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This free unicorn crochet pattern is very special to me because it was first published on Bella Coco website. Those of you who know Bella Coco will understand how super excited I was when she agreed to have me as a guest crochet designer on her blog!
I am really happy as I am now able to share this unicorn Amigurumi pattern with all of you on my own blog. This easy to follow pattern is just the perfect thing for all unicorn lovers as it gives you very detailed instructions on how to crochet the mane and the tail.
So grab a cuppa and get started with this fun project! 🙂
Free Unicorn Crochet Pattern – Before You Get Started
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge but this free unicorn crochet pattern would also be suitable for an advanced beginner
Finished size when seated: 24.5cm / 9.5 inches when using 3mm = C/2 hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
Finished size from tip of the horn to toes: 32cm / 12.5 inches when using 3mm = C/2 hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn
Materials and Equipment
Type of yarn:
– this free pattern will work nicely with 100% cotton, 100% acrylic or a blend
– I recommend using this weight: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply OR Light Worsted Weight Yarn #3 = DK
– you can also use Worsted Weight Yarn #4 but your crochet toy will be a bit larger than specified above
Yarn I used – 4 different colors:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 62 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of dark purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 72 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of light purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 19 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of teal yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 63 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used:
– a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery
Crochet hook:
– I used 3 mm crochet hook = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller.
– I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used:
– scissors
– heart shaped button for decoration
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Abbreviations Used
This free unicorn crochet pattern is written using US terms
– MR: magic ring (magic circle)
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
– BLO: front loop only
– BLO: back loop only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round
I Need Help with this Pattern
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
Need more help?
The fastest way to get help is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post..
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this free unicorn crochet pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
How Can I Download this Unicorn Crochet Pattern?
My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable.
But you can download the ad-free and printable pattern pdf for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
Free Unicorn Crochet Pattern – Step by Step Instructions
You can find the full written pattern below. I have included lots of details with many photos to make it easier for you to follow the instructions.
Some sections of the pattern may also include video tutorials that will show you various crochet techniques needed for that specific part of the pattern.
I have also explained how to assemble your crochet toy to help you reach the finishing line with a big smile on your face! 🙂
Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R4: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R5: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}
R6: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}
R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}
R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}
R14: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 3 and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {9}, do not stuff the ears
Horn
Crochet from the top of the horn downwards.
R1: MR – 5 x SC into the ring {5}
R2: SC in next 2 ST, INC, SC in next 2 ST {6}
R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {8}
R4: SC in each ST around {8}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {10}
R6: SC in each ST around {10}
R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}
R8: SC in each ST around {12}
R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {14}
R10: SC in each ST around {14}
R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {16}
R12: SC in each ST around {16}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Stuff the horn well
Head
Crochet from the nose to the back of the head.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}
R9-R12 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
Change yarn to light purple color
R13: SC in each ST around {48}
Change yarn to cream color
R14: SC in each ST around {48}
R15: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {54}
R16: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {60}
R17: SC in next 11 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {66}
R18-R26 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {66} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R18 & R25 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes and crocheting the mane
R27: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R28: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}
R29: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R30: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}
You can now insert safety eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– place the eyes between rounds R18 and R19
– first eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R18 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26
– second eye – count 43 stitches from your marker at the start of R18 and place the eye between ST43 and ST44
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R31
R31: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R32: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R33: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R34: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}
R35: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R36: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
Body
Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}
R9: SC in each ST around {48}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}
R12: SC in each ST around {60}
R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R14: SC in each ST around {66}
R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}
R16-R20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}
R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}
R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
You can now start stuffing the body
R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R33: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}
R34-R35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R37-R38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R39: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R40-R41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long tail for sewing {30}
Arms (Front Legs)
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: SC in each ST around – BLO {36}
R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}
Change yarn to light purple color
R13: SC in each ST around {30}
R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
Change yarn to cream color
R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R17: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}
R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R31: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R32: SC in each ST around {15}
R33: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
R34: SC in each ST around {14}
R35: SC in next 4 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Legs (Hind Legs)
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in each ST around – BLO {42}
R9: SC in each ST around {42}
R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R11: SC in each ST around {36}
R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
You can now start stuffing the leg
R13: SC in each ST around {30}
Change yarn to light purple color
R14: SC in each ST around {30}
R15: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {27}
Change yarn to cream color
R16: SC in each ST around {27}
R17: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R18: SC in each ST around {24}
R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}
R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R28: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Mane
Crochet two rows of 11 ringlets each; starting from the front of the head towards the back of the head.
First row of 11 ringlets – light purple color:
Step 1: Count 36 STs from the start of R25 of the head and insert the hook through in between ST36 and ST37; draw a loop (Pic M1) and start a chain.
Step 2: Chain 81 STs for the first ringlet (Pic M2), then 80xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
If your ringlet is not curly enough, you can follow this pattern instead: Chain 81 STs for the first ringlet (Pic M2), 2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a curlicue for Amigurumi
Repeat for the other ringlets but start each ringlet with the number of chain STs as specified below.
Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch on the top of the head (Pic M3); draw a loop again and start to crochet another ringlet (Pic M4)
Step 4: Crochet 11 ringlets in total as per the pattern below:
- First 4 ringlets – chain 81 STs and then 80xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
- Another 3 ringlets – chain 91 STs and then 90xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
- Last 4 ringlets – chain 101 STs and then 100xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
Step 5: FO and weave both yarn ends in
Second row of 11 ringlets – dark purple color:
Repeat Step 1 to Step 5 above but insert the hook through in between ST37 and ST38 in R25 in Step 1.
If you would like your little unicorn to have a very thick hair curls you can add another row of ringlets.
Tail
Use the same method that you used for crocheting the mane.
Crochet 3 rows of ringlets – 3 ringlets per row:
First row of 3 ringlets – between R15 & R16 of the body – chain 71 STs and then 70xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
If your ringlet is not curly enough, you can follow this pattern instead: Chain 71 STs for the first ringlet, 2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain.
Repeat for the other ringlets but start each ringlet with the number of chain STs as specified below.
Second row of 3 ringlets – between R16 & R17 of the body – chain 61 STs and then 60xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
Third row of 3 ringlets – between R17 & R18 of the body – chain 56 STs and then 55xSC into the chain starting from 2nd CH from the hook
FO and weave all yarn ends in.
How to Assemble Your Crochet Unicorn Softie
Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R24 and R26.
Head and horn: Pin the horn to the head first making sure that it is placed in the centre between the eyes. I placed the horn between R16 and R23. Sew the horn to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.
Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.
Arms: Pin the arms to the side of the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R31 and R37 of the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R9 of the body.
Eye lash embroidery: To embroider the eye lashes you need to use a long piece of black thread yarn.
You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free unicorn crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.
Did You Enjoy Making this Amigurumi Unicorn?
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Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet unicorn pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet reindeer pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Or explore more of my crochet mythical creatures patterns. And create enchanting mythical characters that will transport your little ones into a world of wonder and adventure!
Happy crocheting!
This pattern was such a delight to sew. l totally enjoyed making it and learnt so much song the easy. Your instructions are so, so clear and easy to follow. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much Frances, I’m so happy you liked the pattern and found it clear and easy to follow. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Geweldige patronen, moeilijk om een keus te maken
Thank you so much Annie! 🙂 You can always make them all. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Awesome generosity in sharing these patterns for free. Thank you!
Thank you so much and you are very welcome!:-)
Hi Petra
Thanks very much for the lovely pattern, I really enjoyed making it and it turned out perfect.
Thanks
Michele
Thank you so much Michele, so pleased you liked the pattern and the finished toy! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Hello !
Thanks for this beautiful pattern !
I’m about to start it, got my hands on a beautifil yarn 6mm (crochet size 5 or 6 needed)
I want the plushie to be big, but since this is double the size as the one used in your pattern,
do you reckon the final product will be twice bigger or even more ? worried about starting something too big
Many thanks !!
