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This free crochet lion pattern was featured in my recent Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along and it was a huge hit! We all had so much fun watching everyone’s crochet lion come to life…they all looked sooo cute!
I was thrilled everyone loved the pattern and commented on how easy it was to assemble. I made sure to reduce the amount of sewing to a bare minimum since I know how much we all dislike it. Although sometimes I find it relaxing, but only sometimes! Haha 🙂

Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- Low-sew: all you need to sew on is the head to the body
- All you need to know is basic crochet stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
- And more importantly…you will have fun making a beautiful gift for your little one or family and friends
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
When I was designing this Amigurumi lion I decided to go for two different mane styles because why not, right?! I enjoyed making the lion in two different color combos and although lions don’t wear a dark brown coat I still think he looks rather cute…if I may say so myself. 🙂
This free crochet lion pattern includes both the mane versions so you can choose the one you like. Or even better…why don’t you make two lions, each with a different hairdo?!

How to Crochet a Lion
- This free crochet lion pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
- Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
- All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
- I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
- Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
- This free lion crochet pattern requires minimal sewing at assembly. The arms, legs, tail and ears are attached to the body without sewing. You will only need to sew the head to the body.
- The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
- Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks
Before You Get Started with this Free Crochet Lion Pattern
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Sewing level: low-sew, all you need to sew on is the head to the body
Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- when seated: 8.5 inches (22 cm)
- when standing: 12 inches (31 cm)

Pattern Gauge
Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:
– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round
Pattern for gauge:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
Yarn Requirements
This free crochet lion pattern will work great with the below yarns.
- 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
- Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)
Yarn I used for this Amigurumi lion pattern:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
- 2x skein of beige yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 07 – (50g/160m)
- 1x skein of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 03 – (50g/160m)
- 1x skein of dark brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 70 – (50g/160m)
Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton:: WeCrochet Animation DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: WeCrochet Brava
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey
If you would like to check some more substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Materials and Equipment
Materials needed:
- a long piece of black thread yarn for embroidery (about 39.5 inches / 100 cm)
- a long piece of black Sport/DK yarn for embroidery (about 35.5 inches / 90 cm)
- polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook size:
- 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
- if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller
I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment needed:
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Pattern Abbreviations
This free crochet lion pattern is written using US terms.
MR: magic ring (magic circle)
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain
BLO: back loop only
FLO: front loop only
FL ST: front loop stitch
WL: whole loop / both loops
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)
INV DEC in BLO: invisible decrease in back loop only (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)
FO: fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round
Special Stitches
INV DEC = invisible decrease:
- insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch
- then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
- yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
- yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
INV DEC in BLO = invisible decrease in back loop only:
- insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch
- then insert your hook into the back loop of the following stitch but go in from the back (from behind of the stitch)
- yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
- yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
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Printable Crochet Lion Pattern
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Free Crochet Lion Pattern: Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free Amigurumi pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Mystery Crochet Along
Join our free crochet along and unravel the mystery as you stitch along with other fellow crocheters.
Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.
Use beige color.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5-R6 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R7: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}
– video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease
R8: SC in each ST around {21}
Do not stuff and fold flat instead
R9: SC the opening together to close the ear {10} – video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO and weave the yarn end in.
Head
Crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head.
You will attach the ears while crocheting the head.
Start with cream yarn.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 11 STs, INC) x 3 {39}
R8: SC in each ST around {39}
Change yarn to dark brown color.
R9: SC in each ST around {39}
Change yarn to beige color.
R10: SC in next 6 STs, INC, (SC in next 12 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 STs {42}
R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R13: SC in next 15 STs, INC in next 12 STs, SC in next 15 STs {54}
R14: SC in each ST around {54} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R15: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R16: SC in each ST around {60}
R17: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 10 STs {65}
R18-R20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {65}
R21: WL – SC in next 8 STs, BLO – SC in next 51 STs, WL – SC in next 6 STs {65} – please note that WL means you will crochet into the whole loop/both loops as you would normally. I am using this abbreviation to make it extra clear, which stitches will be worked into back loop only (BLO) and which ones into the whole loop (WL)
R22: you will attach the ears to the head in this round (Pic 1 & 2) – video tutorial on How to attach ears to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
– WL – SC in next 8 STs
– BLO – SC in next 11 STs
– attach the 1st ear: WL – SC in next 10 STs
– BLO – SC in next 10 STs
– attach the 2nd ear: WL – SC in next 10 STs
– BLO – SC in next 10 STs
– WL – SC in next 6 STs {65}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): WL – SC in next 8 STs, BLO – SC in next 51 STs, WL – SC in next 6 STs {65}
R25: WL – SC in next 8 STs, BLO – SC in next ST, INV DEC in BLO, (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 4, SC in next 4 STs, SC in next 6 STs {60}
R26: BLO all around – SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC in BLO, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}
R27: BLO all around – (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 6 {48}
R28: BLO all around – SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC in BLO, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}
You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R14 and R15:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes (Pic 3)
– 1st eye – count 19 STs from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST19 and ST20
– 2nd eye – count 35 STs from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST35 and ST36
– you can now insert the safety eyes to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic 4)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi
– take a long piece of beige yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic 5)
– remove the right eye and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic 6)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic 7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic 8)
– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R29
– continue to stuff head gradually
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R29: BLO all around – (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 6 {36}
R30: BLO all around – SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC in BLO, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R31: BLO all around – (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 6 {24}
R32: BLO all around – SC in next ST, INV DEC in BLO, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC in BLO) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R33: BLO all around – (SC in next ST, INV DEC in BLO) x 6 {12}
R34: BLO all around – SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in.
Video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
When you close the hole with a needle go through back loops only of the last round so this will be slightly different to what I show in the video. You want to leave the front loops of the last round exposed so you can crochet into them.

Nose and Eye Detail Embroidery
Nose embroidery:
– embroider the nose using a long piece of black yarn – about 35.5 inches (90 cm) long
– mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering (Pic 9)
– I embroidered the nose between R4 and R8 of the head; leaving 5 stitches between the pins at the top.
– video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on an Amigurumi toy
Eye detail embroidery:
You can also embroider a nice detail around the eyes using white and black yarn as shown in the photo below. (Pic 10)

How to Crochet a Lion Mane
As I mentioned earlier I have designed two different styles of the mane so you can pick the one you like or find easier to make.
Mane – Style #1
You will create the mane by crocheting loops in each of the rows from R20 onwards.
Use dark brown color.
Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet more chains (e.g. 13 instead of 11) otherwise the loops may be too short
Step 1: create a slip knot on your hook
Step 2: insert your hook into the first front loop ST in R20 (Pic 11) and SC once (Pic 12), chain 11 and SC into next front loop ST (Pic 13) – this is your first loop of the mane created
Step 3: SC into FL of next ST, CH 11, SC into FL of next ST – this is second loop of the mane created (Pic 14)
Step 4: SC into FL of next ST, CH 11, SC into FL of next ST and repeat till the end of the row – when you crochet in front of the ears chain only 9 instead of 11 (Pic 15)
Step 5: once you get to the end of the front loops in R20, don’t cut the yarn and just simply continue to crochet into the next row (this is the row where the ears are attached)
Step 6: when you get to the first ear, cut the yarn off and weave the yarn tail in; create a slip knot on your hook with a new strand of yarn and start again on the other side of the ear; repeat when you get to the second ear
Step 7: continue to crochet the mane all around the head and weave the yarn ends in when done (Pic 16)

Mane – Style #2
You will create the mane by crocheting 3x DC STs into the front loops on the head – into every other row from R20 onwards.
Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet treble crochet stitches instead of double crochet stitches otherwise the mane may be too short
R20 and R22 of the head:
– create a slip knot on your hook and insert it into the first front loop ST (Pic 17)
– SC and CH 2 (Pic 18), 2x DC into the same ST (Pic 19)
– 3x DC into the next 49 front loop STs
– 2x DC into the last front loop ST, CH 3
– cut the yarn off and weave the yarn end in through the last front loop ST (Pic 20 & 21)
R24 of the head:
– create a slip knot on your hook and insert it into the first front loop ST
– SC and CH 2, 2x DC into the same ST
– 3x DC into the next 56 front loop STs
– do not cut the yarn off and continue to crochet in the next round
R25 of the head:
– 3x DC into the next 8 front loop STs
– insert a stitch marker into the last DC ST
R25 onwards:
– skip to the next round and 3x DC into the next front loop ST
– 3x DC into each front loop ST all the way round until you get back to your stitch marker
– then skip to the next round again and 3xDC into each front loop ST all the way round until you get to your stitch marker again
– repeat the above steps until you cover the whole head (Pic 22)
– your last round of double crochet stitches should be worked into the last round of the head, which you closed with the needle
– you should always have one unworked row in between the rows with the double crochet stitches

Arms (Front Legs)
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
Start with cream yarn.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R12: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R13: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R14: SC in each ST around {24}
R15: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}
Change yarn to dark brown color and start stuffing the arm.
R16: SC in each ST around {21}
Change yarn to beige color.
R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R19: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 STs {16}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
Stop stuffing the arm.
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 STs {15}
R29-R35 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R36: SC in next 2 STs and then SC the opening together to close the arm {7}
Video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO and weave the yarn tail in.
Embroider and sculpt the paws using a black thread yarn between R3 and R14 leaving 4 stitches in between (Pic 23 & 24) – video tutorial on How to shape animal hooves for Amigurumi. In this video I am shaping a hoof but you can use the same technique for sculpting animal paws.

