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Are you hunting for a free crochet shark pattern? Then I may have just what you are looking for! This cute Amigurumi shark would surely be cast the main character in the child friendly version of Jaws. So give this pattern a try and let this cuddly crochet toy become the star of your little one’s life. 🙂
Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – length: 21cm / 8.5 inches
Finished size – height: 12.5cm / 5 inches
Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
– 1x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 80 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 62 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: a long piece of black thread yarn for embroidery, polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 10mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
MR: magic ring
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
HDC: half double crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain stitch
SL: slip stitch
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
BLO: back loops only
FO: fasten off
TO: turn over
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet shark pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Head and the Body
Crochet from the front of the head towards the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in each ST around {30}
R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R9: SC in each ST around {42}
R10: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R11: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R12: SC in each ST around {54}
R13: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {60} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R17: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R18-R28 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R29: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 8 ST {61} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R30-R32 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}
R33: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 7 ST {56}
R34-R35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}
R36: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 6 ST {51}
R37-R38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {51}
R39: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 5 ST {46}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head and the body well first
– place the eyes between rounds R14 and R15
– first eye – place the eye between ST15 and ST16 from the start of R14
– second eye – place the eye between ST45 and ST46 from the start of R14
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing (Pic H4)
– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn end in (Pic H7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic H8)
– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R40
– stuff gradually as you go along
R40-R41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {46}
R42: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 ST {41}
R43: SC in each ST around {41}
R44: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 ST {36}
R45: SC in each ST around {36}
R46: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 2 ST {31}
R47: SC in each ST around {31}
R48: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next ST {26}
R49-R50 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}
R51: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {24}
R52-R53 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R54: SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {22}
Stop stuffing the body
R55: SC in each ST around {22}
R56: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {20}
Do not fasten off and continue to crochet the tail as per the pattern in the next section
How to Crochet the Tail
Continue to crochet from R56 in the previous section, crochet as two separate tail fins
– Split R56 into two parts
– Each part will have 10 stitches and will form one tail fin
– Do not cut off the yarn and continue to crochet the first tail fin in a spiral
– Do not stuff the tail fins
First tail fin:
R57: SC in next 10 ST {10} – Pic T1 & T2
R58: INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST {14}
R59: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 4 ST, SC in next 3 ST {18}
R60: SC in each ST around {18}
R61: INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC {18}
R62: SC in next 10 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST {20}
R63-R65 (3 rounds): INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC {20}
R66: 2x INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 4 ST, 2x INV DEC {18}
R67: 3x INV DEC, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {14}
R68: 3x INV DEC, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {9}
Do not stuff, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn end in
Second tail fin:
– Go back to R56 and attach a new strand of yarn to the first stitch of the second part of R56
– Continue to crochet R57 (Pic T3) to R68 using the pattern below:
R57: SC in next 10 ST {10}
R58: SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {14}
R59: SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 4 ST, SC in next 5 ST {18}
R60: SC in each ST around {18}
R61: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC {18}
R62: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}
R63-R65 (3 rounds): INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC {20}
R66: 2x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, 2x INV DEC {18}
R67: 3x INV DEC, SC in next 2 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 2 ST, 3x INV DEC {14}
R68: 3x INV DEC, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {9}
Do not stuff, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn ends in
How to Crochet the Belly
Crochet in rows, rather than in rounds
R1: Chain 6 ST {6}
R2: SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {5}
R3: Chain 1, TO, INC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {10}
R4: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {11}
R5: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 10 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {12}
R6: Chain 1, TO, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 starting from 2nd CH from the hook {15}
R7: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 14 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {16}
R8: Chain 1, TO, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 starting from 2nd CH from the hook {18}
R9: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 17 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {19}
R10: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 18 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {20}
R11: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 19 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {21}
R12-R13 (2 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {21}
R14: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 20 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {22}
R15: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {23}
R16-R17 (2 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {23}
R18: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 22 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {24}
R19: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {25}
R20-R22 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 25 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {25}
R23: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 7 ST, DEC, SC in next 7 ST {23}
R24-R26 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {23}
R27: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 7 ST, DEC, SC in next 6 ST {21}
R28-R30 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {21}
R31: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 6 ST {19}
R32: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 19 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {19}
R33: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 5 ST {17}
R34: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 17 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {17}
R35: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 4 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 4 ST {15}
R36: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 15 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {15}
R37: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 3 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 3 ST {13}
R38: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 13 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {13}
R39: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 2 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 2 ST {11}
R40: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 11 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {11}
R41: Chain 1, TO, SC in next ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next ST {9}
R42: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {9}
R43: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next 5 ST, DEC {7}
R44: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {7}
R45: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next 3 ST, DEC {5}
R46: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {5}
R47: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next ST, DEC {3}, DO NOT FO
You will now single crochet all the way round the belly to create a neat edging:
– continue from where you finished in R47 and SC all the way round coming back to the beginning of R47
– when crocheting the edging on the sides of the belly you need to SC into each row (Pic B1)
– you should end up with 97 stitches in total but don’t worry if you have one or two stitches less or more
How to Crochet the Back Fin
Crochet from the top of the fin towards the body
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}
R7: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}
R8: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}
R9: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}
R10: SC in next 9 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 9 ST {22}
R11: SC in next 10 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 10 ST {24}
R12: SC in next 11 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 11 ST {26}
R13: SC in each ST around {26}
R14: SC in next 13 ST, do not finish this round {13}
FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff
How to Crochet the Side Fins
Crochet from the point of the fin towards the body
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST {14}
R6: INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST {14}
R7: SC in each ST around {14}
R8: SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST {16}
R9: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}
R10: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC {16}
R11: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}
R12: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}
R13: SC in each ST around {20}
R14: SC in next 10 ST, do not finish this round {10}
FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff
How to assemble Your Crochet Shark Softie
Belly: Pin the belly to the body making sure it is centred and the same distance from the eyes on each side. Then sew it to the body.
Back fin: First pin the fin to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the body from the front, back and top. Then sew it to the body. Do not stuff the fin. I placed the fin between R25 & R39.
Side fins: First pin the fins to the side of the body making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew them to the body and do not stuff them. I placed the fins between R27 & R38.
Gills and nostrils embroidery: Embroider the gills and nostrils using a thin black yarn as shown in the photos below. I embroidered the nostrils in R6 and the gills between R22 and R26.
You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free shark crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.
Did You Enjoy Making this Amigurumi Shark?
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Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet shark pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet dolphin pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Free crochet jellyfish pattern
Or explore more of my crochet sea animals patterns. These charming sea creatures will make a perfect gift for your family and friends!
Happy crocheting!
Am I able to sell these sharks? If I give credit in every post?
Hi Frankie, no problem at all. You can sell the finished toys you made using my patterns as long as you credit me as the original designer please.
Thank you. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
Me ha encantado el patrón,fácil de seguir,solo me falta montarlo.
se podría pegar la barriga.
muchas gracias
Hi Francisca, thank you and happy to hear you liked the pattern. Unfortunately the belly of the shark needs to be sewn on.
Love,
Petra x
gracias,lo he cosido y fenomenal .*
Thank you, happy you liked the final result. 🙂
Love,
Petra x
im knitting the shark pattern now, Im finding it very easy to follow your instructions and thankyou very much. Miriam
Hi Miriam,
so happy to hear you are finding the shark pattern easy to follow. And you are very welcome! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
hi Petra, ty for the pattern. I had the correct number of sts around for the belly but it wasn’t wide enough. starting the row 2nd ch from hook didn’t give me the st count so I started in first ch but still came up narrow. any thoughts?
Hi Brenda, it is difficult to say what could be the problem without seeing your work. Would you be able to send me some photos to info@cuddlystitchescraft.com? It would help me to spot the issue.
Thank you.
Love,
Petra x
When sewing on the belly do I use grey or white yarn?
Thank you!
Hi Sandy, you need to use white yarn.
Love,
Petra x
oh my goodness! the shark turned out so cute! I love him! my grandson will totally love this guy! thank you so much for this pattern.
You are very welcome Janice, I’m happy you like the shark pattern! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
I’m struggling with row 29. I have the right number of stitches on the row below it (66) but every time i get to the end, instead of the last 8 SC’s I have 9, for a total stitch count of 62, no matter how many times I frog it or how carefully i count. even using stitch markers at every decrease it still happened. What am i doing wrong?
Hi there, I’m sorry you are having a trouble with the shark pattern. I checked the stitch count and the pattern instructions are correct. It’s difficult to say where you are going wrong without seeing your work. Did you make sure you decrease 5 times in round 29?
Love,
Petra x
Hi, i’ve started this pattern but i’ve been having trouble with row 10. I’ve done it twice but every time i count there’s 47 stitches instead of 48. Is there a better way to keep track of the stitches or fix this?
Hi Miranda, thank you for your message. I checked the pattern and it says: R10: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
I think the issue is that you are missing one increase, there should be 6 increases in total in this round.
I have re-written R10 for you here so it’s easier to follow:
R10: SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs {48}
I hope this helps but please let me know if you still have any questions.
Love, Petra x
Could I put weighted polyfill beads in it along with stuffing?
Also, you use safety eyes- would it be possible to use buttons or embroidery to make the eyes?
This is my first plushie, so pardon if these questions are obvious.
Hi Travis, yes, you can definitely use beads when stuffing or buttons/embroidery instead of the safetye eyes. 🙂
Love, Petra x
Hi Petra,
As always, I love your patterns and appreciate the free gifts! I’m about to start a shark (just for the fun of it) so I read over the web page and noticed that the graphic for downloading the pattern (the one with all the pages spread and clickable to buy a pattern) has a typo: “donwload here” instead of “download here” Just thought you’d like to know. It’s so hard to proofread your own work, I know!
Thanks again for the free gifts!
Sarah @heirloominthemaking
Hi Sarah, thank you so much for drawing my attention to it! I have been using that graphic for such a long time and never noticed the typo! 🙁 It is usually the ones that stand out the most that are so easy to miss. Thank you again! Now, I have to correct them all! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
I have just completed the shark and everyone loves it. It is a gift for my daughter’s friend and already I have been asked to make another one! I used a plush yarn as they wanted a plushy type toy, and it is quite big, but that’s great 🙂
Hi Tracy, thank you so much for your comment. I am really pleased you were happy with the shark and everyone loves it! :-)And yes, the size will be much bigger if you use plush yarn but it must be extra cuddly! 🙂
Love, Petra x
Lindo patrón😍 gracias por compartirlo 🇬🇹🌷
Hi Lucrecia, thank you for your comment and I am happy to hear you like my pattern. 🙂 And you are more than welcome! 🙂
Love, Petra x
Buenos días desde Argentina Quisiera saber el significado de la abreviatura “TO” y si se tratara de un punto especial si habría un vídeo para ese punto.
Muchas gracias por compartir tus patrones, te enviaré fotos al terminarlo. Saludos
Hi Luciana, TO is short for turn over, which means that you need to turn your work upside down and crochet in the opposite direction. The aim is to basically crochet from one side to the other, then turn your work and crochet back again.Unfortunately I don’t have any specific video tutorials on this.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions please.
Love, Petra x
Hola quisiera saber que significa “INV DEC” POR FAVOR
Hi Claudia, INV DEC means invisible decrease. Here is a link to a video tutorial that shows how to do the invisible decrease.
https://www.cuddlystitchescraft.com/invisible-decrease-amigurumi-right/
Love, Petra x
I have just started to crochet the belly. I see TO means turn over but I’m not sure what that means and I can only find instructions on the internet for how to “turn”, nothing on what it means to “turn over”. Can you help?
Hi there, turn over means that you need to turn your work upside down and crochet in the opposite direction. The aim is to basically crochet from one side to the other, then turn your work and crochet back again.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions please.
Love, Petra x
I am using thicker plush soft yarn but it’s turning out to be life size 😏! Can I cut the pattern in half? Like instead of 4 stitches I do 2 etc.
Hi Nadia, thank you for your comment. Yes, using a plush yarn would make the shark much bigger as I used a different type of yarn when designing the pattern. You can try adjusting the pattern although it may not look exactly the same as the number of rows would need to change also. If you would like the shark to be of a smaller size, I would recommend changing the yarn and using the yarn weight recommended in the pattern.
Love, Petra x
I am having trouble with Row 4 of the Cuddly Shark and the word INC: SC in next ST, INC [do I do 2 single crochets in one stitch at this point], then (SC in next 2 ST, INC) [do I do 2 more stitches with 2 stiches in one stitch) x 5, SC in next ST {24}. I end up with about 30 stitches! Please help me as I am having to make this for my grandson….
Thank you in advance.
Hi Kate, thank you for your message and I am happy to help.
Let me explain in more detail:
SC in next ST, INC = do one single crochet in next stitch and then do two single crochets in next stitch. So basically INC means that you do two single crochets into the same stitch.
SC in next 2ST, INC = do one single crochet in next stitch, one single crochet in next stitch and then do two single crochets in next stitch. You will repeat this section 5 times.
SC in next ST = do one single crochet in last stitch
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have more questions.
Love, Petra x
Thank you for the pattern. My nephew will love it.
Hi Tina, you are more then welcome! I hope your nephew loves it. 🙂
Love, Petra