When I was designing this cute Amigurumi butterfly I had an exact idea of what I would like the wings to look like. I wanted the wings to be perfect so it took me several tries but think I got there at the end! 🙂 Thankfully you don’t have to go through all that struggle because you can just simply follow the instructions in this free crochet butterfly pattern. So please give it a try and let me know what you think. 🙂

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Notes

Skill level: basic to intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – width: 16.5cm / 6.5 inches

Finished size – height: 18cm / 7 inches

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 86 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 72 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 42 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 76 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 8mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet butterfly pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Head and Body

Crochet from the top of the head towards the end of the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R14 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {42} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R10 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R10 and R11

– first eye – count 15 stitches from your marker at the start of R10 and place the eye between ST15 and ST16

– second eye – count 23 stitches from your marker at the start of R10 and place the eye between ST23 and ST24

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in

– you can now insert the safety eyes and put the safety backs on

Continue to stuff gradually making sure you add enough stuffing where the head joins the body otherwise the head will be wobbly. It can be a bit fiddly to push the stuffing into the narrow opening but it does support the head well.

R17: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R18: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R19: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R20: INV DEC all around {6}

Change yarn to purple colour

R21: INC in each ST around {12}

R22: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R23: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R24: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R25: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R26-R31 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R32: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R33: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R34: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R35: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R36: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R37: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R38: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R39: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R41-R46 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R47: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R48: SC in each ST around {36}

R49: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R50: SC in each ST around {30}

R51: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R52-R53 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R54: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R55: SC in each ST around {18}

R56: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R57: SC in each ST around {12}

R58: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}

Stuff well, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn end in.

How to Crochet the Wings

Crochet two separate wing parts and then join them together to finish the whole wing.

Smaller wing part:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: INC in each ST around {18}

R5: SC in each ST around {18}

R6: (SC in next 7 ST, 2x INC) x 2 {22}

R7: (SC in next 9 ST, 2x INC) x 2 {26}

R8: SC in each ST around {26}

R9: SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 15 ST {27}

R10: SC in next 11 ST, INC, SC in next 13 ST, pull a short string through the next ST to use as a marker; you will refer to it when joining the wing parts; leave the last 2 STs undone {26}

FO and weave the yarn end in.

Bigger wing part:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 13 ST, 2x INC) x 2 {34}

R7: (SC in next 16 ST, INC) x 2 {36}

R8: (SC in next 17 ST, INC) x 2 {38}

R9: (SC in next 18 ST, INC) x 2 {40}

R10: (SC in next 19 ST, INC) x 2 {42}

R11: (SC in next 20 ST, INC) x 2 {44}

R12-R15 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {44}, pull a short string through ST20 in R15 to use as a marker; you will refer to it when joining the wing parts

Do not FO or cut off the yarn as you will continue to crochet R16 to join the two wing parts together.

To join the wing parts together continue to crochet R16 of the bigger wing part:

R16: SC in next 19 ST of the bigger part, you will now join the bigger part to the smaller part – insert your hook into the stitch that you pulled the string through on the smaller part (Pic W1), SC in next 28 ST, you will now connect the smaller part back to the bigger part – insert your hook into the stitch you pulled the string through on the bigger part (Pic W4), SC in next 22 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {71}

R17: SC in next 18 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 27 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 22 ST {69}

R18: SC in next 17 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 17 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {65}

R19: SC in next 17 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST, INV DEC {61}

R20: SC in next 17 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST, INV DEC {57}

R21: SC in next 16 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {54}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {50}

R23: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {45}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 3 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {40}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 2 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC {34}

R26: SC in next 13 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST, INV DEC {31}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC {27}

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC {23}

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, 2x INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC {19}

SC the opening together to close the wing – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

How to Crochet the Wing Dots

Start by crocheting a circle using double crochet stitches; each circle will be connected with a slip stitch so you will not crochet in a spiral.

Large wing dots:

R1: MR – chain 2 ST, 11 x DC into MR, SL into 1^st DC ST of R1 – usually you would slip stitch into the top ST of the chain but I think the joint looks neater this way {12 incl. the chain}

Change yarn to pink colour

R2: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R1, 2x DC in each of the remaining STs, SL into 1^st DC ST of R2  {24 incl. the chain}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

Small wing dots:

R1: MR – chain 2 ST, 11 x DC into the ring, SL into 1^st DC ST of R1 {12 incl. the chain}

Change yarn to pink colour

R2: In this round you will crochet the decorative hem – chain 1 ST, SL into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R1, (chain 1 ST and SL into next ST) x repeat all around

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

How to Crochet the Antennae

R1: MR – 9 x SC into the ring {9}

R2: SL ST into 1^st ST of R1, chain 7 STs, SC in 6 STs starting from 2^nd CH from the hook (go through back bump of each CH as well), SL ST into the ST at the base of the chain

FO and weave the yarn ends in; leaving one yarn end for sewing.

How to Crochet the Belt

R1: Chain 19 STs {19}

Wrap the chain around the waist, sew the ends together and weave yarn ends in.

You may need to adjust the number of STs in the chain depending on how well you stuffed the waist.

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Assembly:

Decorating the wings: Sew the large dots on the bigger part of the wings and the small dots on the smaller part.

Body and wings: Pin the wings to the back of the body first making sure that they look symmetrical from the front and back. You will need to sew them to the body as outlined in the photo below otherwise the wings will be too floppy.

Head and antennae: Pin the antennae to the head first making sure they look symmetrical from the front and then sew them to the head. I placed the antennae between R3 and R5.

Eye lash embroidery: You can embroider the eye lashes using a long piece of black thread yarn.

Free Crochet Butterfly Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy. I hope you found my free crochet butterfly pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the butterfly!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Cat Pattern
Free Crochet Caterpillar Pattern
Free Crochet Turtle Pattern