Free Crochet Turtle Pattern

Free Crochet Turtle Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of dark green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 52 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of light green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 60 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Turtle Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– CH: chain stitch

– CHs: chain stitches

– SL: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Turtle Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet turtle pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Head

Starting from the front to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9-R14 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {48} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R12 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes

R15: (SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {45} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R16: SC in each ST around {45}

R17: (SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {42}

R18: SC in each ST around {42}

R19: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R20: SC in each ST around {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R12 and R13

– first eye – count 14 stitches from your marker at the start of R12 and place the eye between ST14 and ST15

– second eye – count 32 stitches from your marker at the start of R12 and place the eye between ST32 and ST33

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R21

R21: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R22: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}, FO and leave a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Legs

We will start by crocheting a circle using double crochet stitches; each circle will be connected with a slip stitch so we will not crochet in a spiral.

Front legs:

R1: MR – chain 2 ST, 11 x DC into MR, SL into 1st DC ST of R1 (Pic L1) – usually you would slip stitch into the top ST of the chain but I think the joint looks neater this way {12 incl. the chain}

R2: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R1 (Pic L2), 2x DC in each of the remaining STs, SL into 1st DC ST of R2 (Pic L3) {24 incl. the chain}

Change colour to light green after R2

R3: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R2, 1x DC in next ST, (2x DC in next ST, 1x DC in next ST) x 11, SL into 1st DC ST of R3 {36 incl. the chain}

Change colour to dark green after R3

R4: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R3, 1x DC in next 2 ST, (2x DC in next ST, 1x DC in next 2 ST) x 11, SL into 1st DC ST of R4 {48 incl. the chain} – do not FO and leave your hook in

R5: Fold the circle in half and SC the sides together to close the opening (Pic L4) – do not stuff the legs, FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Back legs: Follow the same pattern as for the front legs but skip R4; use the colours below for each round:

R1: cream colour

R2: light green colour

R3: dark green colour

How to Crochet the Tail

Starting from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: SC in each ST around {12}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

SC the opening together to close the tail – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

Do not stuff.

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

How to Crochet the Shell

Starting from the centre of the shell.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in each ST around {66}

R13: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R14: SC in each ST around {72}

R15: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R16: SC in each ST around {78}

R17: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {84}

R18: SC in each ST around {84}

R19: (SC in next 13 ST, INC) x 6 {90}

R20: SC in each ST around {90}

R21: SC in next 7 ST, INC, (SC in next 14 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {96}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {96}

R24: SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {90}

R25: SC in each ST around {90}

R26: SC in each ST around – Front loop only {90}, FO and weave the yarn end in

How to Crochet the Belly

We will crochet R1 of the belly into the back loops of R26 of the shell and will continue from there.

R1: Crochet into back loops of R26 of the shell – SC in next 90 ST {90} – Pic B1

R2: SC in next 8 ST, chain 8 ST, skip 8 ST, SC in next 14 ST, chain 6 ST, skip 6 ST, SC in next 5 ST, chain 8 ST, skip 8 ST, SC in next 5 ST, chain 6 ST, skip 6 ST, SC in next 14 ST, chain 8 ST, skip 8 ST, SC in next 8 ST {90} – this is to create gaps into which you will sew the legs and tail – Pic B2, B3, B4

R3: SC in each ST around {90}

R4: (SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {84}

R5: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {78}

R6: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R7: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 11, SC in next 2 ST {60}

R8: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 12 {48}

You can now sew the legs and tail to the body as shown in Pic B5 & B6 – insert the legs and tail into the gaps and sew them in from the inside of the belly

You can now start stuffing the shell and the belly

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 11, SC in next 1 ST {36}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R13: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R15: SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 1 ST {18}

R16: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R17: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Assemble Your Crochet Turtle Softie

Head and body:
Pin the head to the body first making sure that the head is in the centre between the front legs. I attached the head between R20 of the shell and R2 of the belly, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the head to the body adding more stuffing if needed.

You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free turtle crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.