there is something for everyone to love!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.
Just finished my koala from this pattern and I love it. I used an F (3.75 mm hook) and Big Twist yarn so it came out larger than described here – 14 inches seated – but it looks great. After looking at a lot of koala pictures, I added white yarn above and below the eyes and am in the process of adding fuzzy yarn along the edges of the ears. Will post a picture on your Facebook page when it’s done.
Hi Barbara, thank you for your comment. So pleased to hear you are happy with the koala and I can’t wait to see the finished toy with your added touches. I bet it’s going to look lovely! 🙂
Love, Petra x
Petra – I’m so bad with Instagram but I’ll try to post a photo with the hash tag you listed. I’ve now made it 3 times. Recipients love them!
Thank you so much Barbara, this is much appreciated! 🙂 And I am happy to hear the koala is so popular! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Just finished the Koala. Thank you so much for sharing this easy to follow pattern!
Hi Yvonne, Thank you so much for your message. I am very happy you liked my koala pattern!
Love, Petra x
I love your patterns I’ve made so many of them for friends and family thank you for sharing if you’d like I’d love to show a picture of the latest koala bear that I made for my daughter whose turning 16. I just need a idea for how to interpret a 16 symbol any suggestions please thanks
Hi Krystal, thank you so much for your lovely comment! 🙂 I am super happy you like making my toys for your family and friends. They are very lucky they have such a generous lady in their life. 🙂 I would love to see the picture of your koala. You can share it on Instagram with my tag @cuddlystitchescraft or you can join my Facebook group and share the picture there https://www.facebook.com/groups/cuddlystitchescommunity
Either way, I will be able to see it. 🙂
With regards to the 16 symbol, I think you could cross stitch this on the finished toy. Each SC stitch would be a cross stitch. I think if you search on Youtube, there are some videos showing how to do this.
I hope this helps and I can’t wait to see your koala and other creations. 🙂
Love, Petra
Thank you so much!
Hi Danielle, thank you for your lovely comment and you are more than welcome! I’m happy you like my patterns! 🙂
Love, Petra
Thank you for your pattern and your generosity.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment Donna. You are very welcome! 🙂
Love,
Petra
How can I get the pattern in pdf form?
Hi Monique,
You can purchase the PDF form for a small fee from my Etsy store here:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CuddlyStitchesCraft
Your contribution helps to cover the cost of materials I need in order to design the patterns and also covers a bit of my time so I can continue to offer my patterns for free online for all of you to enjoy.
Thank you! 🙂
Love, Petra