This free crochet unicorn pattern is very special to me because it was first published on Bella Coco website, which was a big deal for me as I love her work so much! Those of you who know Bella Coco will understand how super excited I was when she agreed to have me as a guest designer on her blog! Anyway, I am now able to share this Amigurumi unicorn pattern with you on my blog so grab a cuppa and get started! 🙂

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 24.5cm / 9.5 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Finished size from tip of the horn to toes: 32cm / 12.5 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of dark purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 72 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of light purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 19 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of teal yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 63 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes, heart shaped button for decoration

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet unicorn pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: triple crochet stitch

– CH: chain stitch

– SL: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet unicorn pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R6: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}

R14: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 3 and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {9}, do not stuff the ears

How to Crochet the Horn

Crochet from the top of the horn downwards.

R1: MR – 5 x SC into the ring {5}

R2: SC in next 2 ST, INC, SC in next 2 ST {6}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {8}

R4: SC in each ST around {8}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {10}

R6: SC in each ST around {10}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}

R8: SC in each ST around {12}

R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {14}

R10: SC in each ST around {14}

R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {16}

R12: SC in each ST around {16}

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Stuff the horn well

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the nose to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9-R12 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

Change yarn to light purple colour

R13: SC in each ST around {48}

Change yarn to cream colour

R14: SC in each ST around {48}

R15: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {54}

R16: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {60}

R17: SC in next 11 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 8 ST {66}

R18-R26 (9 rounds): SC in each ST around {66} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R18 & R25 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes and crocheting the mane

R27: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R28: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R29: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R30: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R18 and R19

– first eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R18 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26

– second eye – count 43 stitches from your marker at the start of R18 and place the eye between ST43 and ST44

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R31

R31: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R32: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R33: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R34: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R35: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R36: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: SC in each ST around {60}

R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R14: SC in each ST around {66}

R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R16-R20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R33: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R34-R35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37-R38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R39: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R40-R41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: SC in each ST around – BLO {36}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to light purple colour

R13: SC in each ST around {30}

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to cream colour

R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R17: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R31: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R32: SC in each ST around {15}

R33: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R34: SC in each ST around {14}

R35: SC in next 4 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in each ST around – BLO {42}

R9: SC in each ST around {42}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R11: SC in each ST around {36}

R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R13: SC in each ST around {30}

Change yarn to light purple colour

R14: SC in each ST around {30}

R15: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {27}

Change yarn to cream colour

R16: SC in each ST around {27}

R17: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R18: SC in each ST around {24}

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R28: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Make the Mane

Crochet two rows of 11 ringlets each; starting from the front of the head towards the back of the head.

First row of 11 ringlets – light purple colour:

Step 1: Count 36 STs from the start of R25 of the head and insert the hook through in between ST36 and ST37; draw a loop (Pic M1) and start a chain.

Step 2: Chain 81 STs for the first ringlet (Pic M2), then 80xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook

If your ringlet is not curly enough, you can follow this pattern instead: Chain 81 STs for the first ringlet (Pic M2), 2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain.

Repeat for the other ringlets but start each ringlet with the number of chain STs as specified below.

Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch on the top of the head (Pic M3); draw a loop again and start to crochet another ringlet (Pic M4)

Step 4: Crochet 11 ringlets in total as per the pattern below:

• First 4 ringlets – chain 81 STs and then 80xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook
• Another 3 ringlets – chain 91 STs and then 90xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook
• Last 4 ringlets – chain 101 STs and then 100xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook

Step 5: FO and weave both yarn ends in

Second row of 11 ringlets – dark purple colour:

Repeat Step 1 to Step 5 above but insert the hook through in between ST37 and ST38 in R25 in Step 1.

If you would like your unicorn to have a very thick mane you can add another row of ringlets.

How to Make the Tail

Use the same method that you used for crocheting the mane.

Crochet 3 rows of ringlets – 3 ringlets per row:

First row of 3 ringlets – between R15 & R16 of the body – chain 71 STs and then 70xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook

If your ringlet is not curly enough, you can follow this pattern instead: Chain 71 STs for the first ringlet, 2xSC into 2nd CH from the hook, 2xSC in next ST, 3xSC in next ST, 2xSC in next ST and so on taking turns between 2xSC and 3xSC till you reach the end of the chain.

Repeat for the other ringlets but start each ringlet with the number of chain STs as specified below.

Second row of 3 ringlets – between R16 & R17 of the body – chain 61 STs and then 60xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook

Third row of 3 ringlets – between R17 & R18 of the body – chain 56 STs and then 55xSC into the chain starting from 2^nd CH from the hook

FO and weave all yarn ends in.

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R24 and R26.

Head and horn: Pin the horn to the head first making sure that it is placed in the centre between the eyes. I placed the horn between R16 and R23. Sew the horn to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R31 and R37 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R9 of the body.

Eye lash embroidery: To embroider the eye lashes you need to use a long piece of black thread yarn.

Free Crochet Unicorn Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet unicorn pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the unicorn!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Horse Pattern
Free Crochet Turtle Pattern
Free Crochet Caterpillar Pattern