Hi Marjorie,
The size of the unicorn will be definitely bigger using a 6mm crochet hook but I think it’s going to be slightly smaller than a double of the stated size while using a 3mm crochet hook. I don’t think it will be bigger than twice the stated size.
Love, Petra x
Hi Petra !
I had not noticed your reply, many thanks !
I have just finished it, it came about 50cms (from seating to top of the horn)
It’s exactly what I was hoping, I love it, thanks a lot for the pattern !
xx
You are very welcome Marjorie, so pleased you are happy with the final result! 🙂
Hi Petra, just wanted to thank you so much for the free unicorn pattern. My daughter asked me if I could make two identical unicorns for two special little 4 yr old girls who are obsessed with unicorns. One is my granddaughter Poppy & the other is her best friend Pippa. Pippa has been through a lot in her young life with numerous stays & operations at Great Ormond Street hospital for children. She is currently on the waiting list for a lung transplant with a shortened life expectancy. She is a very brave little girl & is always happy despite everything she endures. Pippa & Poppy remain best friends throughout & love to wear similar clothes & have lookalike things, so these two unicorns will bring them both a lot of joy. I have embroidered their shortened names – Pip & Pop on the unicorns chests so they don’t mix them up. Thank you again most sincerely.
Hi June, thank you for your comment. It is heartbreaking to hear little Pippa’s story, she really is a brave girl! I wish her all the best with her recovery journey and I am very pleased that my unicorn can bring some joy to her and Poppy! 🙂
Love, Petra x
I love this pattern. So cute!
Question on the tail on the tail…Is it one row of three teal ringlets, with a row of three light purple above, with a row of three dark purple above that? I’m not quite sure about which ringlets are which colors.
Hi Christina, thank you so much. 🙂 I alternated the colours in each row of ringlets but you can choose to do the colours whichever way you prefer. 🙂
Love, Petra x
I like this pattern but I decided to leave the horn off. I also used the Bernat thick baby blanket yarn.
Hi Emily, thank you for your message and I am really happy to hear that you like this pattern. 🙂
It must be so nice and cuddly made with the baby yarn! I must try that one day 🙂
Love, Petra
I just finished making this beautiful unicorn for my niece who is sick. I made it with worsted weight yarn and a 4.25 mm hook and the pattern works beautifully! I love this unicorn so much I might make one for myself. My only suggestion for people making it with worsted weight would be to shorten the mane just a little bit. It gets heavy under its own weight and stretches the curls out, but the 81 is a good length for the curls. I also made it rainbow colors so it was a great stash busting project as well. Again, I just wanted to let you know how lovely this unicorn is and the pattern is written so well.
Hi April,
Thank you so much for your detailed comment and the helpful tip! I am really happy you like my unicorn and I hope it will help your niece with speedy recovery! 🙂
Thank you so much again!
Love, Petra 🙂
I have enjoyed making this unicorn but when attempting the mane my ringlets seem to be straight and not curly, suggestions please.
Hi Pauline, thank you for your comment. I am really pleased you enjoyed working on my unicorn. When it comes to the ringlets, the more tention you apply, the more curly they will be. I tend to crochet quite tight, which is probably why my ringlets are more curly. However, there is a simple solution to this. 🙂 If you follow the below pattern you will have really nice curly ringlets regardless the tension. I will update the pattern soon to include this. 🙂
Ringlets pattern:
2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions.
Love,
Petra x
Beautiful pattern! I love to do amigurumi. My granddaughter just requested a unicorn.
Hi Vickie, thank you for your comment! I am really happy you like my unicorn pattern and I hope your granddaughter will love this one too! 🙂
Love, Petra 🙂
I have enjoyed making this unicorn. You have made the instructions easy to follow. I know my goddaughter will enjoy it. Looking forward to making many more of your patterns.
Hi Emma,thank you so much for your lovely comment. I am really happy you found the pattern easy to follow and I am sure your goddaughter will enjoy the gift you made for her.