Legs (Hind Legs)
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
Start with cream yarn.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
R8-R13 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R14: SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 STs {36}
R15: SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 STs {30}
R16: SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 STs {24}
R17: SC in each ST around {24}
Change yarn to dark brown color and start stuffing the leg.
R18: SC in each ST around {24}
Change yarn to beige color.
R19: SC in each ST around {24}
R20: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}
R21: SC in each ST around {21}
R22: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R25: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}
You can now stop stuffing the leg.
R26-R33 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R34: SC the opening together to close the leg {7}
FO and weave the yarn tail in.
Embroider and sculpt the paws using a black thread yarn between R5 and R15 leaving 6 stitches in between.
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Tail
Crochet from the end of the tail towards the body.
Start with dark brown yarn.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3 {12}
R4: SC in each ST around {12}
R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R6: SC in each ST around {18}
R7: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 6 {24}
R8-R11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
You can now start stuffing the tail.
R12: (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {18}
R13: SC in each ST around {18}
R14: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
Change your yarn to beige color and continue to stuff as you go along.
R15-R34 (20 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R35: INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs {11}
R36-R38 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {11}
Stuff well.
R39: SC in next 4 STs and then SC the opening together to close the tail {5}
FO and weave the yarn tail in.
Body
Crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top
You will attach legs, tail and arms as you crochet along.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: you will attach the legs to the body in this round (Pic 25 & 26) – video tutorial on How to attach legs to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
– SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC
– attach the first leg: SC in next 6 STs, INC
– SC in next 6 STs, INC
– attach the second leg: SC in next 6 STs, INC
– SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}
R13: SC in each ST around {72}
R14: (SC in next 11 STs, INC) x 6 {78}
R15: SC in next 6 STs, INC, (SC in next 12 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 STs {84}
R16: you will start attaching the tail to the body towards the end of this round (Pic 27 & 28) – video tutorial on How to attach a tail to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
– SC in next 83 STs
– SC in next ST while attaching the tail {84}
R17: you will finish attaching the tail to the body in this round
– SC in next 4 STs while attaching the remainder of the tail
– SC in next 80 STs {84}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {84}
R20: SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 6 STs {78}
R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R25: (SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R28: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}
R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R31: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
You can now start stuffing the body.
R32-R33 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R34: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}
R35-R36 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R37: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R40: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}
R41: SC in each ST around {42}
R42: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R43: SC in each ST around {36}
R44: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R45: you will attach the arms to the body in this round (Pic 29 & 30) – video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
– SC in next 7 STs
– attach the first arm: SC in next 7 STs
– SC in next 8 STs
– attach the second arm: SC in next 7 STs
– SC in next STs {30}
R46: SC in each ST around {30}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing, stuff body well.

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How to Assemble Your Amigurumi Lion
Attaching the head to the lion’s body: Pin the head to the body first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. You should have enough space to sew the head around the mane. Sew the head to the body while adding more stuffing so the head is not wobbly.
You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my free crochet lion pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the cute lion!
And if you enjoyed the easy assembly of this crochet toy then you will love these patterns:
No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet lion pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet giraffe pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Or explore more of my crochet ZOO animals patterns. From fun Safari animals to playful jungle critters, there is something for everyone to love!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.

Hi Petra
I made the lion for my friends granddaughter as she wanted something that represented her Mum, well I’ve just done a second one as her Dad feel in love with it and was upset it wasn’t for him 🤗😇 thank you so much, the giraffe is next x
Hi Kim, so funny…I’m happy to hear the lion is so popular! 🙂 You are very welcome and I hope you enjoy making the giraffe! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Thank you so much for the pattern. I made one for a friend who is expecting soon. I followed your advice for embroidering the eyes instead and added a bow at the neck line.
Hi Ramie, thank you so much and I’m so pleased you liked the pattern. I hope your friend likes it. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
I made your lion for the fair and got a sweepstakes ribbons on it.
That’s fantastic news Deb! Congratulations, you should be very proud! 🙂
Love,
Petra x