Meet Dusty the Dog who would love to be your special friend with his big puppy eyes and cute little nose. If you are a dog lover, then this free crochet dog pattern is definitely for you! This sweet Amigurumi dog pattern was inspired by my parents’ Cocker Spaniel and just like him, Dusty is a very playful and loyal companion who is always there for you!

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Notes

Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 20cm / 8 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Finished size from ears to toes: 28cm / 11 inches when using 3mm; C/2 hook

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 05 – (50g/160m)

Yarn for paw pads:

I used Lace Thread #0 = 1 ply

– 100% cotton

– Puppets Eldorado – colour 04251 – (50g/175m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of black yarn for nose and eye brow embroidery / red ribbon (plain or with a pattern of your choice) – 10mm wide, 50cm long / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2 & 1.25mm = 10; if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

Take advantage of this AMAZING OFFER! Open an Etsy shop using this link and list your first 40 items FREE!

How to Crochet the Ears

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Crochet from the bottom of the ear to the top

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

You can now change colour to brown yarn

R11-12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R14-18 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R19: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R20-23 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R24: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R25-26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R27: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R28: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {12}

How to Crochet the Head

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the front to the back of the head

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-14 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to brown yarn after R13 {42}

R15: SC in next 15 ST, INC in next 12 ST, SC in next 15 ST {54} – leave your marker in at the start of R15 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R16: SC in each ST around {54}

R17: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R18: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 10 ST {65}

R19-28 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {65}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– pin the ears to the head and mark the place where the nose will go to help you visualise the final look

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R15 and R16

– first eye – count 19 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST19 and ST20

– second eye – count 35 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST35 and ST36

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R15, then place the first eye between the 2nd and 3rd INC ST in R15 and the second eye between the 10th and 11th INC ST in R15

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H7, H8) and continue crocheting R29

R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 10 ST {60}

R30: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R31: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R32: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R33: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R34: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R35: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R36: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R37: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R38: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: SC in each ST around {60}

R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R14: SC in each ST around {66}

R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R16-20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R22-23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R25-26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28-29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R31-32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R33: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R34-35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37-38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R39: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R40-41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

How to Crochet the Arms

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7-10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to brown yarn after R7 {36}

R11: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R12: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R13: SC in each ST around {24}

R14: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R15-17 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R18: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R19-21 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R23-24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R26-27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R29-30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R31: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R32: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {14}

How to Crochet the Legs

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to brown yarn after R9 {42}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R14: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R15: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R16-18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R20-21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R23: SC in each ST around {18}

R24: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R25: SC in each ST around {15}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R27-30 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {14}

How to Crochet the Paw Pads

Hook size: 1.25mm = 10

Yarn: 100% cotton (thread weight)

Crochet four smaller pads and one larger pad for each leg

Smaller pad:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring, SL into first ST of R1 {6}

R2: Chain 1x ST, INC in each ST around, SL into first ST of R2 and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {12}

Larger pad:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring, SL into first ST of R1 {6}

R2: Chain 1x ST, INC in each ST around, SL into first ST of R2 {12}

R3: Chain 1x ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 6, SL into first ST of R3 {18}

R4: Chain 1x ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6, SL into first ST of R4 and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {24}

Assembly:

Larger pad – place the top edge of the pad in the centre of the MR of the leg

Smaller pads – between R3 and R6/7 or as per your preference

How to Crochet the Tail

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the end of the tail

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3-5 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to brown yarn after R4 {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7-12 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO after R12 leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {15}

You can now stuff the tail

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first and then sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R21 and R28.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the body will be attached slightly towards the back of the head. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the arms to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the arms between R32 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below. Sew the legs to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the legs between R3 and R8 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit up your toy to make sure the tail is not placed too low. Sew the tail to the body adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R11 and R17 of the body.

Nose and eye brow embroidery: To embroider the nose you will need a long piece of DK black yarn and a yarn needle. Place pins into the stitches where you would like to embroider the nose to give you an idea of what it will look like when finished. First embroider the edges of the nose to create a triangle. Then fill the nose in while making sure your stitches are very close to each other for a fuller look. I placed the nose between R3 and R7.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy

You can choose to embroider the eye brows as well. I placed them between R18 and R19.

Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy and as a final touch you can tie a bow around its neck with a nice ribbon of your choice! I hope you found my free crochet dog pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the dog!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Pig Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern