NO-SEW Crochet Mini Mouse: Free Amigurumi Pattern

If you love small, cute crochet projects that work up quickly, this NO-SEW crochet mini mouse is going to be a favorite. Whether you’re new to Amigurumi or just want a relaxing project, this free Amigurumi pattern is a joy to make.

If sewing parts together usually kills your motivation, this free crochet mouse pattern keeps everything easy and enjoyable from start to finish. It’s worked entirely in one piece, so all that’s left is embroidering the nose and adding the whiskers. Even better, I’ve included step-by-step video tutorials for both.

This Amigurumi mouse makes a perfect gift for your little ones, friends or even your cat if you want to watch them go wild. If you’re searching for a tiny crochet mouse free pattern that’s easy to make and irresistibly cute, look no further!

This crocheted mouse pairs perfectly with my LOW-SEW crochet cat, making them a fun set to create. Just imagine your crochet cat with its own tiny companion – it’s an adorable combo and perfect for gifting.

How to Crochet a Mouse

– This Amigurumi mouse is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.

– Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

– All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.

– Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.

– This crocheted mouse is a NO-SEW pattern so all parts are crocheted on. You will only need to embroider the nose and attach the whiskers.

– The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Before You Start this Crochet Mini Mouse Pattern

Pattern Notes

Difficulty level: easy – basic skills and knowledge of simple stitches

Pattern Gauge

Yarn Requirements

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

• black piece of yarn – ideally thread embroidery yarn – about 30cm (12″)
• (optional) black nylon fishing line, ideally 0.4mm but 0.35mm will also work – about 50cm (19.5″)
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hooks set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• stitch marker
• pins with large heads
• 6 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This crochet mini mouse pattern is written using US terms.

MR: magic ring

CH: chain

ST: stitch

SL ST: slip stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease

BLO: crochet into back loop only

FL ST: front loop stitch

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number of times (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the total number of stitches at the end of each round

Special Stitches

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this crochet mouse pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my Amigurumi patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Crochet Mini Mouse Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this free crochet mini mouse pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my free crochet patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your crochet projects, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF file pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Crochet Mini Mouse Pattern: Step by Step

You can find the free mouse crochet pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of this free crochet pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Head & Body

Construction: crochet from the snout towards the back of the body

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next ST, INC) x 4, SC in next 3 STs {20}

R7: SC in each ST around {20} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R7 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R8: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 4, SC in next 3 STs {25}

R9: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 4, SC in next 3 STs {30}

R10: SC in each ST around {30}

R11: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs, SC in next ST in BLO, SC in next ST, INC, SC in next ST in BLO, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next ST, SC in next ST in BLO, SC in next ST, INC, SC in next ST in BLO, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs {35} – we are crocheting some stitches in BLO because we want to leave some front loops unworked so we can crochet the ears into them at a later stage

R12: SC in next 11 STs, SC in next 3 STs in BLO, SC in next 8 STs, SC in next 3 STs in BLO, SC in next 10 STs {35} – Pic 1

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R7 and R8:

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes

– 1st eye – count 13 STs from the stitch marker you left at the beginning of R7 and insert the eye between ST13 and ST14

– 2nd eye – count 7 STs from the stitch marker you left at the beginning of R7 and insert the eye between ST7 and ST8

– make sure you are happy with the look and put the safety backs on – Pic 2

R13-R17 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {35}

R18: SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 STs {30} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

Start stuffing the body

R19: SC in each ST around {30}

R20: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R21: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R22: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R23: SC in each ST around {12} – stuff well and do not close the body or cut the yarn off. You will continue to crochet the tail as per the pattern in the next section.

Tail

You will now crochet the tail before closing the body:

Step 1: continue from where you finished with R23 and chain 15 {15} – if you would like a longer tail than crochet more chains

Step 2: SL ST into each chain starting with 2nd chain from the hook {14} – go through back bump of each chain as well – Pic 3

Step 3: SL ST into last ST of R23

Step 4: cut the yarn off leaving a long tail, pull it out of the working loop and use the yarn tail to close the body with a yarn needle – Pic 4 & 5 – watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

Ears

Construction: you will crochet the ears into the front loops that you left unworked on the top of the head. Hold the mouse facing you and start from the very first stitch on the right working your way to the left.

How to Embroider the Nose

Embroider the nose using a long strand of black yarn – about 50cm long (19.5″). I embroidered the nose between the centre of the magic ring and R1. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy.

There is no need to embroider the outline of the nose across the top and bottom as shown at the beginning of the video as the nose is too small for that. Instead start embroidering the nose from top to the centre of the magic ring straight away.

When you are finished with the nose, just embroider one line across the top of the nose going from side to side and you are done.

How to Make the Whiskers

You have two options how to make the whiskers. Both options use the same technique for attaching the whiskers. Watch this video tutorial on How to make whiskers on Amigurumi.

Option 1 – Pic 9 – use black thread embroidery yarn which is safer for babies and small children as the whiskers will be nice and soft. You will need about 30cm (12″) – I attached two sets of whiskers into the same single stitch on each side of the nose. Cut them to your desired length.

Option 2 – Pic 10 – you can make the whiskers using some black nylon fishing line – ideally 0.40mm or 0.35mm size. You will need about 50cm (19.5″) – I attached two sets of whiskers into the same single stitch on each side of the nose. Cut them to your desired length.