‘Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along’ Pattern

Both patterns will work great with the below yarns:

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)

Toy #1 – you will need the below colors:

• color A – yellow, cream or even ginger/mustard yellow
• color B – orange, cream or dark yellow – pick a color that creates a nice contrast with color A

Toy #1 – yardage needed – if using Sport weight yarn (4ply #2) and a 2.5mm crochet hook (B-1):

• color A – approx 40g (128m = 140yds)
• color B – approx 9g (29m = 32yds)

Toy #2 – you will need the below colors:

• color A – darker shade of green
• color B – light brown
• color C – dark brown
• color D – dark yellow or orange
• color E – white or cream

Toy #2 – yardage needed – if using Sport weight yarn (4ply #2) and a 2.5mm crochet hook (B-1):

• color A – approx 17g (54m = 59yds)
• color B – approx 23g (74m = 81yds)
• color C – approx 12g (38m = 42yds)
• color D – approx 9g (29m = 32yds)
• color E – approx 2g (6.5m = 7yds)

Yarn I have used for both patterns:

• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
• Toy #1 – Color A (yellow yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 88 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #1 – Color B (orange yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 35 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #2 – Color A (green yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 52 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #2 – Color B (beige yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 07 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #2 – Color C (dark brown yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 70 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #2 – Color D (orange yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 35 – (50g/160m)
• Toy #2 – Color E (white yarn) – YarnArt Jeans – color 62 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Other materials needed:

• some black thread embroidery yarn: approx 1m = 1yds
• some white yarn: approx 1m = 1yds
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 10 mm safety eyes (2 pairs if making both toys) if using Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 12 mm safety eyes (2 pairs if making both toys) if using Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3) or Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring

– ST: stitch

– SL ST: slip stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– CH: chain

– FL ST: front loop stitch

– BLO: back loop only

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

– FO: fasten off

– INV FO: invisible fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Pattern Part 1 – Now Available

Hi everyone, I’m so excited that we can finally make a start on our next crochet along! This time, the “mystery” part of the crochet along will be easier to guess because you’ll probably work out what we’re making fairly early on! But I wanted to try something new and bring a slightly different style of project to this CAL.

And as always please keep sharing photos of your work in progress in our Cuddly Stitches Community. 🙂 I can’t wait to see them! 🙂

Part 1 is the same for both toys, just different colours:

• Toy #1 – use colour A
• Toy #2 – use colour C

Number of pieces: make two for each toy

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: SC in each ST around {12}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R5: SC in each ST around {18}

R6: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R7-R14 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R15: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R18: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R19: SC in each ST around {15}

R20: SC the opening together to close the piece, do not stuff {7} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Here is what your Part 1 should look like.

Have a look at the amazing photos shared by our Community. Simply scroll to the side to view them all.

Pattern Part 2 – Now Available

We’ve had such a fantastic start to this crochet along and I couldn’t be more excited to have so many of you joining in. The photos you’ve been sharing are amazing so keep them coming – I love seeing every single one of them! 🙂

Part 2 is a little more challenging, but I promise it’s the only tricky bit of the project. Once you’ve completed this part, the rest will be plain sailing! 🙂

Also, Part 2 is different for each toy so please pay attention to which pattern is for which toy. 🙂

Toy #1 Pattern

Toy #1 Pattern – consists of 3 sections:

• Section 1 – make 3 pieces
• Section 2 – join the 3 pieces together
• Section 3 – build upwards from section 2

Yarn color for all 3 sections: color B

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 1

Make 3 pieces

1st piece:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {8}

R3: SC in each ST around {8}

INV FO and leave a yarn tail for sewing – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Insert a stitch marker in the first stitch of R3 as you will need to refer to it later, do not stuff at this stage.

2nd piece:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {8}

R3: SC in each ST around {8}

INV FO and leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Insert a stitch marker in the first stitch of R3 as you will need to refer to it later, do not stuff at this stage.

3rd piece:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {8}

R3: SC in each ST around {8}

Do not FO or cut the yarn off. Leave your hook in after R3.

Do not stuff at this stage

Continue with R4 as described in the Section 2.

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 2

You will now join the 3 pieces together.

