Free Crochet Elephant Pattern

If you love elephants as much as I do, then you must try this free crochet elephant pattern! Children all around the World are fascinated by these gentle giants so no surprise that Amigurumi elephant toys are so popular and loved.

I am sure that Ellie the Elephant will be a hit with any little girl, who will love the beautiful pink skirt and flower piece. And if you would like to crochet an elephant boy, then just simply leave out the skirt with the flower piece and swap the pink yarn for blue. Either way, your finished crochet toy will look elephantastic! 🙂

Free Crochet Elephant Pattern – Before You Get Started!

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 21cm / 8 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Finished size from ears to toes: 31cm / 12 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 80 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 36 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a piece of thin black yarn for eye lash embroidery / pink lace ribbon for skirt – 1 metre – 40 inches long / a head piece of your choice – a flower, bow or hair clip / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes, crafting wire or any type of wire that is easy to sculpt and keeps the shape (I used an electrical cable is it’s thicker and keeps the shape well – 15cm / 6 inches)

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Abbreviations Used

This elephant free crochet pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets six times

(…..) x 3: repeat the pattern inside the brackets three times

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Elephant Crochet Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this free crochet elephant pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Elephant Pattern – Step by Step!

You can find the free crochet pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Ears

Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate parts; you will then crochet these two parts together.

For both the inside and outside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10 (inside of the ear only): SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST and FO {60}

R10 (outside of the ear only): SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {60}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the inside and outside part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E1, E2, E3, E4):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R11 from the above pattern

– slip your hook through the first ST of the outside part

– and then slip your hook through the first ST of the inside part

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each part together all the way round {60}

To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet one side together and leave the other side open (Pic E5, E6)

Head

Starting from the trunk to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R5-R18 (14 rounds): SC in each ST around {21} – crochet R5 in back loop

R19: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3 {24}

R20: SC in each ST around {24}

R21: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R22: SC in each ST around {27}

R23: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 3 {30}

R24: SC in each ST around {30}

R25: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3 {33}

R26: SC in each ST around {33}

R27: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 3 {36}

R28: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3 {39}

R29: SC in each ST around {39}

R30: (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 3 {42}

You can now shape the trunk:

– you need to use a crafting wire or any type of wire that is easy to sculpt and keeps the shape – I used an electrical cable is it’s thicker and keeps the shape well – you will need at about 15cm / 6 inches (Pic H1)

– make sure you bend the ends as shown in the photo (Pic H1) as it is safer not to have any sharp ends that could come out of your work – you can do this by hand or use a pair of pliers

– wrap your wire/cable in some of the polyester fiber fill – use just a little bit of the fiber fill as you want to make sure it fits inside the trunk (Pic H2)

– stuff the end of the trunk with just a little bit of the fiber fill and then place the wire/cable inside the trunk and stuff well around it – this can be somewhat fiddly so requires a bit of patience (Pic H3)

– you can now shape the trunk – you may need to adjust the stuffing or add some more depending on what the trunk looks like once shaped

R31: SC in next 11 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {46}

R32: SC in next 12 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {50}

R33: SC in next 13 ST, INC, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {54}

R34: SC in next 14 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {58} – leave your marker in at the beginning of R34 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes

R35: SC in next 15 ST, INC, (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {62}

R36: SC in next 16 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {66}

R37: SC in each ST around {66}

R38: SC in next 9 ST, INC, SC in next 52 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST {68}

R39: SC in each ST around {68}

R40: SC in next 10 ST, INC, SC in next 53 ST, INC, SC in next 3 ST {70}

R41-R46 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {70}

R47: SC in next 20 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R48: SC in each ST around {66}

R49: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R50: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R34 and R35

– first eye – count 22 stitches from your marker at the start of R34 and place the eye between ST22 and ST23

– second eye – count 43 stitches from your marker at the start of R34 and place the eye between ST43 and ST44

