Free Crochet Snowman Pattern

Free Crochet Snowman Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used for this free crochet snowman pattern:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 01 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of red yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 90 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 60 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of orange yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 77 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, long piece of black thread yarn for mouth embroidery, white pom pom

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 8mm safety eyes, two black buttons

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Snowman Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet snowman pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– FPDC: yarn over, slip your hook behind the post of the next stitch, yarn over, pull your hook from behind the post and complete DC

– BPDC: yarn over, now go from behind of your work and slip your hook in front of the post of the next stitch, yarn over, pull your hook through and complete DC

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: triple crochet stitch

– CH: chain stitch

– SL: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Snowman Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet snowman pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Hat

Crochet from the tip of the hat towards the hem.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in each ST around {15}

R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}

R8: SC in each ST around {18}

R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R10: SC in each ST around {21}

R11: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {24}

R12: SC in each ST around {24}

R13: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R14: SC in each ST around {27}

R15: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {30}

R16: SC in each ST around {30}

R17: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}

R18: SC in each ST around {33}

R19: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {36}

R20: SC in each ST around {36}

R21: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3 {39}

R22: SC in each ST around {39}

R23: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {42}

R24: SC in each ST around {42}

R25: (SC in next 13 ST, INC) x 3 {45}

R26: SC in each ST around {45}

R27: SC in next 7 ST, INC, (SC in next 14 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 7 ST {48}

R28: SC in each ST around {48}

R29: (SC in next 15 ST, INC) x 3 {51}

R30: SC in each ST around {51}

R31: SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 16 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 8 ST {54}

R32: SC in each ST around {54}

R33: (SC in next 17 ST, INC) x 3 {57}

R34: SC in each ST around {57}

R35: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 18 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 9 ST {60}

R36: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R37: SC in each ST around {66}

R38: SC in each ST around but SL ST into last ST {66 incl SL ST}

R39: Chain 3 STs, DC in each ST around, SL ST into the top ST of the chain you made at the beginning of this round {66}

R40: Chain 3 STs, 1x FPDC (Pic HA2), 1x BPDC (Pic HA3), continue all the way round taking turns between FPDC and BPDC, SL ST into the top ST of the chain you made at the beginning of this round {66}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the hat.

To finish the hat, sew a small white pom pom to the tip of the hat.

How to Crochet the Nose

Crochet from the tip of the nose.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: SC in each ST around {6}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R4: SC in each ST around {9}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing. Stuff well.

How to Crochet the Scarf

Crochet in rows.

R1: Chain 8 STs

R2: SC in 7 STs (BLO) starting from the 2^nd CH from the hook {7}

R3: Turn your work, chain 1 ST, SC in 7 STs (BLO) starting from the 2^nd CH from the hook {7}

R4: Turn your work, chain 1 ST, SC in 7 STs (BLO) starting from the 2^nd CH from the hook {7}

Continue this way until you have achieved the desired length of the scarf, FO and weave the yarn ends in.

My scarf is 33cm / 13 inches long.

How to Crochet the Head and Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R13: SC in each ST around {72}

R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R15: SC in each ST around {78}

R16: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {84}

R17-R24 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {84}

Start stuffing the body gradually

R25: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {78} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R26: SC in each ST around {78}

R27: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R28: SC in each ST around {72}

R29: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R30: SC in each ST around {66}

R31: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R32: SC in each ST around {60}

R33: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R34: SC in each ST around {54}

R35: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R36: SC in each ST around {48}

R37: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R38: SC in each ST around {42}

R39: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R40: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R41: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R42: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R43: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R44: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R45: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R46: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R47: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R48: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R49-R57 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R58: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R59: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R60: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R61: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R62: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R54 and R55 leaving 10 stitches in between the eyes

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in

– you can now insert the safety eyes and put the safety backs on

R63: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R64: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R65: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R66: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R67: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet the mitten first and then continue with the arm.

Mitten:

Crochet the thumb and the rest of the fingers as two separate parts to start with. You will then join them together at a later stage.

Thumb:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {8}

R3: SC in each ST around {8}

FO and weave the yarn end in.

Fingers:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4-R7 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

Do not FO or cut off the yarn as you will continue to crochet R8 to join the thumb and the fingers together.

To join the two parts together continue to crochet R8 of the fingers:

R8: SC in next 9 ST of the fingers, pull a short string through the next ST to use as a marker; you will refer to it at a later stage, you will now join the fingers to the thumb – insert your hook into any stitch of the thumb (Pic M1), SC in next 8 ST (thumb only), you will now connect the thumb back to the fingers – insert your hook into the stitch you pulled the string through on the fingers (Pic M2), SC in next 9 ST (fingers only) {26}

R9: SC in each ST around {26}

R10: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST {24}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R13: INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST {21}

R14: SC in next 20 ST, SL ST into last ST {21 incl SL ST}

Stuff the mitten well and continue to stuff the arm gradually

Change yarn to white colour

R15: Chain 1 ST, SC in next 21 ST – BLO {21}

Continue to crochet in spiral again

R16: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R23-R25 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R30: SC in each ST around {14}

R31: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.

Now go back to R15, attach red yarn to the first ST of R15 and SC in each ST around – FLO (Pic M3 & M4), FO and weave the yarn end in.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Snowman Softie

Hat: Pin the hat to the head first making sure that it fits tight. Sew the hat to the head. You will need to bend the back of the hat and stitch it to the back or side of the head to stay in shape.

Nose: Pin the nose to the head first making sure that it is centered between the eyes. Sew the nose to the head and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the nose between R50 and R54 of the head.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed them between R31 and R37 of the body.

Mouth embroidery and cheeks: Embroider the mouth using a long piece of black thread yarn – I embroidered the mouth between R47 and R50 with 7 STs in between the corners of the mouth. Paint the cheeks with a crayon or a make-up blush.

Buttons and scarf: Sew a couple of black buttons onto the belly and tie the scarf around the neck.

You have now finished your crochet toy. I hope you found my free snowman crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.