Watch this video tutorial on How to join toes in Amigurumi – the final stitch count is different for each toe in this video, so follow the written pattern below. The technique stays the same.

R4: continue from where you finished with R3 in 3rd piece:

• SC in next 4 STs in 3rd toe
• insert your hook into the middle toe – the marked ST and SC, SC in next 3 STs
• insert your hook into the last toe – the marked ST and SC, SC in next 7 STs
• insert your hook back into the middle toe and SC, SC in next 3 STs
• insert your hook back into the original toe – 3rd toe and SC, SC in next 3 STs {24}
• you have now joined the toes into one round and will continue crocheting in continuous rounds from here

R5: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs {20}

You will notice you have small gaps in between the toes, you can pull the yarn tails out through these gaps and then will use these tails to sew the holes with a few stitches.

R6: SC in each ST around {20}

R7: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs {18}

Start stuffing

R8: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 5 STs – BLO, SC in next 11 STs {18}

R9: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R10: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC {12}

R11: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next 7 STs {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

You can now close the small gaps in between the toes using a yarn needle. Three or four stitches should do the trick and you can then weave the yarn ends in.

You should have 12 unworked front loop stitches on the top of the piece.

And because this may be a bit challenging for some of you, I will help you out with a photo. 🙂

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 3

You will now continue to crochet into the 12 unworked front loop stitches.

R1: hold the piece so you are facing the back of it

• insert your hook into the middle FL STs in R11, wrap a new strand of yarn around it, pull it through the FL ST and CH 1x. This will count as your first ST in this round.
• continue to SC in each of the unworked FL STs on the top of the piece to create a round {12}

And here is another image to show you what your work should look like at this stage.

R2-R3: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

You can now weave the starting yarn tail in

R4: INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs {11}

R5-R6: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {11}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 9 STs {10}

R8: SC in each ST around {10}

Stuff the piece half way up

R9: SC in next 4 STs and then SC the opening together to close the piece {4}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

And that’s it, you have done it! And now you need to make another leg as our animal needs two of them. 🙂

Toy #2 Pattern

Toy #2 Pattern – consists of 2 sections:

• Section 1 – make one piece
• Section 2 – build upwards from section 1

Yarn color for all 2 sections: color D

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 1

R1: Chain 12 STs {12} – watch this video on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R2 – the video starts with a different number of chains but the technique is the same

R2: SC in next 11 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 9 STs, INC in last ST {24}

R3: SC in each ST around {24}

R4: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs {22}

R5: SC in each ST around {22}

R6: INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs {18}

R7: SC in each ST around {18}

R8: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 5 STs – BLO, SC in next 11 STs {18}

R9: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R10: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC {12}

R11: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next 7 STs {12}

Stuff a little so the piece still stays relatively flat. Close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

You should have 12 unworked front loop stitches on the top of the piece and here is an image to show you what your work should look like at this stage.

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 2

You will now continue to crochet into the 12 unworked front loop stitches.

R1: hold the piece so you are facing the back of it

• insert your hook into the middle FL STs in R11, wrap a new strand of yarn around it, pull it through the FL ST and CH 1x. This will count as your first ST in this round.
• continue to SC in each of the unworked FL STs on the top of the piece to create a round {12}

And here is another image to show you what your work should look like at this stage.

R2-R3: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

You can now weave the starting yarn tail in

R4: INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs {11}

R5-R6: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {11}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 9 STs {10}

R8: SC in each ST around {10}

Stuff the piece half way up

R9: SC in next 4 STs and then SC the opening together to close the piece {4}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

And that’s it, you have done it! And now you need to make another leg as our animal needs two of them. 🙂

Here is what your Part 2 should look like.

Have a look at the amazing photos shared by our Community. Simply scroll to the side to view them all.

Pattern Part 3 – Now Available

You’ve all done such a wonderful job with Parts 1 and 2 – thank you for sharing your amazing photos!

Now for the exciting part…Part 3 will reveal which animals you’re creating! Many of you have already been making guesses, so let’s see if you got it right. 😊

As with the previous parts, each toy follows a slightly different pattern, so I’ll be sharing them as separate patterns.

Toy #1 Pattern

Toy #1 Pattern – consists of 2 sections:

• Section 1 – make 1 piece
• Section 2 – you will need the piece from Section 1 to complete this piece

Yarn color for Section 1: color B

Yarn color for Section 2: color A

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 1

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}

Mark the last ST of R5 with a stitch marker as you will need to refer to it later on.

INV FO, do not stuff, weave the yarn end in – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 2

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around – in BLO {12} – you will have 6 unworked front loop stitches left on the top of this piece

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 15 STs, INC) x 3 {51}

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {51} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it later

R15: SC in next 8 STs, INC, (SC in next 16 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 8 STs {54}

R16: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 9 {63}

R17: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 8, SC in next 3 STs {72}

R18: You will now begin attaching the piece you created in the previous section of the pattern (Part 3 – Toy #1 – Section 1).

And because I suspect most of you have already figured out what you’re making by now, I’m going to start calling this piece a beak to make the instructions clearer and easier to follow. 😊

You will start by attaching only one half of the beak to the head and to help you out I’m going to share some images. 🙂

• SC in next 32 STs of the head
• place the beak onto the head making sure the stitch with the stitch marker is on the right hand side
• insert your hook into the marked ST on the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• insert your hook into the next ST of the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• continue attaching the beak in the same way across the next 6 STs
• you should now have one half of the beak attached to the head with 8 STs in total
• continue to SC in next 32 STs of the head only {72}

R19: You will attach the other half of the beak to the head in this round:

• SC in next 32 STs of the head
• you need to leave one unworked stitch on the side of the beak so insert your hook into the stitch shown in the photo below, then insert your hook into the next ST on the head and SC
• insert your hook into the next ST of the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• continue attaching the beak in the same way across the next 6 STs
• you should now have the other half of the beak attached to the head with 8 STs in total
• continue to SC in next 32 STs of the head only {72}
• you should have the beak attached to the head with 1 unworked stitch on each side of the beak

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R14 and R15:

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes

– 1st eye – count first 20 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST20 and ST21

– 2nd eye – count first 30 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– check if you are happy with the look and that the beak is centered between the eyes; adjust the placement of the eyes if neccessary

– place the safety backs on and continue to crochet R22

R22: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 11, SC in next 2 STs {60}

R23: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R24: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R25: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R26: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the head

R27: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 12 {24}

R28: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Stuff the head well

Do not FO or cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet Part 4 from here.

You will now indent the eyes:

– watch this video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi – use method 2 shown in the video, but instead of sculpting from eye to eye, sculpt each eye individually by pulling it diagonally towards the back of the head – I was going to share a photo to help you out but I don’t want to share what my final piece looks like as yet so let’s see if you can follow the instructions without a photo. 🙂 If not, please let me know and I will share it.

– insert your needle into any ST on the back of the head and bring it out through a ST right next to the eye. Leave a long yarn tail at the back of the head.

– if the safety backing makes this difficult, bring the needle out slightly away from the eye, then insert it closer to the eye as shown in the video

– insert the needle into another ST next to the eye, then bring it back out through the same ST on the back of the head. Pull the yarn tight.

– repeat the previous steps until you achieve the desired indented look. Always insert and exit through the same ST on the back of the head.

– to finish, bring the needle out through the same ST on the back of the head, tie the yarn tails into a double knot, then pull the knot inside the head through the same ST.

– repeat for the other eye

– if the back of the head loses its shape after sculpting, add extra stuffing to reshape it

And that’s it for now. 🙂 Not long to go before your toy is completed! 🙂

Toy #2 Pattern

Toy #2 Pattern – consists of 2 sections:

• Section 1 – make 1 piece
• Section 2 – you will need the piece from Section 1 to complete this piece

Yarn color for Section 1: color D

Yarn color for Section 2: color A

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 1

R1: Chain 9 STs {9}

R2: SC in next 8 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 6 STs, INC in last ST {18}

R3: SC in each ST around {18}

R4: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs {16}

Mark the second last ST of R4 with a stitch marker as you will need to refer to it later on.

INV FO, do not stuff, weave the yarn end in – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 2

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around – in BLO {12} – you will have 6 unworked front loop stitches left on the top of the piece

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 15 STs, INC) x 3 {51}

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {51}

R15: SC in next 8 STs, INC, (SC in next 16 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 8 STs {54} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R15 as you will need to refer to it later

R16: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 9 {63}

R17: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 8, SC in next 3 STs {72}

R18: You will now begin attaching the piece you created in the previous section of the pattern (Part 3 – Toy #2 – Section 1).

And because I suspect most of you have already figured out what you’re making by now, I’m going to start calling this piece a beak to make the instructions clearer and easier to follow. 😊

You will start by attaching only one half of the beak to the head and to help you out I’m going to share some images. 🙂

• SC in next 32 STs of the head
• place the beak onto the head making sure the stitch with the stitch marker is on the right hand side
• insert your hook into the marked ST on the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• insert your hook into the next ST of the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• continue attaching the beak in the same way across the next 5 STs
• you should now have one half of the beak attached to the head with 7 STs in total
• continue to SC in next 33 STs of the head only {72}

R19: You will attach the other half of the beak to the head in this round:

• SC in next 32 STs of the head
• you need to leave one unworked stitch on the side of the beak so insert your hook into the stitch shown in the photo below, then insert your hook into the next ST on the head and SC
• insert your hook into the next ST of the beak and then into the next ST of the head and SC
• continue attaching the beak in the same way across the next 5 STs
• you should now have the other half of the beak attached to the head with 7 STs in total
• continue to SC in next 33 STs of the head only {72}
• you should have the beak attached to the head with 1 unworked stitch on each side of the beak

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R15 and R16:

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes

– 1st eye – count first 21 STs from the beginning of R15 and place the eye between ST21 and ST22

– 2nd eye – count first 32 STs from the beginning of R15 and place the eye between ST32 and ST33

– check if you are happy with the look and that the beak is centered between the eyes; adjust the placement of the eyes if neccessary

– place the safety backs on and continue to crochet R22

R22: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 11, SC in next 2 STs {60}

R23: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R24: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R25: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R26: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the head

R27: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 12 {24}

R28: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Stuff the head well

Do not FO or cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet Part 4 from here.

You will now indent the eyes:

– watch this video on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi – use method 2 shown in the video, but instead of sculpting from eye to eye, sculpt each eye individually by pulling it diagonally towards the back of the head – I was going to share a photo to help you out but I don’t want to share what my final piece looks like as yet so let’s see if you can follow the instructions without a photo. 🙂 If not, please let me know and I will share it.

– insert your needle into any ST on the back of the head and bring it out through a ST right next to the eye. Leave a long yarn tail at the back of the head.

– if the safety backing makes this difficult, bring the needle out slightly away from the eye, then insert it closer to the eye as shown in the video

– insert the needle into another ST next to the eye, then bring it back out through the same ST on the back of the head. Pull the yarn tight.

– repeat the previous steps until you achieve the desired indented look. Always insert and exit through the same ST on the back of the head.

– to finish, bring the needle out through the same ST on the back of the head, tie the yarn tails into a double knot, then pull the knot inside the head through the same ST.

– repeat for the other eye

– if the back of the head loses its shape after sculpting, add extra stuffing to reshape it

And that’s it for now. 🙂 Not long to go before your toy is completed! 🙂

Here is what your Part 3 should look like.

Have a look at the amazing photos shared by our Community. Simply scroll to the side to view them all.

Pattern Part 4 – Now Available

It’s time for Part 4 of the Crochet Along! And now I can finally confirm what many of you have already guessed… you were absolutely right! We are making a chicken and a duck! 🙂 🐔🦆

I’ve been absolutely loving all the photos you’ve been sharing. Seeing your creations come to life is one of my favourite parts of every crochet along and I can’t get over how adorable they all look already! 🙂

The instructions in today’s part differ between the two toys, so once again I’m publishing them as separate patterns.

If you’re a little behind, don’t worry. The final part will be released on Monday and it will cover the finishing touches, so there’s still plenty of time to catch up before completing your toys.

Toy #1 Pattern

Toy #1 Pattern consists of 1 section only today.