Love, Petra 🙂
I just finished this unicorn for my baby cousin! I threw it in the wash before the party because I had been working on it on the subway and the main and tail lost their curl! is there any way to fix this?
Hi Flip, so sorry to hear about what happened to your unicorn after the wash. I always recommend to only hand wash crochet toys as they can get damaged in the washing machine.
However, I think the best way to fix your problem would be to wet the main and tail and curl them around a pencil one by one and let them dry over night or until dry. Just like you would when curling your hair. I think this should fix the problem. 🙂
I hope this helps but please let me know if you need more help.
Love, Petra x
I love this pattern! I already made one and it turned out great, but I was a little intimidated by the eye sculpting so I didn’t do it. Now I’m making another (my mom commissioned me to make a few for her granddaughters) and I tried sculpting the eyes but for some reason, even though I counted to the correct stitches, they look way too close together. Am I not stuffing it enough? Should I space them wider – or will that throw everything off? Please help!
Hi Megan, thank you for your comment. I am really pleased you like the unicorn pattern and will be making more for your mum. 🙂
If the eyes look way too close to each other, it may be because you are pulling the yarn too tight when sculpting the eyes, hence the eye sockets are too close to each other. Also, you need to make sure that once you put the safety eyes’ backs on, you re-stuff really well, especially between the eyes. It would really help me to see a photo of the head so I can recommend how to fix it. Could you please send me one to info@cuddlystitchescraft.com? But of course you can also space them wider if you wish. The placement of the eyes in my patterns is just a recommendation as it is really up to you where you would like to place them.
I hope this helps but please send the photo if you are still struggling with the eyes.
Love, Petra 🙂
Hi Petra, I love all your patterns they are so easy to follow.
I was wondering about the mane on the Unicorn do the rows go across the head or down towards the base of the head? Sorry if this is a silly question, I am having a blank moment 🙂
Kind regards,
Sharon
Hi Sharon, thank you for your comment and the lovely feedback! 🙂 I am very pleased you like my patterns! 🙂
With regards to the unicorn mane, the rows go across the head, i.e. from the front of the head towards the base on the back of the head. 🙂
And don’t worry please, no question is a silly question! 🙂 So if you need more help, please do let me know.
Kind regards,
Petra
Hi Petra, this is a beautiful pattern. Thank you for sharing. I’m still working on it and I have a question about the tail. Are the ringlets rows going from R15 down or up the body? In vertical line? I will post the final result when finished! This is a gift for my cousin Violeta.
Hi Sheila, thank you for your lovely comment and it’s a pleasure to share the pattern with you! 🙂
The ringlets rows will be going up from R15 because R1 is the bottom of the body and the round count goes up. So the second row of ringlets, which goes between R16 and R17, will be above the first row of ringlets. And the third row of ringlets, which goes between R17 and R18, will be above the second row of ringlets.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions. I can’t wait to see your unicorn and I am sure your cousin Violeta will love it! 🙂
Love, Petra
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Hi Daniela, thank you so much for your lovely comment. I am very pleased you like my patterns and find them easy to follow.
Love, Petra 🙂
Hi Petra,
Love this pattern . But how do you get the ringlets to curl with just 1 sc in each chain ?
Hi Kathy, thank you for your comment. The more tension you apply the curlier the ringlets will be but if you want them really curly you can adjust the pattern as per below:
2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain.
I hope this helps. 🙂
Kind regards,
Petra
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern.It was so easily to follow.
Hi Zeljka, thank you so much for your comment, I really appreciate that! 🙂 I am very pleased you liked this pattern and found it easy to follow. 🙂
Kind regards,
Petra
Thank you for sharing your talents for free! This is a wonderful pattern And I truly appreciate the assembly details naming placement details, it was such a great help.
Hi Cindi, thank you for your lovely comment! 🙂 I am really happy you liked the unicorn pattern and the assembly instructions.
Love,
Petra x