Free Crochet Cat Pattern: LOW-SEW Amigurumi Cat

I’m so excited to finally share this free crochet cat pattern with you! If you followed along during my recent Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along, you probably already know how much fun this adorable crocheted cat turned out to be. Now the full Amigurumi cat pattern is here so you can make your own cuddly kitty anytime you like.

I’ve revamped my old cat crochet pattern, improved a few things and turned it into a LOW-SEW crochet project. The only piece you’ll actually need to sew on is the head to the body. Everything else is crocheted on, which makes the assembly easier and way less fiddly, especially if sewing isn’t your favorite part of Amigurumi.

This cute crochet cat will be a great addition to your collection of free animal crochet patterns. And what’s more…you can easily customize it to match a favorite pet or create a whole litter of colorful kittens. A perfect handmade gift for all cat lovers!

How to Crochet a Cat

– This free crochet cat pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.

– Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

– All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.

– I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.

– Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.

– This crocheted cat pattern requires minimal sewing at assembly. The arms, legs, tail and ears are attached to the body without sewing. You will only need to sew on the head to the body.

– The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

– Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Crochet Cat Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge but also suitable for advanced beginner crocheters

Sewing level: low-sew, all you need to sew on is the head to the body

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Materials and Equipment

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hooks set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Pattern Abbreviations

This free crochet cat pattern is written using US crochet terms.

MR: magic ring/magic circle

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

CH: chain

SL ST: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Special Stitches

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Crochet Stuffed Cat Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Crochet Cat Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free crochet cat pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Arms (Front Legs)

Yarn color: cream and variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

Start with cream color

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: SC in each ST around {24}

R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R7: SC in each ST around {30}

R8: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 STs {27} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

Change yarn to variegated color

R10: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

R11-R14 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R15: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}

R20-R22 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R23: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R24-R26 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R30: SC in next 2 STs and then SC the opening together to close the arm {7} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Legs (Hind Legs)

Yarn color: cream and variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards

Start with cream color

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R9: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs {33}

R10: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {30}

Change yarn to variegated color

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R14: SC in each ST around {24}

R15: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R18: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R19-R21 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R22: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R23-R26 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R27: SC the opening together to close the leg {7}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Tail

Yarn color: cream and variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the end of the tail towards the body. If you would like the tail to be extra bendy you can insert a craft wire or a hair curler inside.

Start with cream color

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}

R4-R7 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

Change yarn to variegated color

R8-R26 (19 rounds): SC in each ST around {15} – start stuffing the tail gradually after R12

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

Stop stuffing the tail

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R30: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}

R31: SC in each ST around {13}

R32: SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the tail {6}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Body

Yarn color: variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top; attach legs, tail and arms as you crochet along

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11: SC in each ST around {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R15-R19 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R20: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R23: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now start stuffing the body

R24: SC in each ST around {60}

R25: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R28: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R31: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R32-R33 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R34: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R35-R37 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R38: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

Note: if the arms don’t line up neatly with the legs, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.

R40: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing and finish stuffing

Ears

Yarn color: cream and variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the point to the base

Start with variegated yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

You will now start using both cream and variegated yarn so watch out for the color changes.

And here is a tip on how to change colors:

Option 1 – when you change colors, you can carry the yarn through the stitches, but it often shows especially if you are using contrast colors. I wouldn’t recommend this option for making these ears.

Option 2 – when you change colors, you can cut of the yarn and attach a new one and make a knot. This is the option I would normally go for as it gives you a very neat result, but these ears are a bit too small for all the yarn ends and knots to fit inside.

Option 3 – when you change colors, leave the yarn hang on the inside of the ear and then pick it up again when needed. Just make sure that you leave a long enough loop so it’s not too tight and does not distort the shape of the ear. This is the option I chose to make these ears at the end.

CC = cream color / VC = variegated color

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Head

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Yarn color: cream and variegated yarn

Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head

Start with cream color

R1: Chain 4 STs {4} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 3 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next ST, INC in last ST {8}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next ST, INC in last 2 STs {14}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {26}

R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 2 {32}

R7: SC in each ST around {32}

R8: SC in next 22 STs, change yarn to variegated color and SC in next 10 STs {32}

R9: (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2 {38}

R10: INC in next 14 STs, SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 8 STs, INC, SC in next 7 STs {54}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R11 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R13: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R14: SC in each ST around {60}

R15: INC, (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 29 STs {64}

R16: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 21 STs, INC, SC in next 35 STs {66}

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R20-R22 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R23: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R24: SC in each ST around {60}

R25: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R26: SC in each ST around {54}

R27: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R28: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R29: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now insert safety eyes between rounds R11 and R12:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes (Pic 9)

– 1st eye – count first 21 STs in R11 and place the eye between ST21 and ST22

– 2nd eye – count first 6 STs in R11 and place the eye between ST6 and ST7

– you can now insert the safety eyes to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic 10)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi

– thread your needle with a long strand of the same yarn you used for making the head

– remove the left eye and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic 11)

– remove the right eye and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole (Pic 12); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic 13)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic 14)

– re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R30; continue to stuff the head gradually

R30: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R31: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R32: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R33: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R34: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in. Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

Facial Features

Nose: Embroider the nose using a long strand of pink or black yarn (1m = cca 1yds). Mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering. I embroidered the nose between R2 and R5 of the head; leaving 3 stitches between the pins at the top (Pic 15 & 16). Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy

Eye detail embroidery: You can also embroider a nice detail around the eyes using the cream yarn as shown in the photos below (Pic 17 & 18).

How to Make Cat Whiskers

You can either embroider the whiskers using some black thread embroidery yarn, which is more suitable for babies and toddlers. Or you can use some black fishing line to make the whiskers. I will show you both options below.

Embroidered Whiskers: Embroider the whiskers using about 50cm (20″) of black thread embroidery yarn as shown in the photo below (Pic 19).

Fishing Line Whiskers: You can make the whiskers using some black nylon fishing line – ideally 0.40mm or 0.35mm size (Pic 20). Watch this video tutorial on How to make whiskers on Amigurumi

How to Assemble Your Cat Amigurumi

How to Attach the Head: Pin the head to the body first making sure it is centred and sew it on while adding more stuffing inside the neck. This helps to support the weight of the head so it is not wobbly.

You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my crochet cat pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making this crochet cat plush toy!

And if you enjoyed the easy assembly of this crochet toy then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns