Free Crochet Llama Pattern: Low-Sew Amigurumi Llama

Are you a llama lover on the hunt for an adorable Amigurumi llama pattern? Look no further! This free crochet llama pattern is not only easy to follow but it’s a fun crochet project for those not keen on sewing their crochet toys together. Assembly is a breeze with only the ears and head needing to be sewn on. Plus, with my detailed video tutorials, you’ll have no trouble bringing your crocheted llama to life!

This free crochet pattern was a huge hit in my recent Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along, with my followers raving about their finished toys. It was such a joy to see the creative hairstyles our community came up with for their llamas! So if you need some inspiration, then be sure to check out the photos.

How to Crochet a Llama

• This free crochet llama pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
• I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
• Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
• This free llama crochet pattern requires minimal sewing at assembly. The arms, legs and tail are attached to the body without sewing. You will only need to sew on the ears and the head to the body.
• The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
• Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Free Crochet Llama Pattern

Pattern Notes

Difficulty level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge but also suitable for an advanced beginner

Sewing level: low-sew, all you need to sew on is the ears and the head to the body

Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

• when seated: 9.5 inches (24 cm)
• when standing: 13.5 inches (34.5 cm)

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

This free crochet llama pattern will work great with the below yarns.

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)

Yarn I used for this Amigurumi llama pattern:

• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
• 2x skein of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 86 – (50g/160m)
• 1x skein of mustard yellow yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 84 – (50g/160m)
• 1x skein of multicolored yarn – YarnArt Jeans Crazy – color 7206 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

• a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery (about 20 inches / 51 cm)
• a long piece of black Sport/DK yarn for nose and mouth embroidery (about 20 inches / 51 cm)
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 12 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This free crochet llama pattern is written using US crochet terms.

MR: magic ring (magic circle)

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

CH: chain

BLO: back loop only

FLO: front loop only

FL ST: front loop stitch

BBO: back bump only/third loop only

WL: whole loop / both loops

INC/SC INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

INV DEC in BLO: invisible decrease in back loop only (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Special Stitches

INV DEC = invisible decrease:

• insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch
• then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
• yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
• yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

INV DEC in BLO = invisible decrease in back loop only:

• insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch
• then insert your hook into the back loop of the following stitch but go in from the back (from behind of the stitch)
• yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
• yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Llama Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free Amigurumi pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Ears

Construction: crochet from the top of the ear downwards

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}

R6-R11 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R12: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R13: SC in each ST around {15}

R14: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {12}

R15: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing, do not stuff the ears.

Pinch the bottom of the ear in half and use the long tail to sew it together.

Keep the yarn tail for sewing the ears to the head at the assembly stage.

Head

Construction: crochet from the front of the head towards the back of the head

Start with mustard yellow yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

Change yarn to cream color

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R8: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 3 {33}

R9-R12 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {33}

R13: SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 19 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs {54}

R14: SC in each ST around {54}

R15: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R16: SC in each ST around {60} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R16 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R17: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R18-R20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R21: WL – SC in next 31 STs, BLO – SC in next 5 STs, WL – SC in next 30 STs {66} – please note that WL means you will crochet into the whole loop as you would normally. I am using this abbreviation to make it extra clear, which stitches will be worked into back loop only (BLO) and which ones into the whole loop (WL).

R22-R25 (4 rounds): WL – SC in next 30 STs, BLO – SC in next 7 STs, WL – SC in next 29 STs {66}

R26: WL – (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 2, WL – SC in next 9 STs, BLO – DEC (this is standard decrease), BLO – SC in next 3 STs, WL – SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, WL – (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 2 {60}

R27: SC in each ST around {60}

R28: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R29: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R30: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R31: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R16 and R17:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes (Pic 1)

– 1st eye – count 18 STs from your stitch marker at the start of R16 and place the eye between ST18 and ST19

– 2nd eye – count 41 STs from your stitch marker at the start of R16 and place the eye between ST41 and ST42

– you can now insert the safety eyes to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic 2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi

– take a long piece of cream yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic 3)

– remove the right eye and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic 4)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic 5)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic 6)

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R32

– continue to stuff head gradually

R32: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R33: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R34: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R35: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R36: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Nose, Mouth and Eye Lash Embroidery

Nose and mouth embroidery (Pic 7):

• embroider the nose and mouth using a long piece of black yarn
• mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering
• I embroidered the nose so the top starts between R4 and R5 with 5 stitches in between. And the middle of the nose is pulled through the magic ring.
• the mouth is embroidered between R2 and R3

Eye lash embroidery (Pic 8):

Use black thread yarn to embroider the eye lashes…llamas have beautiful long eye lashes so don’t be afraid to make the lashes stand out a bit.

How to Crochet the Llama Hair

Yarn color: you can either use cream yarn or you can use the multicolored yarn for a bit of fun

Construction: you will create the hair by crocheting loops into the exposed front loops on the top of the head.

Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet more chains (e.g. 12 instead of 10) otherwise the loops may be too short

Step 1: create a slip knot on your hook using the yarn of your choice

Step 2: insert your hook into the first front loop ST in R20 (Pic 9) and SC once, chain 10 (Pic 10) and SC into next front loop ST – this is your first loop of the hair created (Pic 11)

Step 3: CH 10, SC into FL of next ST – this is second loop of the hair created

Step 4: CH 10, SC into FL of next ST and repeat until you reach the last front loop in R20 (Pic 12)

Step 5: once you get to the end of the front loops in R20, don’t cut the yarn and just simply continue to crochet into the front loops in the next row

Step 6: continue to crochet the hair into all of the front loops on the top of the head and then weave the yarn ends in (Pic 13 & 14)

Arms (Front Legs)

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

Start with mustard yellow yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: crochet this round loosely because it will be easier to crochet into the BBO in R7 – SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

INV FO and weave the yarn tail in – watch this video tutorial on How to fasten off in crochet: invisible finish

R7: you will crochet this round into BBO – watch this video tutorial on How to single crochet into back bump

• create a slip knot on your hook using the mustard yellow yarn
• insert your hook into the back bump of the second ST in the latest round and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round)
• SC all the way round in BBO {36} – use slightly smaller hook if you find it difficult to insert it into the back bump

Continue to crochet in a continous round again

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R10: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to cream color

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R17: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R23: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

INV FO and weave the yarn tail in

You will now start crocheting the jumper sleeve

Change yarn to multicolored yarn

R24: you will crochet this round into BLO (note this is back loop not back bump)

• create a slip knot on your hook using the multicolored yarn
• insert your hook into the back loop of the second ST in the latest round and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round)
• SC all the way round in BLO {15}

Continue to crochet in a continous round again

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

R28-R31 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R32: SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm {6}

Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

You will now go back to R23 and will crochet a sleeve hem into the front loops using HDC stitches:

• hold the arm upside down so the magic ring you started with is facing upwards
• create a slip knot on your hook using the multicolored yarn
• insert your hook into the front loop of the first ST in R23 (Pic 15)
• SC and CH 1 (this will count as your first HDC in this round) (Pic 16)
• HDC all the way round in FLO
• SL ST into the top of the first HDC (Pic 17)
• FO and weave both yarn tails in
• you will notice that the row of HDC stitches you just created will naturally roll upwards to create a nice hem (Pic 18)

Back Legs

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards

Start with mustard yellow yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: crochet this round loosely – (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

INV FO and wave the yarn tail in

R8: you will crochet this round into BBO:

• create a slip knot on your hook using the mustard yellow yarn
• insert your hook into the back bump of the second ST in the latest round and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round)
• SC all the way round in BBO {42}

Continue to crochet in a continous round again

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R12: SC in each ST around {36}

R13: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to cream color

R16: SC in each ST around {30}

R17: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R20: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R23: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}

R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 15 STs {16}

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R32: SC the opening together to close the leg {7}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Tail

