Mystery Amigurumi Pattern: Crochet Along May 2024

by | May 13, 2024

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Welcome to my Mystery Amigurumi Pattern Crochet Along starting on Monday 6th May 2024!

Hello my friends,

I have decided to have a bit of fun with my new Amigurumi pattern and publish it as a ‘crochet along’ project. If you have never heard of ‘crochet along’ before, it is often abbreviated as CAL and it means that the crochet pattern is published in several stages bit by bit. This gives you an opportunity to crochet the item along other fellow crafters and share your photos, feedback and ask for support.

 

Mystery Amigurumi 'Crochet Along' Pattern

 

‘Crochet alongs’ are very popular among crocheters so I thought it was about time to introduce it on my blog! πŸ™‚ I am also adding a bit of mystery to this ‘crochet along’ as I will not reveal upfront what you will be crocheting so the finished project will be a bit of a suprise. Although you can already guess it will either be an animal or a lovey. Haha πŸ™‚

I am also adding another element to this ‘crochet along’…wait for it…there will be a competion and the winner will win the printable PDF version of this mystery pattern. Read more about this below.

And last but not least, I will teach you some new crochet techniques and will be recording some new video tutorials to help along with this pattern so you have a lot to look forward to! πŸ™‚

Please have a read of all the details below so you are ready for action when I publish Part 1 of my pattern at 8am on Monday 6th May 2024 (EST).

 

How Will this ‘Crochet Along’ Work?

– first of all you need to purchase the yarn needed for this project and prepare all other materials and equipment needed – you can already find all this information in this post

bookmark this post or save it in your favourites using the new ‘heart’ icon in the bottom right corner of your screen

make a note of the schedule so you know when to come back to this post when another part of the pattern is published

subscribe to my Newsletter so you can be notified each time a new part of the pattern is published

join our Cuddly Stitches Community on FB to share photos, feedback and ask for support

– once you have completed each part, please do share your photos with all of us either in our Cuddly Stitches Community or on Instagram using the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft. I will pick some of the photos and will publish them (with your permission) in this post so we can all see our beautiful work in progress.

– and more importantly, have lots of fun! πŸ™‚

– oh and I almost forgot…please feel free to share this ‘crochet along’ with your family and friends…the more, the merrier!

 

Mystery Amigurumi Pattern Crochet Along

 

Competition details

As promised, there will also be a competition and the winner will receive a printable PDF version of this mystery pattern once the ‘crochet along’ has come to an end.

To enter this competion, all you have to do is to share a photo of your completed project by 8pm on Sunday 2nd June 2024 (EST). I will then pick the photo I like the most and will announce the winner on Monday 3rd June 2024. The winner will be announced in this post and on social media but don’t worry I will also contact you directly to let you know you are the lucky one! πŸ˜‰

You can share the photos in our Cuddly Stitches Community, share them on Instagram using the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft or you can also email them to info@cuddlystitchescraft.com

By entering this competition and sharing your photo, you agree to Cuddly Stitches Craft publishing your photo in this post and on social media.

 

Pin this pattern for later

Mystery Amigurumi crochet along pattern, free crochet toy pattern (2)

 

Schedule

I will publish the mystery Amigurumi crochet pattern in 6 stages and you will receive a newsletter update each time a new part of the pattern is available. So please make sure to subscribe to my Newsletter to be notified.

Part 1 – will be published at 8am on Monday 6th May 2024 (EST)

Part 2 + Part 1 photos – will be published at 8am on Friday 10th May 2024 (EST)

Part 3  + Part 2 photos – will be published at 8am on Tuesday 14th May 2024 (EST)

Part 4 + Part 3 photos – will be published at 8am on Saturday 18th May 2024 (EST)

Part 5 + Part 4 photos – will be published at 8am on Friday 24th May 2024 (EST)

Part 6 + Part 5 photos – will be published at 8am on Tuesday 28th May 2024 (EST)

Photos of your finished project – please share photos of your finished project by 8pm on Sunday 2nd June 2024 (EST) if you would like to be entered into the competition

Final photos published + competition winner announced – Monday 3rd June 2024 (EST)

 

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Terminology: US crochet terminology

 

Materials and Equipment You Will Need

If you have any questions about the materials or equipment please email info@cuddlystitchescraft.com and I will be happy to help.

