Free Crochet Snail Pattern

Free Crochet Snail Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of yellow yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 35 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of multicolour yarn – YarnArt Jeans Tropical – colour 616 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of thin black yarn for mouth embroidery, heavy stuffing to add weight to the shell – e.g. glass or metal beads/pellets, dried beans or poly pellets

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 8mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Snail Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

TC: treble crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Snail Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet snail pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Head and Body

Crochet from the front of the head to the back of the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9-R14 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {48} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R11 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in each ST around {42}

R17: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R18: SC in each ST around {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R11 and R12 with 8 stitches in between them

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes and put the safety backs on (Pic H2)

Continue to stuff gradually.

R19: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R20: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R21: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R22-R32 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {21} – stop stuffing after R30

R33: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {24}

R34-R35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R36: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R37-R38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}

R39: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {30}

R40-R47 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R48: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}

R49-R52 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}

R53: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R54: SC in each ST around {24}

R55: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R56: SC in each ST around {21}

R57: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R58: SC in each ST around {18}

R59: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R60: SC in each ST around {15}

R61: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}

R62: SC in each ST around {12}

R63: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}

R64: SC in each ST around {9}

R65: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3 {6}

FO, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn end in.

How to Crochet the Shell

Crochet as a ball.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R12-R20 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

Start stuffing gradually – if you would like your snail to sit upright, it is necessary to add some heavy stuffing inside the shell otherwise the snail will tip over. You can use e.g. glass or metal beads/pellets, dried beans or poly pellets. You can add these inside the shell directly together with the polyester fibre fill stuffing or you can place them into a small organza/cotton bag.

R21: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R22: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R23: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R24: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R25: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R26: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R27: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R28: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R29: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R30: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Antennae

Crochet from the top of the antenna downwards.

Crochet 2 antennae using the pattern below:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3-R4 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

Start stuffing

R5: INV DEC all around {6}

R6-R12 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {6}

FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing.

How to Crochet the Bow

R1: Chain 5 STs

R2: 4xTC into the 1^st CH ST of R1

R3: Chain 4 STs and SL ST into the 1^st CH ST of R1

R4: Chain 4 STs

R5: 4xTC into the 1^st CH ST of R1

R6: Chain 4 STs and SL ST into the 1^st CH ST of R1

FO and wrap the yarn tail around the centre of the bow several times. Tie a knot with both yarn tails on the back of the bow and weave the yarn ends in.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Snail Softie

Antennae: Pin the antennae to the head first making sure that they look symmetrical from the front and the side. You can now sew them to the head. I attached them between R3 and R4 of the head.

Shell: Pin the shell to the body first making sure that the shell is placed in the centre of the body when looking from the front and back. Your snail should be able to sit upright if you added the heavy stuffing inside the shell. Start sewing from the back of the snail’s neck downwards.

Bow and mouth embroidery: You can sew the bow to the neck and embroider the mouth using a long piece of black thread yarn.

You have now finished your crochet animal! And if you enjoyed the easy assembly then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns