Free Crochet Pig Pattern

You will just love this adorable Amigurumi pig! His name is Perky and he has the cutest chubby cheeks and curly tail. He is a playful and sensitive chap that likes lots of cuddles and will make a perfect friend for your dearest ones. This free crochet pig pattern is somewhat easier than the other farm animal patterns on my blog as you crochet the head and body in one piece and there is no need to sculpt the eyes.

Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pig Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Finished size from ears to toes: 33cm / 13 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Free Crochet Pig Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of light pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 18 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of dark pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 36 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: pink ribbon (plain or with a pattern of your choice) – 10mm wide, 50cm long / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2 & 4mm = G/6, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Free Crochet Pig Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets six times

(…..) x 3: repeat the pattern inside the brackets three times

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Pig Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Starting from the top of the ear towards the head.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: SC in each ST around {6}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in each ST around {15}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R9-R13 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {21}

How to Crochet the Snout

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Starting from the centre of the snout.

R1: Chain 7 ST {7} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in last ST {14}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in last 2 ST {20}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {26}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {32}

R6: SC in each ST around, change yarn to light pink after 7th ST {32}

R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {32}

R9: SC in next 9 ST (you will not complete the whole round) and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {32}

Snout embroidery:

You can choose to embroider the snout nostrils at this stage or after the snout is attached to the head – embroider with light pink yarn – you can make the nostrils as big or as small as you wish.

How to Crochet the Head

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Head and body are made in one piece starting from the top of the head down to the bottom of the body.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10-R17 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {54} – leave your marker in at the start of R15 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R18: INC in next 7 ST, SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 7 ST, SC in next 33 ST – this will create the ‘chubby cheeks’ look {68}

R19-R22 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {68}

R23-R24: SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC,
SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC – this INV DEC ST will consist of the last ST in R23 and the first ST in R24 (Pic H1). Once you have finished this INV DEC ST then place your marker on the right hand side of this INV DEC ST so basically you are shifting the round by one ST in order to make the cheeks look symmetrical (Pic H2). Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

You can now continue with R24 – SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST {54}

R25: SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the head

R26: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R27: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R28: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well

– pin the ears and the snout to the head first as it will help you to visualise the final look

– it also helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H3)

– place the eyes between rounds R15 and R16 (Pic H4)

– first eye – count 5 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST5 and ST6

– second eye – count 15 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST15 and ST16

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R15, then place the eyes symmetrically above the cheeks making sure you leave 10 stitches in between the eyes

– you can now remove the ears and snout

– remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on the eyes making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R29

R29: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R30: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R31: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18} – do not FO as you will now continue to crochet the body

Eye brow embroidery:

You can choose to embroider the eye brows at this stage, however I would recommend to do that after the ears and snout are attached to the head – embroider with dark pink yarn – I placed the eye brows between R10 and R14.

How to Crochet the Body

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Head and body are made in one piece starting from the top of the head down to the bottom of the body.

R1: Continue where you finished with R31 of the head – SC in each ST around {18}

R2: INC in each ST around {36}

R3: SC in each ST around {36}

R4: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R5: SC in each ST around {42}

R6: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R7: SC in each ST around {48}

R8: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R14: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R15-R18 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R19: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R20-R24 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R25: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

You can now start stuffing the body making sure there is enough stuffing inside the neck area so the head is nice and steady

R26: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R27: SC in each ST around {60}

R28: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R29: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R30:  SC in each ST around {48}

R31: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R32: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R33: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R34: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R35: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R36: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R37: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Arms

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R7 into back loop of each ST {36}

R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change your yarn to light pink

R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R16: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R19: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R20-R23 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R30: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R31: SC in each ST around {15}

R32: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R33: SC in each ST around {14}

R34: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}

R35: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {13}

How to Crochet the Legs

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R8 into back loop of each ST {42}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R11: SC in each ST around {36}

R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

Change your yarn to light pink

R15: SC in each ST around {30}

R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R26: SC in each ST around {17}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R28: SC in each ST around {16}

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R30: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {15}

How to Shape the Hooves

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to shape animal hooves for Amigurumi

Step 1: take a long piece of light pink yarn and thread your needle

Step 2: place the needle in the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof

Step 3: pull the needle through the hoof and come out in between the rows where you changed the colour of the yarn

Step 4: pull all the way through leaving a yarn tail at the bottom of the hoof

Step 5: repeat Step 2 and Step 3 again (Pic T3)

Step 6: pull all the way through

Step 7: you will be left with two yarn tails – one coming out of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof and the other tail coming out from the top of the hoof (Pic T4); tie a knot close to the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof (Pic T5)

Step 8: weave both yarn tails in tightly through the centre of the magic ring, while pulling the knot inside the hoof with them (Pic T6)

How to Crochet the Tail

Hook size: 4mm = G/6

Double your yarn for chunkier look; the tail will start curling naturally as you crochet along.

R1: Chain 10 ST {10}

R2: Chain another 3 ST, 2 x DC in 4th ST from the hook, 2 x DC in next ST, 3 x DC in next ST, 2 x DC in next ST, 3 x DC in next ST, 2 x DC in next ST, 3 x DC in next ST, 2 x DC in next ST, 3 x DC in next ST, 2 x DC in next ST and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {25}

How to Assemble your Crochet Pig Softie

Head and ears: First pin your ears to the head to make sure they are symmetrical and then sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R4 and R14.

Head and snout: Pin the snout to the head first making sure that the snout is in the centre in between the cheeks and eyes; also check that you are happy with the position of the snout from the profile. Sew the snout to the head not forgetting to stuff it before you complete sewing.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the arms to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the arms between R3 and R10 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below. Sew the legs to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the legs between R30 and R35 of the body.

Tail: First weave one of the yarn tails in and keep the longer yarn tail for sewing. Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit up your toy to make sure the tail is not placed too low. Sew the tail to the body. I placed the tail between R21 and R25 of the body.

You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free pig crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.