Yarn weight:

– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply

– but you could also use Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Yarn fibre:

100% cotton

– or 100% acrylic

– or a blend of cotton + acrylic / cotton + bamboo

Yarn colour:

– you will need two contrasting colours

– pink colour is really suitable for this crochet toy so I would suggest these colour combinations: pink and white/grey but you can also use these colour combos if you are making the toy for a boy: beige and white, blue and white/beige, grey and white

– or go completely wild with a multicoloured yarn…creativity has no limits! πŸ™‚

Yardage:

– Colour A – you will need 2 balls of around 100g/200m each

– Colour B – you will need 1 ball of around 100g/200m

I am using:

– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply

– 100% cotton

– 2x ball of James C. Brett – It’s 100% Pure DK Cotton – colour pink IC 06 – (100g/215m) – I am using this one as Colour A

– 1x ball of James C. Brett – It’s 100% Pure DK Cotton – colour white IC 09 – (100g/215m) – I am using this one as Colour B

Other materials: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for embroidery (about 30 cm / 12 inches)

Crochet hook: 3 mm crochet hook = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, tapestry needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker

 

Mystery Amigurumi Pattern Crochet Along (2)

 

Abbreviations

This free pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: triple crochet stitch

– CH: chain

– STR CH: starting chain

– CR SP: corner space

– SL ST: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

 

Before You Get Started

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this mystery pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

 

Pattern Part 1: Now Available

You will crochet this part starting from the bottom and then work upwards. You will need to make two of these.

Start with colour B

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: crochet this round loosely as you will need to crochet into the back bumps of this round in R6 – (SC in next 7 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {27}

R6: BBO – SC in each ST around {27} – if you are struggling to insert your hook into the back bumps then use a smaller hook – I used a 2mm instead of a 3mm hook. Alternatively, you can crochet into BLO instead of BBO.

Watch this video tutorial on How to single crochet into back bumps

R7: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease in Amigurumi

R8: SC in each ST around {24}

R9: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Change yarn to colour A

R10: SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

Start stuffing

R12 – R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R14: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R15: SC in each ST around {15}

R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

R17: SC in each ST around {14}

R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}

Stop stuffing

R19: SC in each ST around {13}

R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}

R21 – R25 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R26: SC the opening together to close the part {5} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn end in

 

 

Pattern Part 2: Now Available

You will crochet this part starting from the top and then work downwords. You will need to make two of these.

You will need to use colour A only.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: SC in each ST around {6}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 3 {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in each ST around {15}

R7: SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}

R8: (SC in next 5 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {21}

R9: SC in each ST around {21}

Do not stuff and leave flat instead

FO leaving a long tail for sewing

 

 

I would like to thank all of you for sharing photos of your work in progress. I have selected just some of your beautiful creations and I hope you will keep sending more photos as we crochet along! πŸ™‚

 

 

Pattern Part 3: Now Available

You will need to make only one.

You will be attaching completed Part 1 (2x) to Part 3 so make sure to have Part 1 (2x) at hand.

You will need to use colour A only.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 6 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 8 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11 – R20 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R21: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R22: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R23: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R24: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing and keep stuffing as you go along

R25: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R26: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R27: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R28: you will attach your completed Part 1 (2x) to Part 3 in this round – watch this video tutorial for extra help. Any colour changes on Part 1 should be facing upwards while attaching Part 1 to Part 3:

– SC in next 4 STs

– SC in next 5 STs while attaching the first Part 1

– SC in next 4 STs

– SC in next 5 STs while attaching the second Part 1 {18}

R29: BLO – (SC in next ST, DEC (note this is a standard DEC)) x 6 {12}

R30: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle and leave a very long tail for sewing (about 30cm = 12 inches)

Watch this video tutorial for extra help.

 

 

 

I would like to thank all of you for sharing the photos of your work in progress again! I am impressed byt the quality of your work and I love seeing how you are getting on.

