This adorable Amigurumi Guinea pig is no ordinary Guinea pig! “Why is it so special?” you may ask. Well, I made this crochet toy as a gift for my daughter and it is an exact copy of her real Guinea pig pet called Pixie. And just like her real piggy, this super soft toy loves lots of attention and play time. I have no doubt that this free crochet Guinea pig pattern will be a fun project for you to work on. You can experiment with different colours and make the finished toy your very own unique piggy.

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Notes

Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – length: 21.5cm / 8.5 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook

Finished size – height: 13cm / 5 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of brown yarn (50g/160m) – YarnArt Jeans – colour 70

– 1x ball of black yarn (50g/160m) – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of thin black yarn for toe embroidery and whiskers / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets six times

(…..) x 3: repeat the pattern inside the brackets three times

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate parts; you will then crochet these two parts together.

For both the inside and outside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5 (inside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 and FO {30}

R5 (outside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {30}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the inside and outside part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E1, E2):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R6 from the above pattern

– slip your hook through the first ST of the outside part

– and then slip your hook through the first ST of the inside part

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each part together all the way round {30}

To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet one side together and leave the other side open (Pic E3, E4)

How to Crochet the Head and Body

Starting from the front of the head to the back of the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: SC in each ST around {24}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R8: SC in each ST around {36}

R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R10: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R11-12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R13: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6, SC in next 12 ST {54}

R14: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6, SC in next 12 ST {60} – leave your marker in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15-21 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R22: INC in next ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 30 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST {66}

R23: SC in each ST around {66}

R24: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 30 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 4 ST {72}

R25-27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– pin the ears to the head to help you visualise the final look

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – count 18 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST18 and ST19

– second eye – count 36 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST36 and ST37

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H7, H8) and continue crocheting R28

R28: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R29-38 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R39: SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 7, SC in next 12 ST {85}

R40-41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {85}

R42: SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 7, SC in next 12 ST {92}

R43-55 (13 rounds): SC in each ST around {92}

R56: SC in next 5 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 7, SC in next 10 ST {85} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R57: SC in each ST around {85}

R58: SC in next 5 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 7, SC in next 10 ST {78}

R59: SC in each ST around {78}

R60: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R61: SC in each ST around {72}

R62: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R63: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R64: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R65: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R66: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R67: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R68: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R69: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R70: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R71: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R72: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Front Legs

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Chain 5 ST {5} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 4 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last ST {10}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last 2 ST {16}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 2 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 2 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {22}

R5-9 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {22}

R10: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R11-12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R13: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {18}

R14: SC in each ST around {18}

R15: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R16: SC in each ST around {15}

R17: SC in next 4 ST, stuff the leg and close it by crocheting the seam together

You can embroider the toes using a thin black yarn at this stage.

How to Crochet the Back Legs

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Chain 5 ST {5} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 4 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last ST {10}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last 2 ST {16}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 2 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 2 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {22}

R5-9 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {22}

R10: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R11-13 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R14: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {18}

R15-16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R17: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R18: SC in each ST around {15}

R19: SC in next 4 ST, stuff the leg and close it by crocheting the seam together

You can embroider the toes using a thin black yarn at this stage.

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first and then sew them on. I placed the ears between R22 and R27.

Legs and body: Pin the legs to the body first and then sew them on. I placed the front legs between R34 and R35 and the back legs between R57 and R58.

Nose embroidery: To embroider the nose you will need a long piece of DK black yarn and a yarn needle. Mark the place where you would like to embroider the nose using pins with large heads. First embroider the edges of the nose to create a triangle. Then fill the nose in while making sure your stitches are very close to each other for a fuller look.

Whiskers: Use thin black yarn for the whiskers; pull the yarn through the front of the head near the nose (I pulled it through between R6 and R7). To ensure the whiskers stay in place you need to tight a knot to the stitch next to the yarn after pulling it through.

Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my free crochet Guinea pig pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the Guinea pig!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Pig Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Dog Pattern