Construction: crochet from the end of the tail towards the body

R1: Chain 4 STs {4} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R4 – the video starts with a different number of chains but the technique is the same

R2: SC in next 3 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next ST, INC in last ST {8}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST, INC in last 2 STs {14}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R5: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {26}

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R8: (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R9-R11 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R12: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 2 {14}

R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

Stuff up to R12 so the end of the tail is flat

R15: SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the tail {6}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Body

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top; attach legs, tail and arms as you crochet along

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: you will attach the legs to the body in this round (Pic 21 & 22) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach legs to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs

– attach the first leg: SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs

– SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs

– attach the second leg: SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs

– SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R13: (SC in next 11 STs, INC) x 6 {78}

R14: SC in each ST around {78}

R15: you will start attaching the tail to the body towards the end of this round (Pic 23 & 24) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach a tail to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 74 STs

– SC in next 4 STs while starting to attach the tail {78}

R16: you will finish attaching the tail to the body in this round

– SC in next 2 STs while attaching the remainder of the tail

– SC in next 76 STs {78}

R17-R19 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

INV FO and weave the yarn tail in

You will now start crocheting the jumper

Change yarn to the multicolored one

R20: you will crochet this round into BLO (note this is back loop not back bump)

• create a slip knot on your hook using the multicolored yarn
• insert your hook into the back loop of the second ST in the latest round and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round) – please pay extra attention to where you are inserting your hook. It is important that you indeed insert your hook into the 2nd ST of R19. You will notice this will shift the beginning of the round by one stitch as well. It is important to follow these steps so when you are attaching the arms to the body later on they will allign nicely with the legs and tail.
• SC all the way round in BLO {78}

Continue to crochet in a continous round again

R21: (SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R24: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R25-R27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R28: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now start stuffing the body

R29: SC in each ST around {60}

R30: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R31: SC in each ST around {54}

R32: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R33: SC in each ST around {48}

R34: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R35: SC in each ST around {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: SC in each ST around {36}

R38: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R39-R40 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R41: you will attach the arms to the body in this round (Pic 25 & 26) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 7 STs

– SC in next 6 STs while attaching the first arm

– SC in next 9 STs

– SC in next 6 STs while attaching the second arm

– SC in next 2 STs {30}

R42: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 STs {27}

R43: SC in each ST around {27}

R44: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R45: SC in each ST around {24}

INV FO and weave the yarn tail in

Change yarn to cream color to finish off the neck

R46: you will crochet this round into BLO (note this is back loop not back bump)

• create a slip knot on your hook using the cream yarn
• insert your hook into the back loop of the second ST in the latest round and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round)
• SC all the way round in BLO {24}

Continue to crochet in a continous round again

R47-R48 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing and stuff well

You will now go back to R19 & R45 and will crochet into the front loops using HDC stitches. This will create a nice decorative hem on the jumper.

• when crocheting into R19, hold the body upside down so the magic ring you started with is facing upwards
• when crocheting into R45, hold the body the right way up so the neck is facing upwards

• create a slip knot on your hook using the multicolored yarn
• insert your hook into the front loop of the first ST in R19
• SC and CH 1 (this will count as your first HDC in this round)
• HDC all the way round in FLO
• SL ST into the top of the first HDC
• FO and weave both yarn tails in
• repeat the above steps for R45

How to Assemble Your Amigurumi Llama

Attaching the ears to the head: Pin the ears to the head first making sure they look symmetrical from the front and back. I attached the ears between R22 and R25 and 2 STs away from the hair on each side.

Attaching the head to the body: Pin the head to the body first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the head to the body while adding more stuffing. Adding more stuffing at this stage is important so the head doesn’t wobble.

Finishing touches – rose cheeks: To paint the rose cheeks you can either use a make-up blusher or water paint. I used a make-up blusher and just tapped the cheeks with the makeup brush ever so gently. Little goes a long way so don’t be tempted to apply too much of the blusher.

You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my free crochet llama pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the cute llama!

And if you enjoyed the easy assembly of this crochet toy then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns