When I was designing this Amigurumi sloth lady, I really wanted her to stand out from the crowd of all the brown and beige sloths out there. So you can imagine my excitement when I saw this rich purple yarn. I just knew it would be perfect for my free crochet sloth pattern! I also had a bit of fun with this cute sloth and made her look extra foxy with colourful eye shadows and matching nail polish. 🙂
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when seated: 20cm / 8 inches
Finished size from head to claws: 30cm / 12 inches
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet sloth pattern:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 50 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 74 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of multi-coloured yarn – YarnArt Jeans Tropical – colour 622 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE
or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black yarn for nose and mouth embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet sloth pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet sloth pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Eye Patches
Crochet as an oval and finish each round with a slip stitch, i.e. you will not crochet in a continuous spiral on this occasion.
R1: Chain 10 ST {10}
R2: SC in 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 7 ST, INC in last ST, SL ST into first ST of R2 {20 excl the SL ST}
R3: Chain 1x ST, INC in first ST – this is the same ST you slip stitched into at the end of R2, SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 7 ST, INC in last 2 ST, SL ST into first ST of R3 {26 excl the SL ST}
R4: Chain 1x ST, SC in first ST – this is the same ST you slip stitched into at the end of R3, INC, SC in next 7 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 7 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2, SL ST into first ST of R4 {32 excl the SL ST}
FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet from the front to the back of the head.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in each ST around {42}
R9: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R9 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R11: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 9 ST {60}
R12: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 9 ST {66}
R13: SC in next 11 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 9 ST {72}
R14: SC in each ST around {72}
Change yarn to purple colour.
R15: SC in each ST around – BLO {72}
R16: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R17-R23 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R24: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R25: SC in each ST around {72}
R26: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R27: SC in each ST around {66}
R28: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R29: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R31: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R32: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– place the safety eyes between rounds R9 and R10
– first eye – count 15 stitches from your marker at the start of R9 and place the eye between ST15 and ST16
– second eye – count 32 stitches from your marker at the start of R9 and place the eye between ST32 and ST33
– you can now insert the safety eyes together with the patches but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H3)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye and the patch; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H4)
– remove the right eye and the patch; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole (Pic H5); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H6)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H8)
– place the eyes back into the patches and then into the holes in the head; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R33 – you will sew on the eye patches once the head is completed
– continue to stuff the head as you go along
R33: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R34: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R35: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R36: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R37: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
You can now sew on the eye patches. I attached them between R5 and R18 at about 45° angle.
How to Crochet the Body
Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in each ST around {66}
R13: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R14-R19 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R20: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
You can now start stuffing the body.
R25-R27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R28: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R29-R31 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R32: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R33-R35 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R36: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R37: SC in each ST around {42}
R38: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R39: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R40: SC in each ST around {30}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing; stuff well.
How to Crochet the Claws
Crochet 3 claws for each arm and leg.
Arm claws – the middle claw is one round longer:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: SC in each ST around {6}
R3: INC, SC in next 5 ST {7}
R4-R7 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {7}
R8: SC the opening together to close the claw {3}
FO and weave the yarn end in, do not stuff.
Middle claw:
R4-R8 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {7}
R9: SC the opening together to close the claw {3}
FO and weave the yarn end in, do not stuff.
Leg claws – the middle claw is one round longer:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: SC in each ST around {6}
R3: INC, SC in next 5 ST {7}
R4-R8 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {7}
R9: SC the opening together to close the claw {3}
FO and weave the yarn end in, do not stuff.
Middle claw:
R4-R9 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {7}
R10: SC the opening together to close the claw {3}
FO and weave the yarn end in, do not stuff.
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}
R7: SC in each ST around {33}
R8:
– SC in next 5 ST
– you will now attach the first claw to the next 3 STs
– insert your hook into the first ST of the claw and then 6th ST of R8 (Pic C1)
– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together
– repeat for the remaining 2 STs of the first claw
– you will now attach the middle claw to the next 3 STs
– and finally attach the last claw to the next 3 STs (Pic C6)
– SC in next 19 ST {33}
R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {33}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}
You can now start stuffing the arm.
R12: SC in each ST around {30}
R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R14: SC in each ST around {24}
R15: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R16-R19 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R20: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
You can now stop stuffing the arm.
R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R23: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R26: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R27-R29 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R30: SC in next 14 STs and then SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
To stop the claws from sticking out too much you need to sew them to the arm with a few stitches. I stitched them to R5 of the arm.
How to Crochet the Legs
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3 {39}
R8: SC in each ST around {39}
R9: SC in next 5 ST, attach the claws to the next 9 ST the same way as you did for the arms, SC in next 25 ST {39}
R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {39}
R13: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {36}
You can now start stuffing the leg.
R14: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {33}
R15: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}
R16: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}
R17: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R18: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R19: SC in each ST around {21}
R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
You can now stop stuffing the leg.
R24: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R25-R30 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R31: SC in next 4 ST and then SC the opening together to close the leg
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Sew the claws to the leg with a few stitches. I stitched them to R6 of the leg.
How to Crochet the Tail
Crochet from the end of the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}
R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing, do not stuff.
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Assembly
Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.
Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R30 and R38 of the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R9 of the body.
Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body. I placed the tail between R10 and R12 of the body.
Nose and mouth embroidery: You can embroider the nose and the mouth using a long piece of black yarn. First mark the corners of the nose with pins and then outline the shape of the nose with the yarn. You can then fill in the nose and embroider the mouth.
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:
You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet sloth pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the sloth!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Snail Pattern
Free Crochet Monkey Pattern
Free Crochet Cat Pattern
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