Yarn color to use: color A

Toy #1 Pattern – Section 1

You will now crochet the body. Continue from where you finished with the head at R28 and crochet towards the bottom of the body.

Continue crocheting with yarn color A

R29: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {24}

R30: (SC in next ST, INC) x 12 {36}

R31: SC in each ST around {36}

R32: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R33: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R34: you will attach the wings (the pieces you made in Part 1 of this CAL) to the body in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing. In this video, I attach arms to the body but the technique is the same.

• SC in next 13 STs
• attach the first wing: SC in next 7 STs
• SC in next 17 STs
• attach the second wing: SC in next 7 STs
• SC in next 4 STs {48}

Note: if the wings don’t line up neatly with the eyes and beak, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R35: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R36: SC in each ST around {54}

R37: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R40: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R41-R42 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R43: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R44-R49 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R50: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R51: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R52: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R53: INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next ST, (INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs) x 5 {48}

You should now have 6 unworked front loop stitches on the back of the body. This is where you will crochet the tail so these front loops should be roughly centred between the wings.

R54: SC in each ST around {48}

You can now start stuffing the body

R55: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R56: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R57: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R58: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R59: you will attach the legs to the body in this round using the same technique you used for attaching the wings. Ensure that when attaching the legs, the front of the foot is facing down.

• SC in next 11 STs
• attach the first leg: SC in next 4 STs
• SC in next 3 STs
• attach the second leg: SC in next 4 STs
• SC in next 2 STs {24}

Note: if the legs don’t line up neatly with the wings, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R60: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R61: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R62: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

Toy #2 Pattern

Toy #2 Pattern – consists of 2 sections:

• Section 1 – make 1 piece
• Section 2 – you will crochet the body

Yarn color for Section 1: color C

Yarn color for Section 2: color E and color B

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 1

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: SC in each ST around {12}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R5: SC in each ST around {18}

R6: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R7: SC in each ST around {24}

R8: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R9-R12 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R14: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R15: SC in each ST around {18}

R16: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R17: SC the opening together to close the piece, do not stuff {7}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Toy #2 Pattern – Section 2

You will now crochet the body. Continue from where you finished with the head at R28 and crochet towards the bottom of the body.

Change yarn to color E

R29: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {24}

R30: (SC in next ST, INC) x 12 {36}

R31: SC in each ST around {36}

Change yarn to color B

R32: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R33: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R34: you will attach the wings (the pieces you made in Part 1 of our CAL) to the body in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing. In this video, I attach arms to the body but the technique is the same.

• SC in next 13 STs
• attach the first wing: SC in next 7 STs
• SC in next 16 STs
• attach the second wing: SC in next 7 STs
• SC in next 5 STs {48}

Note: if the wings don’t line up neatly with the eyes and beak, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R35: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R36: SC in each ST around {54}

R37: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R40: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R41-R42 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R43: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R44-R49 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R50: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R51: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R52: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R53: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R54: SC in each ST around {48}

You can now start stuffing the body

R55: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R56: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R57: you will attach the tail (this is the piece you made in Section 1 of today’s Part 4) to the body in this round using the same technique you used for attaching the wings

• SC in next ST
• attach the tail: SC in next 7 STs
• SC in next 28 STs {36}
• don’t worry if the tail is floppy, you will fix this after finishing the body

Note: if the tail is not centred nicely between the wings, you may need to move it one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R58: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R59: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R60: you will attach the legs to the body in this round using the same technique you used for attaching the wings. Ensure that when attaching the legs, the front of the foot is facing down.

• SC in next 11 STs
• attach the first leg: SC in next 4 STs
• SC in next 3 STs
• attach the second leg: SC in next 4 STs
• SC in next 2 STs {24}

Note: if the legs don’t line up neatly with the wings and the tail is not centred between the legs, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R61: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R62: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R63: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and use the yarn tail to fix the floppy tail as described below.

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

You can now fix the floppy tail by attaching the top of it to the body with two or three stitches using the yarn tail you have left after closing the body. I stitched R5 of the tail to R47 of the body but you can attach it as per your preference. You can then weave the yarn tail in.

Pattern Part 5 – will be published on Monday 22nd June 2026

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Happy crocheting!