Free Pig Crochet Lovey Pattern: Shell Border Blanket

This free pig crochet lovey pattern was first published as a ‘Mystery Crochet Along‘ on my blog and you would not believe the positive response I received! I was flooded by so many kind messages and so much love, I felt a bit emotional to be honest! Everyone loved this crochet pig lovey, especially the shell border blanket that makes it look super sweet.

What I love about this crochet pig snuggler pattern is that you can easily customise the blanket border. You can go for a simpler shell border for a baby boy or choose a more luscious look for a baby girl.

So if you are looking to make a special gift for your baby or are searching for a perfect baby shower gift, then you must try this pattern.

Scroll down to view the full written pattern.

​Free Pig Crochet Lovey Pattern – Before You Get Started

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – blanket: 33cm (13 inches) x 33cm (13 inches)

Finished size – pig height: 9cm (3.5 inches)

Materials and Equipment

Type of yarn:

– this pig pattern will work nicely with 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton/acrylic or cotton/bamboo

– I recommend using this yarn weight: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply or Light Worsted #3 = DK

– you can also use Worsted Yarn #4 but your crochet lovey will be a bit larger than specified above

– have a read of my Best yarn for Amigurumi crochet tutorial to find out more about what types of yarn are the best for making crochet toys.

Yarn I used for this free pig crochet lovey pattern:

– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply

– 100% cotton

– 2x ball of James C. Brett – It’s 100% Pure DK Cotton – colour pink IC 06 – (100g/215m)

– 1x ball of James C. Brett – It’s 100% Pure DK Cotton – colour white IC 09 – (100g/215m)

Other materials used:

– polyester fibre fill

– a long piece of black embroidery thread yarn to make eyes

Crochet hook:

– I used 3 mm hook size = C/2

– if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller

– I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used:

• scissors
• tapestry needle
• stitch marker
• pins with large heads

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Pattern Abbreviations

This free pig crochet lovey pattern is written using US terms

– MR: magic ring

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: treble crochet stitch

– CH: chain

– STR CH: starting chain

– CR SP: corner space

– SL ST: slip stitch

– INV SL ST: invisible slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

– BLO: back loops only

– BBO: back bumps only

– FO: fasten off

– INV FO: invisible fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

I Need Help with this Free Pig Crochet Lovey Pattern

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

Need more help?

The fastest way to get help with this free lovey crochet pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this free pig crochet lovey pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How Can I Download this Crochet Pig Security Blanket Pattern?

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable.

But you can download the ad-free and printable pdf pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Mix and Match Your Crochet Lovey

Do you like this free pig crochet lovey pattern but would like to mix and match the piggy with a different blanket? Then you can explore my crochet comforter patterns and pick from these adorable blankets:

• Simple Square Lovey blanket
• 8 Point Star Lovey Blanket
• 12 Point Star Lovey Blanket
• Granny Square Lovey Blanket
• Even Moss Stitch Lovey Blanket

Free Pig Crochet Lovey Pattern – Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free pattern below. I have included lots of step-by-step photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions.

Some sections of the pattern may also include video tutorials with some basic crochet techniques needed for that specific part of the pattern.

I have also explained how to assemble your crochet lovey to help you reach the finishing line with a big smile on your face! 🙂

We will start with the body parts first before moving onto the blanket. All parts of this pig lovey crochet pattern are made using basic stitches which are single crochet and double crochet stitches.

How to Crochet the Pig Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards; use pink yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: SC in each ST around {6}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 3 {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in each ST around {15}

R7: SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}

R8: (SC in next 5 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {21}

R9: SC in each ST around {21}

Do not stuff and fold flat instead

FO leaving a long tail for sewing

How to Crochet the Pig Snout

R1-R5: crochet around a foundation chain and use the invisible slip stitch to join rounds

R6-R8: crochet in a continous round without slip stitching to join the rounds

Use pink yarn

R1: chain 6 STs {6}

R2: SC in next 5 CHs starting from 2nd CH from the hook (go through back bump of each CH as well), now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next CH, SC in next 3 CHs, INC in last CH {12}

Watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R2. I crochet in continous round in this video so just watch the first two rounds of the video to help out with this pattern.

R3: INV SL ST into first ST of R2, INC in the same first ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last 2 STs {18} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible slip stitch

R4: INV SL ST into first ST of R3, SC in the same first ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 2 {24}

R5: crochet this round loosely as you will need to crochet into the back bumps in the next round – INV SL ST into first ST of R4, SC in the same first ST, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 2, INV FO and weave the yarn end in {30} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet invisible fasten off

If you are struggling to insert your hook into the back bumps then use a smaller hook – e.g. a 2mm instead of a 3mm hook. Alternatively, you can crochet into BLO instead of BBO.

R6: create a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the back bump of ST22 of R5 and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round), SC all the way round in BBO {30} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet into back bumps

R7: you will carry on to crochet in a continous round so you will no longer use invisible slip stitch to join rounds – SC in each ST around {30}

R8: SC in each ST around {30}, INV FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Do not stuff at this stage

How to Crochet the Pig Arms

Start from the bottom of the arm upwards

Start with white yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: crochet this round loosely as you will need to crochet into the back bumps of this round in R6 – (SC in next 7 STs, INC in next ST) x 3 {27}

R6: BBO – SC in each ST around {27} – if you are struggling to insert your hook into the back bumps then use a smaller hook – e.g. a 2mm instead of a 3mm hook. Alternatively, you can crochet into BLO instead of BBO.

R7: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease in Amigurumi

R8: SC in each ST around {24}

R9: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Change yarn to pink colour

R10: SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

Start stuffing the arm

R12 – R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R14: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R15: SC in each ST around {15}

R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

R17: SC in each ST around {14}

R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}

Stop stuffing the arm

R19: SC in each ST around {13}

R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}

R21 – R25 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R26: SC the opening together to close the arm {5} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn end in

How to Crochet the Pig Head

Crochet as a ball, use pink yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC in next ST) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 6 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC in next ST) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC in next ST, (SC in next 8 STs, INC in next ST) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11 – R20 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R21: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R22: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R23: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R24: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

Start stuffing the head and keep stuffing as you go along

R25: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R26: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R27: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R28: you will attach the arms to the head in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

Any colour changes on the arms should be facing upwards while attaching the arms, unlike in the video tutorial.

– SC in next 4 STs

– SC in next 5 STs while attaching the first arm

– SC in next 4 STs

– SC in next 5 STs while attaching the second arm {18}

R29: BLO – (SC in next ST, DEC (note this is a standard DEC)) x 6 {12}

R30: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle and leave a very long tail for sewing the head to the blanket.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Lovey Blanket

Crochet the blanket as a square starting from the middle.

I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the detailed pattern.

You can also watch this step by step video tutorial on How to start a square crochet lovey blanket

Crochet with pink yarn

R1: MR – chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a corner space), 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the magic ring, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B1 & B2) {20 including the slip stitch}

R2: Chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 1x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R1 (Pic B3 & B4), double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, 1x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 3 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {28 including the slip stitch}

R3: Slip stitch into next chain (Pic B5 & B6), chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R2, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 5 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 6 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {44 including the slip stitch}

R4: Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space), 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R3, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again, double crochet into next 9 stitches, 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again, double crochet into next 10 stitches, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {60 including the slip stitch}

I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top of this page

R5: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 14 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {76 incl SL ST}

R6: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 17 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 18 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {92 incl SL ST}

R7: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 21 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 22 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {108 incl SL ST}

R8: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 25 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 26 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {124 incl SL ST}

R9: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 29 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 30 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {140 incl SL ST}

R10: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 33 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 34 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {156 incl SL ST}

R11: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 37 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 38 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {172 incl SL ST}

