I am so excited that my family of crochet loveys is growing with the new addition of this lovely hippo lovey blanket. If you would like to make this super cuddly hippo lovey for your baby or as a gift then check out my free crochet hippo lovey pattern below. It’s full of helpful photos and don’t forget that you can also watch my video turorials for extra help. 🙂
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – blanket’s diameter: 38cm (15 inches)
Finished size – hippo height: 9cm (3.5 inches)
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet hippo lovey pattern:
– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply
– 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
– 1x ball of purple yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 143 – (100g/212m)
– 1x ball of teal yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 107 – (100g/212m)
I love using the cotton and bamboo blend for this pattern as it makes the hippo lovey blanket super soft and cuddly. You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn here in US and here in UK.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet hippo lovey pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain
– STR CH: starting chain
– FSP: first space
– NSP: next space
– SSP: same space
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet hippo lovey pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate circles; you will then crochet the circles together. Use teal yarn for the inside of the ear and purple yarn for the outside of the ear.
For both the inside and outside of the ear:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3 (inside of the ear only): (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18} – FO and weave the yarn end in
R3 (outside of the ear only): (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {18} – don’t cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet with it when joining the circles together
To join the two circles of the ear together:
Place the inside and outside circle on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each circle is on the inside
R1: You will need to single crochet the two circles together:
– leave your hook in the last ST of R4 (outside circle) from the above pattern
– slip your hook through the next ST of the outside circle (purple one) – Pic E1
– and then slip your hook through any one ST of the inside circle (teal one) – Pic E2
– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together – Pic E3
– SC the corresponding STs of each circle together all the way round {18} – Pic E4
To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet 2STs on one side together and leave the other side open – Pic E5 & E6
How to Crochet the Bow
R1: Chain 6 STs
R2: 4xTC into the 1st CH ST of R1
R3: Chain 4 STs and SL ST into the 1st CH ST of R1
R4: Chain 5 STs
R5: 4xTC into the 1st CH ST of R1
R6: Chain 4 STs and SL ST into the 1st CH ST of R1
FO and wrap the yarn tail around the centre of the bow several times. Tie a knot with both yarn tails on the back of the bow.
Leave the yarn ends for sewing the bow to the head.
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet from the front of the head to the back.
R1: Chain 6 STs {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 5 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, turn around and now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}
R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}
R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {42}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}
R9-R13 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R14: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R15: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R16: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {43}
R17: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 7 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {50}
R18: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {57}
R19: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 30 ST {61}
R20-R26 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}
R27: SC in next 47 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {60}
R28: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R29: SC in each ST around {54}
R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R31: SC in each ST around {48}
R32: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R33: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R34: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R35: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R36: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R37: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R38: SC in each ST around {12}, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle and weave the yarn end in – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}
Change yarn to purple colour.
R6: SC in each ST around {27} – BLO
R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R10: SC in each ST around {24}
R11: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm.
R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R14: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R15: SC in each ST around {15}
R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
Stop stuffing the arm.
R17: SC in each ST around {14}
R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}
R19: SC in each ST around {13}
R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST {12}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R24: SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Blanket
Crochet the blanket as an 8 pointed star starting from the middle.
I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.
R1:
– magic ring – chain 4 – this is your starting chain – make sure you leave a very long tail when creating the magic ring as you will use it to sew the head to the blanket
– (1x double crochet into the ring, chain 1) x 7
– slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B3)
– at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B4)
– {16 including the slip stitch}
R2:
– slip stitch into the first space – between the starting chain and first double crochet in R1 (Pic B5)
– chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
– 1x double crochet into the same space
– (chain 2, 2x double crochet into the next space) x 7
– chain 2, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 sets of 2x double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B10)
– {32 including the slip stitch}
R3:
– slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B11)
– slip stitch into the first space (Pic B12)
– chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
– 1x double crochet into the same space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space (Pic B14)
– (2x double crochet into the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space) x 7
– slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– you will notice that we started to create the 8 points of the star in this round (Pic B17)
– {48 including the slip stitch}
R4:
– slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B18)
– chain 3 – this will be your starting chain in this round
– 2x double crochet into the first space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – watch out for this stitch because it is often hidden under the double crochet stitches you made into the space and can be easily missed (Pic B20 & B21)
– (skip 2 stitches, 1x double crochet in the next stitch, 2x double crochet in the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet in the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – again watch out for this stitch) x 7
– skip 2 stitches and slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– in this round, the 8 points of the star are becoming more prominent (Pic B24)
– {64 including the slip stitch}
Notice that there are 3 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point. Going forward, in each round, the number of double crochet stitches will increase by 1 on each side of the star point, e.g. in R5 you will have 4 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point.