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R34, then place the first eye above the 6th and 7th ST from 1st INC in R34 and the second eye above the 3rd and 4th ST from 3rd INC in R34 – you should have 20 STs in between the eyes

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H4)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H5)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H6)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole (Pic H7); pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H8)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H9)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H10)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H11) and continue crocheting R51

R51: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R52: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R53: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R54: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R55: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R56: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R57: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R58: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Body

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in each ST around {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R14: SC in each ST around {72}

R15: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

Change your yarn to pink yarn

R19: SC in each ST around {78}

R20: SC in each ST around {78} – SC together with lace ribbon (Pic B1 & B2) – slip stitch into last ST

Change your yarn to grey yarn

R21: Chain 1x ST, SC in each ST around {78} – crochet in back bump (not back loop) – (Pic B3, B4 & B5)

R22: Continue to crochet in spiral – SC in each ST around {78}

R23: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R26: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R27: SC in each ST around {66}

R28: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R29: SC in each ST around {60}

R30: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R31-R33: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R34: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R35-R37: (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R38: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R39: SC in each ST around {42}

R40: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R41: SC in each ST around {36}

R42: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R43: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

Arms

Start from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {36} – crochet R7 in back loop

R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R11-R13 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R17: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R29-R31 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R32: Right arm – SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and leave a long tail for sewing

R32: Left arm – SC in next 5 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm

FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Legs

Start from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {42} – crochet R8 in back loop

R12: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R15: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R16: SC in each ST around {30}

R17: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R18-R21 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R22: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R23: SC in each ST around {21}

R24: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R25: SC in each ST around {18}

R26: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R27-R29 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R30: SC the opening together to close the leg

FO and leave a long tail for sewing

How to Embroider the Toes

Step 1: mark the spots where you would like to embroider the toes with pins (Pic F1)

Step 2: thread a needle with the pink yarn and then place the needle in the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the arm/leg (Pic F2)

Step 3: pull the needle through the arm/leg and come out in the spot, where you marked the top of the first toe (Pic F2)

Step 4: pull all the way through leaving a yarn tail at the bottom of the arm/leg

Step 5: embroider 3 toes by sewing up and down in the pin spots (Pic F3 & F4)

Step 6: once you have embroidered all 3 toes pull the needle down through the centre of the magic ring

Step 7: you will be left with two yarn tails at the bottom of the arm/leg; tie a knot close to the centre of the magic ring (Pic F5)

Step 8: weave both yarn tails in tightly through the centre of the magic ring, while pulling the knot inside the arm/leg with them (Pic F5)

How to Make the Tail

Step 1: mark the spots where you would like to attach the tail (Pic T1) – I attached the tail between R15 and R17

Step 2: thread a needle with the grey yarn and then pull it through the marked stitch (Pic T2 & T3) – make sure that the yarn is folded in half once pulled through, so each tail is the same length – each tail should be around 30cm/12 inches long, but you may need to leave it longer if you want longer tail

Step 3: pull 4 strings of yarn through each of the 3 stitches – you can choose to pull through more strings of yarn if you want the tail to be thicker (Pic T4)

Step 4: separate each bunch of the yarn strings and start platting the tail (Pic T5)

Step 5: once you have achieved the required length of the tail then wrap one of the strings around the tail several times and FO by pulling the string through with a needle (Pic T6)

Step 6: cut off the strings and your tail is finished (Pic T6) – my tail is 12cm/5 inches long

How to Assemble Your Amigurumi Elephant Softie

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first and then sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R41 and R47.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the head will be slightly tilted downwards towards the front. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the arms to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the arms between R36 and R43 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the trunk facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body first and then sew the legs to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the legs between R5 and R9 of the body.

Eye lash embroidery and head piece: You can chose to embroider eye lashes with a thin black yarn. A head piece such as a flower or a bow attached next to one ear is also a nice touch – I made a flower from the same lace ribbon I used for the skirt.

You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free elephant crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.