I was contacted by a few of you asking if I had a pattern for the cute Amigurumi hippo featured on my website. Sadly, I didn’t have one available at that time but I do have one now…yay!!! I am thrilled to introduce you to Hattie the Hippo! I really enjoyed working on this free crochet hippo pattern and to tell you the truth…it has become one of my favourites! So give it a go and let me know if it is one of your favourites too! 🙂
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when seated: 24cm / 9.5 inches
Finished size from ears to toes: 30cm / 12 inches
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet hippo pattern:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of beige yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 05 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 20 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 62 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE
or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet hippo pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet hippo pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate circles; you will then crochet the circles together.
For both the inside and outside of the ear:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5 (inside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30} – FO and weave the yarn end in
R5 (outside of the ear only): (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {30} – don’t cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet with it when joining the circles together
To join the two circles of the ear together:
Place the inside and outside circle on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each circle is on the inside
R1: You will need to crochet the two circles together (Pic E1, E2, E3, E4):
– leave your hook in the last ST of R6 from the previous pattern section
– slip your hook through the first ST of the outside circle (beige one)
– and then slip your hook through the first ST of the inside circle (pink one)
– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together
– SC the corresponding STs of each circle together all the way round {30}
To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet 2STs on one side together and leave the other side open (Pic E5, E6)
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet from the front of the head to the back
R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}
R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}
R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {42}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {48}
R9: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 3 ST {54}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {60}
R11: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 4 ST {66}
R12-R19 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R20: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R21: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R22: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R23: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 7 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {55}
R24: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {62}
R25: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {69} – leave the stitch marker in at the start of R25 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R26: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 37 ST {73}
R27: SC in each ST around {73}
R28: SC in next 46 ST, INC, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 ST {76}
R29-R35 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {76}
R36: (SC in next 17 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {72}
R37: SC in each ST around {72}
R38: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R39: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R40: SC in each ST around {60}
R41: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R42: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R43: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– place eyes between rounds R25 and R26
– first eye – count 9 stitches from your marker at the start of R25 and place the eye between ST9 and ST10
– second eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R25 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H9)
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H10)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H11)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H13)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H15)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H16) and continue crocheting R44
R44: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R45: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R46: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R47: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R48: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R49: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
How to Crochet the Nostrils
Surface crochet the nostrils onto the head – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet animal nostrils for Amigurumi
Step 1: Mark the place where you would like to crochet the nostrils – you can use pins with large heads, stitch markers or a string (Pic N1)
I placed the pins between R12 and R14 as follows:
– First nostril: between 4th and 9th ST from the start of R12
– Second nostril: between 17th and 22nd ST from the start of R12
Step 2: You can now surface crochet the nostrils following the below pattern:
– Insert your hook into first ST (between red and first blue pin)
– Grab your yarn and pull it through the stitch, chain 1xST – Pic N2
– 2xDC in next ST (between first and second blue pin) – Pic N3
– 2xDC in next ST (between second and third blue pin)
– 1xSL in last ST (between third blue and red pin)
– Cut the yarn, pull on the yarn tails tight and weave them in.
– Repeat for the second nostril
How to Crochet the Body
Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R13: SC in each ST around {72}
R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R15: SC in each ST around {78}
R16: SC in next 6 ST, INC, (SC in next 12 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {84}
R17-R22 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {84}
R23: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {78}
R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R26: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
Change yarn to pink colour
R27: SC in each ST around {72}
R28: SC in each ST around – BLO {72}
R29: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R30: SC in each ST around {66} – change yarn to white colour after ST1 in R30
R31: SC in each ST around {66}
R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
You can now start stuffing the body
R33: SC in each ST around {60} – change yarn to pink colour after ST 2 in R33
R34: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R35: SC in each ST around {54}
R36: SC in each ST around {54} – change yarn to white colour after ST 2 in R36
R37: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R38: SC in each ST around {48}
R39: SC in each ST around {48} – change yarn to pink colour after ST 3 in R39
R40: SC in each ST around {48}
R41: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R42: SC in each ST around {42} – change yarn to white colour after ST 3 in R42
R43-R44: (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R45: SC in each ST around {42} – change yarn to pink colour after ST 3 in R45
R46: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R47: SC in each ST around {36}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to crochet the skirt:
Return to R28 of the body, where you single crocheted in BLO. Attach new strand of yarn to the first front loop as you will now crochet into the front loops of R28.
R1: SC in each ST around (Pic S1), SL into the first ST of this round {72}
R2: Chain 3 STs, 3x DC into the first stitch, 4x DC into each ST all the way round (Pic S2), SL into the top of the chain you made at the start of this round
FO and weave both yarn ends in.
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
Change yarn to beige colour
R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R11: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R12: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R15: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R18: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R19-R21 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R31: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
R32-R33 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}
R34: SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Legs
Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 13 ST, INC) x 3 {45}
Change yarn to beige colour
R9-R12 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {45}
R13: (SC in next 13 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {42}
R14: SC in each ST around {42}
R15: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
You can now start stuffing the leg
R16: SC in each ST around {36}
R17: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R18: SC in each ST around {30}
R19: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R20: SC in each ST around {24}
R21: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R22: SC in each ST around {21}
R23: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R24: SC in each ST around {18}
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R26: SC in each ST around {17}
R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R28-R31 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R32: SC the opening together to close the leg
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Tail
Crochet from the end of the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R5: SC in each ST around {12}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R9: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}
R10: SC in each ST around {18}
R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}
R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
Stuff just a little bit so the tail stays almost flat.
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Assembly
Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure that they look symmetrical from the front and the back. Sew the ears to the head. I attached them between R36 and R39.
Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the body will be attached towards the back of the head, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.
Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed them between R36 and R42 of the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed them between R2 and R10 of the body.
Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit your toy up to make sure the tail is not placed too low or too high. Sew the tail to the body and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R13 and R19.
Eye lash embroidery: To embroider the eye lashes you need to use a long piece of black thread yarn.
Free Crochet Hippo Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:
You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet hippo pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the hippo!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Dinosaur Pattern
Free Crochet Sheep Pattern
Free Crochet Caterpillar Pattern
These are awesome. I’ve made the puppy x3 and I am almost done with the Hippo. I have 13 grandchildren between December and February I now have 2 great granddaughters. Everyone loves them and the adults treat them as heirlooms. I have request for the dragon and dinasour from grandsons The patterns are accurate and easy to follow. I’m using Craftets Secret Big Idea 100% acrylic 16oz and 3.0 crochet hook. They turn out to be 15 to 18 inces sitting tall and that makes them just the right size for hugs and nap/nightime snuggles. I will be purchasing the downloadable patterns. Thank you for such wonderful patterns.
Hi Venes, thank you so so much for your lovely and very detailed feedback! 🙂 I am thrilled that you love my patterns and are making so many of my toys for your family. They definitely keep you busy but I know there is nothing better than a handmade present! 🙂 I hope they will treasure them forever.
And many thanks for purchasing my PDF patterns and for your support! 🙂
Love, Petra