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This free crochet monkey pattern has been inspired by our recent visit to the ZOO, where we saw lots of cute monkeys. They were so much fun to watch and our daughter just loved them! So of course, I couldn’t help myself but crochet one for her. 🙂
This Amigurumi monkey is pretty easy to make and the head and body are crocheted in one piece so less sewing for you to do! 🙂

Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- All you need to know is basic crochet stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
- And more importantly…you will have fun making a beautiful gift for your little one or family and friends
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Free Crochet Monkey Pattern – Before You Get Started
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when seated: 20cm / 8 inches when using a 2.5mm crochet hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
Finished size from head to toes: 27cm / 10.5 inches when using a 2.5mm crochet hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
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Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet monkey pattern:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of dark brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 70 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of light brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton:: WeCrochet Animation DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: WeCrochet Brava
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey
If you would like to check some more substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Abbreviations Used
This free crochet monkey pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Monkey Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
Cuddly Stitches Community
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How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns
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Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Printable Crochet Monkey Pattern
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Free Crochet Monkey Pattern – Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free crochet cat pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Ears
Crochet from the end of the ear.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R12: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Eyes
Crochet from the centre of the eye.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – don’t make the MR too tight and leave a small hole in the middle for the safety eyes
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
You will now crochet the decorative hem
R6: (Chain 1 ST and SL ST into next ST) x repeat all the way round
FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Snout
Crochet from the front of the snout.
R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}
R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}
R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {42}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}
R9: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 3 ST {54}
R10-R15 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing.
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Head
Crochet head and body in one piece starting from the top of the head down to the bottom of the body.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R13-R23 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R24: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R25: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R26: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R27: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R28: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R29: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – insert the pins through the small holes you left in the centre of the eyes (Pic H1)
– remove the eyes while leaving the pins in place; insert the safety eyes through the centre of each eye first and then insert them into the head (Pic H2)
– place the eyes between rounds R14 and R15
– first eye – count 27 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST27 and ST28
– second eye – count 37 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST37 and ST38
– you can now put the safety backs on and sew the eyes to the head; continue to crochet R30

R30: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R31: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R32: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R33: SC in each ST around {18}
Do not FO as you will now continue to crochet the body as per the pattern in the next section
Body
Continue to crochet from R33 of the head from the previous section.
R34: Continue where you finished with R33 of the head – INC in each ST around {36}
R35: SC in each ST around {36}
R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R37: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R38: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R39: SC in each ST around {54}
R40: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R41-R43 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R44: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R45-R48 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R49: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R50-R53 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R54: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R55-R58 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R59: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R60: SC in each ST around {72}
R61: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R62: SC in each ST around {66}
R63: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R64: SC in each ST around {60}
R65: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R66: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R67: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R68: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R69: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R70: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R71: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R72: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R73: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
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Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}
R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {33}
R10: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}
R11: SC in each ST around {30}
R12: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
Change yarn to dark brown colour
R13: SC in each ST around {24}
R14: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R17: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R20: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R23: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R26: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R29: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
R30 -R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}
R32: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Legs
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8-R12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R14: SC in each ST around {36}
R15: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
Change yarn to dark brown colour
R16: SC in each ST around {30}
R17: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
You can now start stuffing the leg
R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R20: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R23: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R24-R26 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R27: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R30: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R31: SC the opening together to close the leg
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Tail
Crochet from the end of the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R4-R9 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
Change yarn to dark brown colour and start stuffing the tail
R10-R37 (28 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
If you would like the tail to be extra bendy you can insert a craft wire or a hair curler inside.
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How to Assemble Your Crochet Monkey Softie
Head and snout: Pin the snout to the head first making sure that it looks symmetrical. Sew the snout to the head and stuff gradually while sewing. I attached the snout one row below the safety eyes and all the way down to the neck.
Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure that they look symmetrical from the front and the back. Sew the ears to the head. I attached them between R9 and R21 of the head.
Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed them between R37 and R42 of the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed them between R65 and R73 of the body.
Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit your toy up to make sure the tail is not placed too low or too high. Sew the tail to the body and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R57 and R63 of the body.
Nose, mouth and belly button embroidery: Embroider the nose and mouth using the dark brown yarn as shown in the photo below. Use pins to mark the spots where you would like the nose and mouth to be before you start embroidering. I placed the nose between R10 and R11 and the mouth between R3 and R5 of the snout.
Use light brown yarn for the belly button. I placed the belly button between R58 and R62 of the body.

You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free monkey crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet monkey pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet sloth pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Free crochet hippo lovey pattern
Or explore more of my crochet ZOO animals patterns. From fun Safari animals to playful jungle critters, there is something for everyone to love!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.

I love the pattern. Will surely mske this & will be glad to follow you on facebook & you tube. Thank you so much
Thank you so much Joyce, I appreciate your following! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Thank you for sharing this pattern for free. This is my largest creature so far…he’s a monster monkey but ever so cute! A great gift for a special child!
You are very welcome Amanda, I’m pleased to hear you are happy with the monkey! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Fun doing pattern. I used worsted weight yarn so my monkey is bigger but still cute. Used G hook with yarn
Thank you Valerie, happy to hear you were pleased with the finished toy and it worked with worsted weight yarn as well. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Your patterns are so beguiling. Can’t wait to begin them.
Thank you so much Georgia! 🙂 Hope you enjoy making them.
Love,
Petra x
Thank you so much for sharing your patterns. I admire those of you that can make up patterns! I love to crochet, but have to have a pattern to follow!
Hi Elaine,
thank you so much for your lovely message. 🙂 It comes with lots of practice and then suddenly you realise you can write a pattern of your own. 🙂 But I understand it’s a skill that takes time to develop.
Anyway, I’m happy you like my patterns and hopefully you find them easy to follow. :-0
Love,
Petra x
hi! for the ears, once the round is completed does it get folded into a half circle before being attached? my ears keep coming out at bowls as opposed to a flat circle. thank you!
Hi Kim, yes you will have to fold the ears but they will not be flat, they will be curved and that is how you will sew them on as well. This way they will look more natural.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions.
Love,
Petra x
Great pattern! easy to follow! the little this is for is going to love it! thank you for sharing your talent.
Thank you for your comment JacLynn and you are very welcome! 🙂 I hope the little one likes it. 🙂
Love, Petra x
Is there a step by step video for this monkey? I downloaded the pattern.
Hi Laurel, thank you for purchasing my pattern! 🙂 Unfortunately I don’t have a video tutorial for this monkey. Sorry I can’t help on this occasion.
Love, Petra x
This was my first big amigurumi and I am so happy with the result! Amazing pattern and instructions! Thank you so much <3
You are more than welcome Rudy. I am so happy to hear you found the instructions good and are happy with the result! 🙂
Love, Petra x
Thank you for letting everyone use your patterns for free—-I love them and I have a new great-grandson Thanks again. Hope you have great day and a better tomarrow.
Judith Acosta
Hi Judith,
Thank you for your lovely comment and congratulations to the birth of your new great-grandson! 🙂 You must be a very proud great-grandma. 🙂
I am sure he will love the toys you make for him.
Have a lovely day also.
Love, Petra 🙂
Muy buenos patrones. Gracias por compartir
Hi Maria, thank you so so much, happy to hear you like my patterns. 🙂
Love, Petra
Thank you very much for not only giving us a great pattern, but also for being so precise and particular in printing out the pattern. You have done a beautiful job of both!!!!
Hi Jean, thank you so much for your kind feedback and for taking the time to comment on here. 🙂 You have made my day! 🙂 I am very happy you like my patterns! Thank you again.
Kind regards,
Petra