Free Crochet Panda Pattern: Low-Sew Amigurumi Panda Bear

This free crochet panda pattern is another of my designs where I have reduced the amount of sewing. I’m sure you will love it because the only parts that will need sewing on are the eye patches and the head! And if you want to take it a step further then you can even glue the eye patches on with a fabric glue or a hot glue gun. The choice is yours! 🙂

And as always, there are step-by-step video tutorials available throughout different sections of the pattern to guide you through it.

If you follow my blog, then you know that I sometimes like to experiment with colors. This time I decided to use navy blue instead of black yarn for my cute panda bear. And I hope you love it as much as I do! Don’t forget to let me know. 🙂

Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.

How to Crochet a Panda

• This free crochet panda pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
• I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
• Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
• This free crochet panda pattern requires minimal sewing at assembly. The arms, legs, tail and ears are attached to the body without sewing. You will only need to sew on the head and the eye patches.
• The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
• Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Free Crochet Panda Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Sewing level: low-sew, only the eye patches and head need sewing on

Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

• when seated: 8.25 inches (21 cm)
• when standing: 11.5 inches (29 cm)

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

This free crochet panda pattern will work great with the below yarns.

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)

Yarn I used for this Amigurumi panda pattern:

• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
• 1x skein of navy blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 54 – (50g/160m)
• 1x skein of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 62 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

• a long piece of black yarn for nose embroidery (about 35.5 inches / 90 cm)
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 12 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This free crochet panda pattern is written using US terms.

MR: magic ring (magic circle)

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

CH: chain

SL ST: slip stitch

INV SL ST: invisible slip stitch (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Special Stitches

INV DEC = invisible decrease:

• insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch
• then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
• yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
• yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

INV SL ST = invisible slip stitch – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet invisible slip stitch

INV FO = invisible fasten off – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free Amigurumi patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

Download the Printable Pattern PDF

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop or my Ravelry store.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Panda Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free Amigurumi pattern below. I have included lots of pictures to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions.

Some sections of the pattern may also include video tutorials with some basic crochet techniques needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards

Use navy blue yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step-by-step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5-R8 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

Do not stuff and fold flat instead

R9: SC the opening together to close the ear {11} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn end in

Eye Patches

Crochet as an oval around a foundation chain and use the invisible slip stitch to join rounds

Use navy blue yarn

R1: chain 6 STs {6} – make sure the first chain is very loose as you will need to insert the safety eye into it

R2: SC in next 5 CHs starting from second chain from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next CH, SC in next 3 CHs, INC in last CH {12}

Watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R2 (I crochet in continuous rounds in this video so just watch the first two rounds of the video to help out with this pattern)

R3: INV SL ST into first ST of R2, INC in the same first ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last 2 STs {18} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible slip stitch

R4: INV SL ST into first ST of R3, SC in the same first ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 2, INV FO and leave a long tail for sewing the eye patch to the head {24} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

Insert the safety eyes into the first chain of the foundation chain (Pic 1 & 2) and do not put the safety backs on yet. You will sew the patches to the head at a later stage.

Head

Crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head

You will attach the ears while crocheting the head

Use white yarn

R1: Chain 6 STs {6} – you can watch the same video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 5 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last 2 STs {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 STs {42}

R8: SC in each ST around {42}

R9: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 2 {48}

R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R13: SC in next ST, INC in next 16 STs, SC in next 10 STs, INC in next ST, SC in next 10 STs, INC in next ST, SC in next 9 STs {66}

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R17: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R18-R22 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R23: you will attach the ears to the head in this round (Pic 3 & 4) – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to attach ears to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 5 STs

– SC in next 11 STs while attaching the first ear

– SC in next 8 STs

– SC in next 11 STs while attaching the second ear

– SC in next 37 STs {72}

R24-R26 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R27: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

If the ears flop forwards, you can fix them so they stay upright following the steps below:

– thread a tapestry needle with the same navy blue yarn you used to make the ears

– place the needle inside the head and come out through a stitch behind the centre of the ear (Pic 5)

– now pull the needle through a stitch on the back of the ear (somewhere in the middle of the second row from the bottom) (Pic 6)

– and then insert the needle into a stitch next to the one you pulled the needle through behind the ear (Pic 7)