R12: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 41 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 42 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {188 incl SL ST}

R13: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 45 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 46 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {204 incl SL ST}

R14: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 49 STs, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 50 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {220 incl SL ST}

How to Crochet the Shell Border

You will now start working on the shell stitch border using the white yarn.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a shell border

R15:

Side 1: SL ST into next CH using the white yarn, SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST (Pic B7), skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 2: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 3: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs

Side 4: SC into CR SP, (skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs, SC in next ST) x 8, skip 2 STs, 7x DC in next ST, skip 2 STs and the SL ST from the beginning of this round, SL ST into SC you made into CR SP at the beginning of this round {288 incl SL ST} (Pic B8)

R16:

New corner: CH 4, 1x DC in ST at the base of the chain – that is the SC you made into the CR SP in the previous round, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST (Pic B9)

Side 1: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell) (Pic B10)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 2: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 3: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 4: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell) and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {312 incl SL ST)

R17:

Side 4: the shell you will now create will be in fact the last shell on Side 4 – CH 3, 6x DC into CH1 space

Side 1: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, 7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15, (7x DC into CH1 space (Pic B11), SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 8, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 2: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 3: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 4: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R15) x 9, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {320 incl SL ST) (Pic B12)

R18:

Side 4: you will again start towards the end of side 4, CH 4, 1x DC into the last SC in R17 – this is the stitch that sits before your starting chain, CH5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST (Pic B13)

Side 1: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 2: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 3: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 9, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell)

New corner: 1x DC in the SC you made into CR SP, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST, CH 3, 1x DC in same ST, CH 1, 1x DC in same ST

Side 4: (CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell), 1x DC in next ST (this ST is the SC you made in between the shells), CH 1, 1x DC in same ST) x 8, CH 5, skip 7 STs (which is the shell) and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {344 incl SL ST) (Pic B14)

R19: this is the last round of the blanket

Side 4: the next two shells you will create will be the last two shells on Side 4 – (CH 3, 6x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17, 7x DC into CH1 space (Pic B15)

Side 1: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, 7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 9, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 2: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 10, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 3: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 10, 7x DC into CH1 space

Side 4: SC into CH3 space = CR SP, (7x DC into CH1 space, SC into the top of 4th DC in the next shell from R17) x 9, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH, INV FO {352} (Pic B16) – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off

Free Pig Crochet Lovey Pattern – Assembly

Ears: Pin the ears to the top of the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back first before sewing them on. I placed the ears between R3 and R11 of the head, however you can attach them as per your preference.

Snout: Pin the snout to the head making sure it’s in the centre of the face. Sew the snout to the head while stuffing it gradually. I placed the snout between R14 and R24 of the head.

Eye and nostril embroidery (Pic A1): Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R12 and R14 leaving 4 stitches in between the eyes. (Pic A2).

Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider eyes on Amigurumi. The eyes in the video are slightly different but the technique is the same.

To embroider the nostrils, use the same white yarn you used for the blanket border.

Attaching the head to the blanket: Before attaching the head to the blanket, chose which way you would like the piggy to face. I like to attach the head diagonally so the piggy is facing one of the corners. Preferably you want the corner, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the piggy.

It is important that the head is attached to the blanket firmly and securely as the baby the lovey is intended for is likely to pull on the head or the blanket often. I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 2 circles (Pic A3). This way the lovey can’t be pulled apart.

But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions below. You can attach the head the way you prefer.

First circle: Thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail you were left with after finishing the head. Pull the needle through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring (Pic A4). Then go back into the head through the centre of the closing circle.

Second circle: Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew the head to the top part of the double crochet stitches in R1 of the blanket. Use the front loops of R28 of the head to pull your stitches through.

You have now finished your pig baby blanket, which will make a perfect gift for any baby who likes soft cuddles! I hope you enjoyed making this crochet snuggler and found my pig lovey crochet pattern easy to follow.