I can see some of you were puzzled by which way the toy should be (up or down) so I have included my photos above to help you out. Just please double check that the colour changes on your Part 1 pieces are hidden underneath. I can’t wait to see your Part 4 photos soon!

 

 

 

 

Pattern Part 4: Now Available

I think this part will give away a little (or a lot :-)) what you are working on but you still won’t know what animal it is. Plus the next part (Part 5) is a brand new pattern I haven’t tried before and I love the way it looks. Sorry, I couldn’t help myself but to tease you a little! πŸ™‚

To make Part 4 of this pattern, you will need to make one piece only and use Colour A.

Crochet as a square starting from the middle – I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern. This pattern will look a bit complex at a first glance but instead of reading it in one go, take it step by step as it will become easier to follow. Also, it will be a piece of cake after the first few rounds.

And if you still need help, you can watch this video tutorial that will show you how to crochet the first few rounds. But if you can, try resist watching it as it will be a bit of a spoiler.

R1: MR – chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a corner space), 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the magic ring, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {20 including the slip stitch}

R2: Chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 1x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R1, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {28 including the slip stitch}

R3: Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R2, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 6 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {44 including the slip stitch}

R4: Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R3, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 10 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {60 including the slip stitch}

I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top of this page.

R5: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 14 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {76 incl SL ST}

R6: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 17 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 18 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {92 incl SL ST}

R7: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 21 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 22 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {108 incl SL ST}

R8: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 25 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 26 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {124 incl SL ST}

R9: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 29 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 30 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {140 incl SL ST}

R10: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 33 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 34 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {156 incl SL ST}

R11: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 37 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 38 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {172 incl SL ST}

R12: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 41 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 42 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {188 incl SL ST}

R13: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 45 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 46 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {204 incl SL ST}

R14: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 49 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 50 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {220 incl SL ST}

Do not fasten off at this stage, as you will continue with this piece when I publish Part 5 of the pattern.

 

 

Thank you all for sharing your lovey images again. Your work is coming along really nicely and I think your crochet toys will look absolutely beautiful! πŸ™‚

 

Pattern Part 5: Now Available

I think by now you all have a pretty good idea what you are making but only two of you have guessed the animal right so far :-). This new part of the pattern will add a really nice touch to your part 4 and I hope you will like it as much as I do. πŸ™‚

To make Part 5 of this pattern, continue from where you finished with part 4. You will need to change yarn to Colour B.

This pattern looks a bit complex but don’t worry. It’s actually simple to follow if you take it step by step rather than reading the instructions in one go. I have also recorded a video tutorial to help out with this part. But why don’t you challenge yourself and try completing this part without the extra help so the final result is a real suprise. πŸ™‚

R15:

Side 1: SL ST into next CH using colour B, SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 2: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 3: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 4: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs and the SL ST from the beginning of this round, SL ST into SC you made into CR SP at the beginning of this round {288 incl SL ST}

R16:

New corner: CH 4, 1x DC in ST at the base of the chain, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 1: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 2: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 3: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 4: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {312 incl SL ST)

R17:

Side 4: the shell you will now create will be in fact the last shell on Side 4 – CH 3, 6x DC into CH1 space

Side 1: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, 7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 8, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 2: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 3: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 4: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {320 incl SL ST)

R18:

Side 4: you will again start towards the end of side 4, CH 4, 1x DC into the last SC in R17 – this is the stitch that sits before your starting chain, CH5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 1: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 2: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 3: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 4: (CH 5, skip 7 STs, 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {344 incl SL ST)

R19: last round

Side 4: the next two shells you will create will be the last two shells on Side 4 – (CH 3, 6x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 1: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, 7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 2: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 10, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 3: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 10, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 4: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 9, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH, INV FO {352} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

 

 

Thank you so much for sharing your photos again. I must say your projects all look absolutely beatiful! And I can’t wait to see the completed toys this week! πŸ™‚

 

 

Pattern Part 6: Now Available

This is the final part of this project and although it is a small piece, it will be the biggest clue as to what animal you are making. πŸ™‚

You will need to use Colour A for this part and make only one.

R1-R5: crochet around a foundation chain and use the invisible slip stitch to join rounds – don’t worry, I will show you how

R6- R8: crochet in a continous round without slip stitching to join the rounds

R1: chain 6 STs {6}

R2: SC in next 5 CHs starting from 2nd CH from the hook (go through back bump of each CH as well), now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next CH, SC in next 3 CHs, INC in last CH {12}

Watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R2. I crochet in continous round in this video so just watch the first two rounds of the video to help out with this pattern.

R3: INV SL ST into first ST of R2, INC in the same first ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last 2 STs {18} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible slip stitch

R4: INV SL ST into first ST of R3, SC in the same first ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 2 {24}

R5: crochet this round loosely as you will need to crochet into the back bumps in the next round – INV SL ST into first ST of R4, SC in the same first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, INV FO and weave the yarn end in {30} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

R6: create a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into back bump of ST22 of R5 and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round), SC all the way round in BBO {30} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet in back bumps

R7: you will carry on to crochet in a continous round so you will no longer use invisible slip stitch to join rounds – SC in each ST around {30}

R8: SC in each ST around {30}, INV FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Do not stuff at this stage

You have now completed all of the parts of this pattern and all there is left to do is to assemble your beautiful toy. And you can find the assembly instructions below.

 

Assembly: Now Available

I have thought long and hard about how to share the assembly instructions without giving away the final look. At the end, I decided against sharing any photos as that would spoil the suprise. So I am going to throw you in at the deep end here and will let you have a go at assembling the toy yourself with just a few pointers from me. πŸ™‚

Start assembling your toy in this order:

– sew Part 2 pieces to Part 3 first

– then sew Part 6 to Part 3 and keep stuffing Part 6 as you sew along

– you can embroider nostrils on Part 6 if you wish – you can use Colour B or a thin black yarn

– embroider sleepy eyes on Part 3 using a thin black yarn – you can check out this pattern for inspiration (scroll down to the bottom of the page to the assembly section)

– and finally, sew Part 3 to the blanket:

  • I like to position Part 3 so it’s facing one of the corners of the blanket
  • use the long tail you have left after finishing off Part 3 for sewing
  • thread your yarn needle and pull it through the magic ring on the blanket first
  • and then use the front loops of R28 on Part 3 to sew it to the blanket so it’s more secure

– weave in any yarn ends you have left and you are done! πŸ™‚

I hope you enjoyed this mystery crochet along and are happy with the final result! πŸ™‚

Please don’t forget to share photos of your finished project by 8pm on Sunday 2nd June 2024 (EST) if you would like to be entered into the competition. I will publish the final photos and will announce the winner on Monday 3rd June 2024. How exciting! πŸ™‚

Many of you also asked if I will have the PDF pattern available and when. I will be publishing the full patern as a free pattern on my blog and I will also have the PDF available w/c 3rd June. I will send out a Newsletter once it is ready. πŸ™‚

 

More Free Amigurumi crochet patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Penguin Pattern
Free Crochet Koala Pattern
Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern

 

This post contains some affiliate links, which means that I make a small commission off items you purchase at no additional cost to you. If you do make a purchase through my affiliate link, I want to thank you for supporting this blog!

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4 Comments

  1. I joined in on the CAL late (just a couple days ago I joined). I’m on pet 4 if the square on row 11 and I’m afraid I’m going to run out of my color. Because I’m not sure what we’re making, should I run out and try to find the color I had been using or would it be ok to change colors on my last couple rows of part 4?

    Reply
    • Hi Karen,
      I think I already replied to you in our FB group but if not…you will still need colour A for another part of the pattern so if you ran out of it on round 11 of part 4 then you will need more.
      Love,
      Petra x

      Reply
  2. as is my habit when making amigurumi I use the yarn under method. . will this work for this project or should I go back to
    traditional method.

    Reply
    • Hi Cheryl,
      Yes, this will also work with the yarn under method so you can join the mystery crochet along if you want to. πŸ™‚
      Love,
      Petra x

      Reply

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