Free Dragon Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Dragon

This free dragon crochet pattern is packed with detailed instructions and lots of step by step photos, which will make it very easy for you to crochet this handsome chap. Plus my helpful video tutorials will guide you through the trickier parts of the pattern

This friendly Amigurumi dragon is called Damian and he can’t wait to become part of your own fairy tale! Unlike some fierce mythical creatures, Damian is caring, sensitive and ready to have lots of fun.

I had been itching to design a crocheted dragon toy for some time and when I saw this beautiful teal yarn I knew I had to get started on it straight away! 🙂

Scroll down to view the free pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF file on Etsy or Ravelry.

How to Crochet a Dragon

• This free crochet dragon pattern is worked in continuous rounds/spiral rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seam on your crochet toy.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
• I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
• Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
• The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
• Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Free Dragon Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: suitable for intermediate crocheters or adventurous crochet beginners

Finished size when using 2.5mm hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn:

• when seated: 23cm / 9 inches
• from ears to toes: 31cm / 12 inches

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

This free dragon crochet pattern will work great with the below yarns.

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)

Yarn I used for this dragon Amigurumi pattern:

• Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
• 2x ball of teal yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 63 – (50g/160m)
• 1x ball of light green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 29 – (50g/160m)
• 1x ball of orange yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 23 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed: polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 12 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This free dragon crochet pattern is written using US crochet terminology.

MR: magic ring/magic circle

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL ST: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the give number (in this example the pattern in brackets will be repeated 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

How to Download the Printable PDF of this Dragon Crochet Pattern

You can download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop or Ravelry store. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free crochet patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with this free Amigurumi pattern.

Free Dragon Crochet Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet dragon pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

Horns

Crochet from the point to the base.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R4-R5 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {15}

Ears

Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate parts; you will then crochet these two parts together.

For both the inside and outside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5 (inside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 and FO {30}

R5 (outside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {30}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the inside and outside part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside.

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E1, E2, E3, E4):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R6 from the above pattern

– slip your hook through the first ST of the outside part

– and then slip your hook through the first ST of the inside part

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each part together all the way round {30}

To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet one side together and leave the other side open (Pic E5).

Head

Starting from the front of the head to the back.

R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the other side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {42}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}

R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {54}

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R15: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in each ST around {48} – change colour to teal yarn after ST35 in R16

R17: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 17 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R18: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 18 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R19: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 19 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {66}

R20: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 20 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST {72} – leave your marker in at the beginning of R20 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes

R21-R29 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R30: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R31: SC in each ST around {66}

R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R20 and R21

– first eye – count 9 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST9 and ST10

– second eye – count 29 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST29 and ST30

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R20, then place the first eye between the 3rd and 4th ST from the 1st INC in R20 and the second eye between the 3rd and 4th ST from the 3rd INC in R20 – you should have 20 STs in between the eyes

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not
recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H9)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H10)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H11)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H13)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H15)

– place the eyes back in the holes, remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H16)

– continue crocheting R33

R33: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R34: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R35: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R38: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R39: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R40: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R41: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Body

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in each ST around {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R14: SC in each ST around {72}

R15: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R16-21 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R22: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R23-24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R25: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R26: SC in each ST around {66}

R27: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R28: SC in each ST around {60}

You can now start stuffing the body

R29: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R30-32: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

R33: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R34-36: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R37: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R38-39: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R41-42: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {36}

Belly

Crochet a circle.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {60}

Sew the belly to the lower part of the body.

Arms

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

Change colour to teal yarn now

R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R11: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R12: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R13: SC in each ST around {24}

R14: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R15-R17 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R18: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R19-R21 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R31: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R32: SC in each ST around {14}

R33: Right arm – SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long tail for sewing

R33: Left arm – SC in next 4 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long tail for sewing

Legs

Start from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

Change colour to teal yarn now

R8-R12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R14: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R15: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R23: SC in each ST around {18}

R24: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R25: SC in each ST around {15}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R27-R30 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R31: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long tail for sewing

Toes

Step 1: mark the spots where you would like to embroider the toes with pins (Pic T1)

Step 2: thread a needle with the orange yarn and then insert needle into the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the arm/leg

Step 3: pull the needle through the arm/leg and come out in the spot, where you marked the top of the first toe

Step 4: pull all the way through leaving a yarn tail at the bottom of the arm/leg

Step 5: embroider 3 toes by sewing up and down in the pin spots (Pic T3 & T4)

Step 6: once you have embroidered all 3 toes pull the needle down through the centre of the magic ring

Step 7: you will be left with two yarn tails at the bottom of the arm/leg; tie a knot close to the centre of the magic ring (Pic T5)

Step 8: weave both yarn tails in tightly through the centre of the magic ring, while pulling the knot inside the arm/leg with them

Tail

Starting from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: SC in each ST around {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7: SC in each ST around {15}

Change colour to teal yarn now

R8: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R9: SC in each ST around {18}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R11: SC in each ST around {21}

R12: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3 {24}

R13: SC in each ST around {24}

R14: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R15: SC in each ST around {27}

R16: SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 4 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC {30}

R17: SC in next 11 ST, INC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 11 ST, INC {33}

R18: SC in each ST around {33}

R19: SC in next 12 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 12 ST, INC {36}

R20: SC in next 13 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 13 ST, INC {39}

R21: SC in each ST around {39}

You can now start stuffing the tail

R22: SC in next 14 ST, INC, SC in next 8 ST, INC, SC in next 14 ST, INC {42}

R23: SC in next 15 ST, INC, SC in next 9 ST, INC, SC in next 15 ST, INC {45}

R24: SC in each ST around {45}

R25: SC in next 16 ST, INC, SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 16 ST, INC {48}

R26: SC in next 17 ST, INC, SC in next 11 ST, INC, SC in next 17 ST, INC {51}

R27: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {51}

How to Crochet Dragon Wings

Starting from the root of the wing towards the tip.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4-R5 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R6: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R9: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

Change colour to light green yarn now

R14: SC in each ST around {36}

You will now crochet the decorative detail on the dragon wings using double crochet stitches and treble crochet stitches.

R15: (SC in next 2 ST, 2 x DC in the next ST, 2 x TC in the next ST, 2 x DC in the next ST, SC in next ST) x 6 and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {54}

Closing the wings:

Step 1: thread your needle with the attached yarn tail of green yarn you left for sewing

Step 2: close the wings by sewing each side of the wing together as shown in the photos below (Pic W1 & W2) – pull your needle through each ST of R14 on the inside of the wing

Step 3: pull tightly on the yarn as you go along to ensure the wings are truly closed

Step 4: once you close the wing, FO and weave in your yarn

How to Assemble Your Amigurumi Crochet Dragon

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first and then sew them to the head. I placed the ears between R27 and R31.

Head and horns: Pin the horns to the head first and then sew the horns to the head, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the horns between R26 and R32.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first and then sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the first arm to the body and check that you are happy with the placement before sewing the second arm on. Don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the arms between R34 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below. Sew the first leg to the body and check if you are happy with the placement before sewing on the second leg. Don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the legs between R2 and R7 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit up your toy to make sure the tail is not placed too low. Sew the tail to the body adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R6 and R24.

Wings: Pin the wings to the body first making sure that they look symmetrical and sew the wings to the body. I placed the wings between R32 and R37 and left 4 STs in between them.

Nostrils embroidery: You can embroider nostrils using the same teal yarn you used for crocheting the body. I placed the nostrils between R8 and R9. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi.

You have now finished your Amigurumi dragon. I hope you found my free dragon crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.