– pull all the way through and come out on the inside of the head

– pull very tight and tie a double knot on the inside of the head (Pic 8)

R28: SC in each ST around {66}

R29: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R30: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R31: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R32: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R33: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes and the eye patches:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic 9)

– place the eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – count 9 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST9 and ST10

– second eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26

– you can now insert the safety eyes with the eye patches to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic 10)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi

– take a long piece of white yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye and patch and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic 11)

– remove the right eye and patch and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole (Pic 12); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic 13)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic 14)

– place the eyes and patches back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R34

– continue to stuff the head gradually

R34: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R35: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R36: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R37: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R38: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

You can now sew on the eye patches. I attached them between R10 and R19 at about a 45° angle.

Nose Embroidery

– embroider the nose using a long piece of black yarn – about 90 cm / 35.5 inches long

– mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering (Pic 15)

– I embroidered the nose between R4 and R7 of the head; leaving 5 stitches between the pins at the top and 3 stitches between the pins at the bottom (Pic 16)

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on an Amigurumi toy

Arms (Front Legs)

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

Use navy blue yarn

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R12: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R14: SC in each ST around {24}

R15: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R19: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 STs {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 STs {15}

R29-R31 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R32: SC the opening together to close the arm {7}

FO and weave the yarn end in

Legs (Hind Legs)

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards

Use navy blue yarn

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 13 STs, INC) x 3 {45}

R9-R13 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {45}

R14: SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs {39}

R15: SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs {33}

R16: SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs {27}

R17: SC in each ST around {27}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R18: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R19: SC in each ST around {24}

R20: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R23: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R26: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R29: SC in next 14 STs and don’t finish the round {14}

R30: SC the opening together to close the leg {7}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Tail

Crochet from the bottom of the tail upwards

Use white yarn

R1: Chain 4 STs {4} – watch this step by step video tutorial to help out with R1 to R4 – the video starts with a different number of chains but the technique is the same: How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain

R2: SC in 3 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next ST, INC in last ST {8}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST, INC in last 2 STs {14}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R5: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {26}

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R8: (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R11: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 2 {14}

R12: SC in each ST around {14}

Stuff the tail but don’t stuff it too much otherwise it will be difficult to crochet it close

R13: SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the tail {6}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top

Attach the arms, legs and tail as you crochet along

Use both white and navy blue yarn but start with the white yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: you will attach the legs to the body in this round (Pic 17 & 18) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach legs to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC

– you will now attach the first leg: SC in next 6 STs, INC

– SC in next 6 STs, INC

– you will now attach the second leg: SC in next 6 STs, INC

– SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R13: SC in each ST around {72}

R14: (SC in next 11 STs, INC) x 6 {78}

R15: SC in each ST around {78}

R16: you will start attaching the tail to the body towards the end of this round (Pic 19 & 20) – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to attach a tail to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 76 STs

– SC in next 2 STs while starting to attach the tail {78}

R17: you will finish attaching the tail to the body in this round

– SC in next 4 STs while attaching the remainder of the tail

– SC in next 74 ST {78}

R18-R20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R21: (SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R25: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R26-R28 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R29: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now start stuffing the body and continue to stuff gradually

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R32: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R33: SC in each ST around {54}

R34: SC in next 3 STs, color change – change yarn to navy blue, SC in next 51 STs {54}

R35: SC in each ST around {54}

R36: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R37: SC in each ST around {48}

R38: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R39: SC in each ST around {42}

R40: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R41: you will attach the arms to the body in this round (Pic 21 & 22) – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

– SC in next 9 STs

– SC in next 7 STs while attaching the first arm

– SC in next 11 STs

– SC in next 7 STs while attaching the second arm

– SC in next 2 STs {36}

R42: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R43: SC in each ST around {30}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing, stuff well

How to Assemble Your Crochet Panda Softie

Attaching the head to the panda’s body: Pin the head to the body first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back (Pic 23 & 24). Sew the head to the body while adding more stuffing so the head is not wobbly.

You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my free crochet panda pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the Amigurumi panda!

If you enjoyed the easy assembly of this crochet toy then you will love these patterns:

No-sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns