I don’t know about you but I find dolphins mesmorising! It has always been my dream to swim with dolphins one day but in the meantime I just have to do with my Amigurumi dolphin :-).  Although, I don’t think I will be taking it in the bath tub with me, haha :-)). This free crochet dolphin pattern is a fun and quick project for you to work on so why don’t you check it out and make a playfull companion for your loved ones!

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Notes

Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – length: 21cm / 8.5 inches

Finished size – height: 11.5cm / 4.5 inches

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 76 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of multicolour yarn – YarnArt Jeans Tropical – colour 614 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of thin black yarn for mouth embroidery, polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet dolphin pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Head and the Body

Starting from the front of the head to the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R8: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R9: SC in each ST around {36}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R11-R13 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R14: SC in next 15 ST, INC in next 12 ST, SC in next 15 ST {54}

R15: SC in each ST around {54}

R16: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R17: SC in each ST around {60}

R18: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R19: SC in each ST around {66}

R20: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R21-R31 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {72} – leave the stitch marker in at the start of R21 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R32: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R33: SC in each ST around {66}

R34: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 8 ST {61}

R35-R36 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}

R37: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 7 ST {56}

R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head and the body well first

– place the eyes between rounds R21 and R22

– first eye – place the eye between ST22 and ST23 from the start of R21

– second eye – place the eye between ST52 and ST53 from the start of R21

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole;   pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing (Pic H4)

– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic H8)

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R40

– stuff gradually as you go along

R40: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 6 ST {51}

R41: SC in each ST around {51}

R42: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 5 ST {46}

R43: SC in each ST around {46}

R44: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 ST {41}

R45: SC in each ST around {41}

R46: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 ST {36}

R47: SC in each ST around {36}

R48: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 2 ST {31}

R49: SC in each ST around {31}

R50: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next ST {26}

R51-R53 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R54: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {24}

R55: SC in each ST around {24}

R56: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {22}

Stop stuffing the body

R57: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R58: SC in each ST around {20}

Do not fasten off and continue to crochet the tail as per the pattern in the next section.

How to Crochet the Tail

Continue to crochet from R58 of the body, crochet as two separate tail fins.

– Split R58 of the body into two parts

– Each part will have 10 stitches and will form one tail fin

– Do not cut off the yarn and continue to crochet in spiral

– Do not stuff the tail fins

First tail fin:

R59: SC in next 10 ST {10} – Pic T1 & T2

R60: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}

R61: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 4 {16}

R62: SC in each ST around {16}

R63: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 4 {20}

R64: SC in each ST around {20}

R65: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 4 {24}

R66-R67 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R68: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {20}

R69: SC in each ST around {20}

R70: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {16}

R71: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {12}

R72: SC in each ST around {12}

R73: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {8}, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn end in.

Second tail fin:

• Go back to R58 and attach new yarn to the first stitch of the second part of R58
• Continue to crochet R59 (Pic T3) to R73 as per the pattern for the first tail fin

How to Crochet the Back Fin

Starting from the top of the fin towards the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R8: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}

R9: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}

R10: SC in next 9 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 9 ST {22}

R11: SC in next 10 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 10 ST {24}

R12: SC in next 11 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 11 ST {26}

R13: SC in next 13 ST, do not finish this round {13}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff.

How to Crochet the Side Fins

Starting from the point of the fin to the side of the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R8: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}

R9: SC in each ST around {18}

R10: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {19}

R11: SC in each ST around {19}

R12: INV DEC, SC in next 17 ST {18}

R13: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R14: INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC {14}

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff.

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Assembly

Back fin: First pin the fin to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the body from the front, back and top. Then sew it to the body. I placed the fin between R28 & R42.

Side fins: First pin the fins to the side of the body making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew them to the body, I placed the fins between R24 & R30.

Mouth embroidery: Embroider the mouth using a thin black yarn as shown in the photos below. I embroidered the corners of the mouth between R12 and R13.

Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy. I hope you found my free crochet dolphin pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the dolphin!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Snail Pattern
Free Crochet Bear Pattern
Free Crochet Monkey Pattern