With Christmas just around the corner, I could’t help myself and had to crochet Rudolf the Reindeer as without him it simply wouldn’t be Christmas! 🙂 This Amigurumi reindeer will bring the holiday spirit to your homes and will make a perfect gift for your loved ones! This free crochet reindeer pattern is guaranteed to spark the festive feeling in you and will have you decking the halls in no time! 🙂

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 25.5cm / 10 inches

Finished size from tip of the antlers to toes: 34.5cm / 13.5 inches

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used for this free crochet reindeer pattern:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of beige yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of dark brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 70 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

For the hairy bands on arms and legs:

– Light Worsted #3 = DK

– 100% polyester

– 1x ball of cream yarn – Stylecraft Eskimo eyelash yarn – colour 5211 – (50g/90m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of red sport or light worsted yarn for nose embroidery, a long piece of black thread yarn for mouth embroidery

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet reindeer pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: triple crochet stitch

– CH: chain stitch

– SL: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet reindeer pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

Take advantage of this AMAZING OFFER! Open an Etsy shop using this link and list your first 40 items FREE!

How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}

R6: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R7: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {24}

R8-R12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R13: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R14: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R15: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff the ears; fold the bottom of each ear in half and sew it together before attaching the ears to the head.

How to Crochet the Antlers

Crochet as two separate parts to start with; you will then join them together at a later stage.

Smaller part:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3-R7 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

FO and weave the yarn end in, stuff well.

Bigger part:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3-R9 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

Do not FO or cut off the yarn as you will continue to crochet R10 to join the two parts together, stuff well.

To join the two parts together continue to crochet R10 of the bigger part:

R10:

– SC in next 6 ST of the bigger part

– pull a short string through the next ST to use as a marker; you will refer to it at a later stage (Pic A1)

– you will now join the two parts together – insert your hook into any stitch of the smaller part (Pic A2)

– SC in next 12 ST (small part only)

– you will now connect the smaller part back to the bigger part – insert your hook into the stitch you pulled the string through on the bigger part (Pic A3)

– SC in next 6 ST (bigger part only) {24}

R11: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R12: SC in each ST around {18}

R13: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R14-R18 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing, stuff well.

If you notice a small hole in the joint of the two parts then simply stitch this together using a piece of the same yarn and a needle.

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the front to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10-R16 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R17: (SC in next 16 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {51}

Change yarn to beige colour

R18: SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {57}

R19: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {63}

R20: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {69}

R21: SC in next 11 ST, INC, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {75}

R22: INC, SC in next 33 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 29 ST {78}

R23-R31 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {78} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R22 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R32: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R33: SC in each ST around {72}

R34: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R35: SC in each ST around {66}

R36: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R37: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R38: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R39: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R22 and R23

– first eye – count 30 stitches from your marker at the start of R22 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– second eye – count 50 stitches from your marker at the start of R22 and place the eye between ST50 and ST51

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in the stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into the stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R41

Continue to stuff gradually.

R41: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R42: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R43: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R44: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R45: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: SC in each ST around {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R15: SC in each ST around {78}

R16: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {84}

R17-R23 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {84}

R24: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {78}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R27: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R30: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

You can now start stuffing the body.

R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R33: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R34: SC in each ST around {60}

R35: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R36: SC in each ST around {54}

R37: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R40: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R41-R42 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R43: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R44-R45 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R46: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R47: SC in each ST around {30}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: SC in each ST around – BLO {36}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R10: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R11-R13 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to cream colour.

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around – BLO {24}

Change yarn to beige colour.

R17: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm.

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

You can now stop stuffing the arm.

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R31: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R32: SC in each ST around {15}

R33: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R34: SC in each ST around {14}

R35: SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

You can now crochet the hairy band using your eyelash yarn:

– Attach the yarn to the first ST in R15 of the arm and SC into each front loop of R15-R16

– FO and weave yarn ends in

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: SC in each ST around – BLO {48}

R10: SC in each ST around {48}

R11: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R12: SC in each ST around {42}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R14: SC in each ST around {36}

R15: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R16: SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to cream colour.

R17: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around – BLO {27}

You can now start stuffing the leg.

Change yarn to beige colour.

R20: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R21: SC in each ST around {24}

R22: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R25: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R26-R28 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg.

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R32: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R33-R34 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R35: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R36: SC in each ST around {15}

R37: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

You can now crochet the hairy band using your eyelash yarn:

– Attach the yarn to the first ST in R18 of the leg and SC into each front loop of R18-R19

– FO and weave yarn ends in

How to Crochet the Tail

Crochet the inside and outside of the tail as two separate circles; you will then crochet the circles together.

For both the inside and outside of the tail:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6 (inside of the tail only): SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36} – FO and weave the yarn end in

R6 (outside of the tail only): SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7 (outside of the tail only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {36} – don’t cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet with it when joining the circles together

To join the two circles of the tail together:

Place the inside and outside circle on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each circle is on the inside.

R1: You will need to crochet the two circles together (Pic T1,T3):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R7 of the outside circle (beige one)

– slip your hook through the next ST of the outside circle (beige one)

– and then slip your hook through any ST of the inside circle (cream one)

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each circle together all the way round {36}

To shape the tail, fold the tail in half and then stitch or crochet 5STs on one side together and leave the other side open (Pic T5, T6).

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Assembly

Ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R30 and R33.

Antlers: Pin the antlers to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the antlers to the head, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the antlers between R31 and R35.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R38 and R44 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R10 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit your toy up to make sure the tail is not placed too low or too high. Sew the tail to the body. I placed the tail between R9 and R17 of the body.

Nose and mouth embroidery: You can embroider the nose using a long piece of red sport or light worsted yarn. First mark the corners of the nose with pins and then outline the shape of the nose with the yarn. You can then fill in the nose. I embroidered the nose between R6 and R10 of the head.

To embroider the mouth, use a long piece of black thread yarn.

Free Crochet Reindeer Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet reindeer pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the reindeer!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Monkey Pattern
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern
Free Crochet Snowman Pattern