I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top.
R5: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next ST, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {80 incl SL ST}
R6: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {96 incl SL ST}
R7: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {112 incl SL ST}
R8: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {128 incl SL ST}
R9: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {144 incl SL ST}
R10: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {160 incl SL ST}
R11: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {176 incl SL ST}
R12: Change yarn to teal colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {192 incl SL ST}
R13: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {208 incl SL ST}
R14: Change yarn to purple colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {224 incl SL ST}
R15: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 12 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {240 incl SL ST}
R16: Change yarn to teal colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 12 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 13 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 13 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {256 incl SL ST}
R17: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 14 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 14 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 14 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {272 incl SL ST}
R18: Change yarn to purple colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 14 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 15 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 15 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 15 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {288 incl SL ST}
R19: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 15 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 16 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 16 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 16 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {304 incl SL ST}
R20: Change yarn to teal colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 1, SC in next 15 STs, SC INC in next ST, 3x SC into FSP, SC INC in next ST, SC in next 34 STs, SC INC in next ST, (3x SC into NSP, SC INC in next ST, SC in next 34 STs, SC INC in next ST) x6, 3x SC into NSP, SC INC in next ST, SC in next 17 STs, SL ST into STR CH {328 incl SL ST} – this is the last round of your blanket
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Assembly:
Ears: Pin the ears to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R25 and R28 of the head, however you can attach them as per your preference.
Eye and nostril embroidery: Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R16 and R19 leaving 9 stitches in between the eyes (count INC as 2 stitches).
To embroider the nostrils, use the same teal yarn you used for the blanket. I embroidered the nostrils between R5 and R6 of the head.
Bow: Sew the bow you made earlier to the head on the side of the ear. Make sure you sew it well using a few stitches so it can’t be pulled off.
Attaching the head to the blanket:
Before attaching the head to the blanket, choose which way you would like the hippo to face. I like to attach the head so that the hippo is facing one of the points of the star. Preferably you want the bit, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the hippo.
It is important that the head is attached to the blanket firmly and securely as the baby the lovey is intended for is likely to pull on the head or the blanket often. I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 2 circles (Pic A1). If you feel the head is too wobbly, you can sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 3 circles so it is more steady.
But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions. You can attach the head the way you prefer. You can sew it together even in a cross and one circle.
First circle:
– use the yarn tail you were left with after creating the magic ring when starting the blanket
– thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail and pull it through the magic ring to the right side of the blanket
– use a pin to mark the centre of the head on the bottom side of it
– pull the needle through the stitches around the pin and then pull it through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring (Pic A2).
Second circle: Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew the bottom part of the double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket to the head (Pic A3).
Arms: Pin the arms to the blanket right by the side of the head and sew them securely (Pic A5). Weave the yarn tails in.
Free Crochet Hippo Lovey Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Lovey Blanket:
You have now finished your crochet lovey blanket! I hope you found my free crochet hippo lovey pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the hippo!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Snowman Pattern
Free Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern
Free Crochet Frog Pattern
This is NOT free pattern, please do not mislead people…I would buy it but not in this time.
Hi Ada, thank you for your message. My patterns are available for free online only. If you would prefer to have a printable version you can purchase one for a small fee from my Etsy store. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free patterns for everyone to enjoy.
Thank you.
Love, Petra x