NO-SEW Chicken Crochet Pattern: Free Amigurumi Pattern

If you’ve been looking for a cute chicken crochet pattern, I think you’re going to love this one! I had so much fun designing this crocheted chicken for my latest mystery Amigurumi crochet along and I’m pleased to say it was a huge hit!

This chicken Amigurumi is quick to make and best of all, it’s a no-sew crochet project, so there’s no sewing required to assemble it together. If sewing Amigurumi body parts isn’t your favourite part of crocheting, this pattern is definitely for you! 🙂

And as always, I’ve included lots of video tutorials for some of the trickier parts of this chicken crochet free pattern. So if you get stuck or just want to refresh your skills, you can simply follow along. I hope you’ll find this pattern fun and relaxing to make!

How to Crochet a Chicken

– This chicken crochet pattern (free) is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.

– Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

– All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.

– I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps.

– Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.

– This free crochet chicken pattern requires no sewing at all, as every piece is crocheted on, making it an easy and enjoyable crochet project to finish.

– The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

– Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Get Started with this Chicken Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

Materials and Equipment

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hooks set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Pattern Abbreviations

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

BLO: back loop only

FL ST: front loop stitch

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Chicken Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this crochet chicken free pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Chicken Crochet Pattern: Step-by-Step Instructions

You can find the free crochet pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Wings

Yarn color: yellow

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the wing upwards

Make two wings

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: SC in each ST around {12}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R5: SC in each ST around {18}

R6: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R7-R14 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R15: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R18: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R19: SC in each ST around {15}

R20: SC the opening together to close the wing, do not stuff {7} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Toes

Yarn color: orange

Construction: first crochet three separate toes and then connect them together to finish the foot

Make 3 toes for each foot

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {8}

R3: SC in each ST around {8}

1st and 2nd toe: INV FO and leave a yarn tail for sewing – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Insert a stitch marker in the first stitch of R3 as you will need to refer to it later.

3rd toe: do not FO and leave your hook in after R3

Do not stuff the toes at this stage.

Continue with R4 as described in the ‘Feet’ section of this pattern.

Feet

Yarn color: orange

Construction: join the toes together to make a foot

Watch this video tutorial on How to join toes in Amigurumi – the final stitch count is different for each toe in this video, so follow the written pattern below. The technique stays the same.

R5: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs {20}

You will notice you have small gaps in between the toes, you can pull the yarn tails out through these gaps and then will use these tails to sew the holes with a few stitches.

R6: SC in each ST around {20}

R7: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs {18}

Start stuffing the toes and the foot

R8: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 5 STs – BLO, SC in next 11 STs {18} (Pic 5)

R9: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST – BLO, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R10: SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST, SC in next ST – BLO, SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC {12}

R11: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next 7 STs {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

You can now close the small gaps in between the toes using a yarn needle. Three or four stitches should do the trick and you can then weave the yarn ends in.

You should have 12 unworked front loop stitches on the top of the foot (Pic 6). You will now continue to crochet the leg into these as per the instructions in the ‘Legs’ section of this pattern.

Legs

Yarn color: orange

Construction: crochet the base of the leg into the unworked front loop stitches on top of the foot and then continue to crochet upwards

R2-R3: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12} (Pic 9)

You can now weave the starting yarn tail in

R4: INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs {11}

R5-R6: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {11}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 9 STs {10}

R8: SC in each ST around {10}

Stuff the leg half way up

R9: SC in next 4 STs and then SC the opening together to close the leg {4}

FO and weave the yarn tail in (Pic 10)

Beak

Yarn color: orange

Construction: crochet from the tip of the beak towards the head

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}

Mark the last ST of R5 with a stitch marker as you will need to refer to it later on.

INV FO, do not stuff, weave the yarn end in.

Head

Yarn color: yellow

Construction: crochet from the top of the head towards the neck

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around – in BLO {12} – you will have 6 unworked front loop stitches left on the top of the head

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 15 STs, INC) x 3 {51}

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {51} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it later

R15: SC in next 8 STs, INC, (SC in next 16 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 8 STs {54}

R16: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 9 {63}

R17: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 8, SC in next 3 STs {72}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R14 and R15:

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes (Pic 19)

– 1st eye – count first 20 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST20 and ST21

– 2nd eye – count first 30 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– check if you are happy with the look and that the beak is centred between the eyes; adjust the placement of the eyes if necessary

– place the safety backs on and continue to crochet R22

R22: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 11, SC in next 2 STs {60}

R23: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R24: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R25: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R26: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the head

R27: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 12 {24}

R28: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Stuff the head well

Do not FO or cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet the body from here.

