Free Crochet Cat Pattern

Free Crochet Cat Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 65 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 86 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used:

– a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery

– a long piece of cream thread yarn or fishing line for whiskers

– polyester fibre fill

– ribbon of your choice for the bow

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes, small metal jingle bell

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead. The use of a jingle bell may also pose a choking risk.

Free Crochet Cat Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet cat pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Cat Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet cat pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet from the point to the base.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R7: SC in each ST around {18}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Use the below pattern to crochet the inside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: SL ST into the 1^st ST of R1, chain 2 STs, ( 1x DC, 1x HDC into the ST at the base of the chain), SC in next ST, (1x HDC, 1x DC, 1x HDC in next ST), SC in next ST, (1x HDC, 1x DC, 1x HDC in next ST), SC in next ST and SL ST into the top of the chain you made at the start of this round {13}

Now you can sew it to the ear.

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the front of the head to the back.

R1: Chain 4 ST {4} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 3 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next ST, INC in last ST {8}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next ST, INC in last 2 ST {14}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {26}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {32}

R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {38}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {38} – change yarn to pink colour after ST26 in R9

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {44}

R11: INC in next 15 ST, SC in next 14 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 14 ST {60}

R12: SC in next 39 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 10 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 9 ST {62} – leave the stitch marker in at the start of R12 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R13-R15 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {62}

R16: INC in first ST, SC in next 9 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 10 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 9 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 30 ST {66}

R17: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R18-R21 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R22: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R23: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R24: SC in each ST around {60}

R25: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R26: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R27: SC in each ST around {48}

R28: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R12 and R13

– first eye – count 7 stitches from your marker at the start of R12 and place the eye between ST7 and ST8

– second eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R12 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H9)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H10)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H11)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H13)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H15)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H16) and continue crocheting R29

R29: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R30: SC in each ST around {36}

R31: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R32: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R33: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R34: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R35: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R11: SC in each ST around {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: SC in each ST around {66}

R14: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R15-R19 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R20: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R23: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R24: SC in each ST around {60}

R25: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R26-R27: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R28: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R29-R30: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R31: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R32-R33: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R34: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R35-R37: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {36}

R38: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R39-R40: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: SC in each ST around {24}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R7: SC in each ST around {30}

R8: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R10: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R11-R13 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

Change yarn to pink colour now

R14: SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 19 ST {20}

R16-R20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 18 ST {19}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {19}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 17 ST {18}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R30: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R33: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R34: SC in each ST around {15}

R35: SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R10: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 ST {33}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}

R12: SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to pink colour now

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R17: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R18-R20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R21: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R26: SC in each ST around {15}

R27: SC the opening together to close the leg

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Paw Pads

R1: MR – 8 x SC into the ring {8}

R2: SL ST into the 1^st ST of R1, chain 1 ST, 3x DC in next ST (not the one at the base of the chain but the next one), 2x HDC in next ST, 1x SC in next ST, 1x SC in next ST, chain 2 STs and 1x SC in the same ST, 1x SC in next ST, 2x HDC in next ST, 3x DC in next ST, chain 1 ST, SL ST into last ST {18}

You can now sew the hearts to the legs.

How to Crochet the Tail

Crochet from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R4-R8 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

Change yarn to pink colour and start stuffing the tail

R9-R34 (26 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

If you would like the tail to be extra bendy you can insert a craft wire or a hair curler inside.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Cat Softie

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R18 and R21 with 8 STs in between them.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R30 and R38 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R2 and R10 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R8 and R14.

Eye lash embroidery: You can embroider the eye lashes using a long piece of black thread yarn.

Nose embroidery: You can embroider the nose using the same yarn you used for crocheting the body. Or use any pink yarn. First outline the shape of the nose and then fill it in.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy

Whiskers: The best way to create whiskers is to either use a thread yarn dipped in PVA glue or a fishing line. However, if you are making your toy for a small child I would recommend to embroider the whiskers instead due to a potential risk of an eye injury.

I have chosen to create my whiskers using a cream white yarn:

Step 1: Cut the yarn into 5 long pieces – allow extra length as it is better to start with long whiskers and then cut them to the length you like after they have been attached

Step 2: Cover the yarn pieces in PVA glue – the easiest way to do this is to dip your fingers in the glue and run each piece of yarn between your fingers making sure the yarn is well covered in the glue. You can then stretch the yarn on a piece of plastic or cling film and let it dry. Once dry, the yarn will be stiff so it will hold the shape nicely.

Step 3: Thread your needle with the dry yarn and pull it through the cheeks (Pic W1)

Step 4: To ensure the whiskers stay in place and can’t be pulled out, you need to tie a knot to one of the cheeks. Insert your needle through the same stitch you pulled the yarn through (Pic W2) and tie a single knot (Pic W3). The yarn will be a bit stiff but you need to pull on both yarn ends really tight until the knot is very tiny. To hide the knot, you just need to pull the yarn end on the opposite side really tight again.

Step 5: Finish all 5 whiskers and cut them to the required length. (Pic W4)

If you are using a fishing line, you can use the same steps but of course you don’t need to dip it in the PVA glue.

You have now finished your crochet animal and as a final touch you can tie a bow around its neck with a nice ribbon of your choice and hang a jingle bell on it!