You can now sculpt the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi – use method 2 shown in the video, but instead of sculpting from eye to eye, sculpt each eye individually by pulling it diagonally towards the back of the head (Pic 20)

– insert your needle into any ST on the back of the head (Pic 21) and bring it out through a ST right next to the eye (Pic 22). Leave a long tail at the back of the head.

– if the safety backing makes this difficult, bring the needle out slightly away from the eye, then insert it closer to the eye as shown in the video

– insert the needle into another ST next to the eye (Pic 23), then bring it back out through the same ST on the back of the head. Pull the yarn tight.

– repeat the previous steps until you achieve the desired indented look. Always insert and exit through the same ST on the back of the head.

– to finish, bring the needle out through the same ST on the back of the head, tie the yarn tails into a double knot, then pull the knot inside the head through the same ST.

– repeat for the other eye

– if the back of the head loses its shape after sculpting, add extra stuffing to reshape it

Body

Yarn color: yellow

Construction: continue from where you finished with the head at R28 and crochet towards the bottom of the body

R29: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {24}

R30: (SC in next ST, INC) x 12 {36}

R31: SC in each ST around {36}

R32: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R33: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

Note: if the wings don’t line up neatly with the eyes and beak, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R35: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R36: SC in each ST around {54}

R37: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R38-R39 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R40: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R41-R42 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R43: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R44-R49 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R50: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R51: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R52: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R53: INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs – BLO, SC in next ST, (INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs) x 5 {48}

You should now have 6 unworked front loop stitches on the back of the body. (Pic 26) This is where you will crochet the tail so these front loops should be roughly centred between the wings.

R54: SC in each ST around {48}

You can now start stuffing the body

R55: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R56: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R57: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R58: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Note: if the legs don’t line up neatly with the wings, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R60: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R61: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R62: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in

Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

Facial Features

Eye brows: Embroider the eye brows using black thread embroidery yarn – about 30cm (12 inches). Mark the placement of the eye brows with pins first before you start embroidering. I embroidered the eye brows between R10 and R12 of the head; leaving 11 stitches between them. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi. It shows the same technique you can use for the eye brows too.

Eye detail around the eye: You can also embroider nice little details around the eyes using white yarn (about 30cm /12 inches) as shown in the photos below.

Hair

Yarn color: yellow

Construction: create the hair by crocheting chain loops into the unworked front loops on the top of the head

Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet more chains (e.g. 16 instead of 14) otherwise the loops may be too short.

Step 1: insert your hook into the first unworked front loop stitch, wrap a new strand of yarn around it, pull it through the loop and chain 1x

Step 2: chain 14x and SL ST into the same FL ST – that’s your first loop created

Step 3: SL ST into the next FL ST, chain 14x and SL ST into the same FL ST – that’s your second loop created

Step 4: repeat the above step until you reach the end of the round with the unworked FL STs – you should have 6 loops of hair in total

Step 5: SL ST into the first unworked FL ST where you started and FO. Cut the yarn off.

Step 6: if you would like to close the little circle in the middle of the hair, you can pull the yarn tail through the bottom chains all the way round using a tapestry needle and then pull on the yarn tail tight to close it. Weave the yarn tails in.

Tail

Yarn color: yellow

Construction: create the tail feathers by crocheting chain loops into the unworked front loops on the lower back, just like you did for the hair

Step 1: hold the chicken upside down and insert your hook into the first unworked front loop stitch in R52 of the body, wrap a new strand of yarn around it, pull it through the loop and chain 1x

Step 2: chain 20x and SL ST into the same FL ST – that’s your first loop created

Step 3: SL ST into the next FL ST in R52, chain 20x and SL ST into the same FL ST – that’s your second loop created

Step 4: repeat the above step until you have created a loop in each of the 6 FL STs in R52 and R53 – you should have 6 loops in total

Step 5: SL ST into the first unworked FL ST where you started and FO. Cut the yarn off.

Step 6: if you would like to close the little gap in the middle of the tail, you can pull the yarn tail through the bottom chains all the way round using a tapestry needle and then pull on the yarn tail tight to close it. Weave the yarn tails in.

And that’s it! 😊 I hope you had fun making this no-sew crochet chicken. If you’d like to make her a little friend, don’t forget to check out my adorable little chick crochet pattern too!