Are you hunting for a free crochet shark pattern? Then I may have just what you are looking for! This cute Amigurumi shark would surely be cast the main character in the child friendly version of Jaws. So give this pattern a try and let this cuddly crochet toy become the star of your little one’s life. 🙂

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – length: 21cm / 8.5 inches

Finished size – height: 12.5cm / 5 inches

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend

– 1x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 80 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 62 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of black thread yarn for embroidery, polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 10mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

TO: turn over

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet shark pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Head and the Body

Crochet from the front of the head towards the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in each ST around {30}

R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R9: SC in each ST around {42}

R10: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R11: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R12: SC in each ST around {54}

R13: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {60} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R17: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R18-R28 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R29: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 8 ST {61} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R30-R32 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}

R33: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 7 ST {56}

R34-R35 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}

R36: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 6 ST {51}

R37-R38 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {51}

R39: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 5 ST {46}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head and the body well first

– place the eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – place the eye between ST15 and ST16 from the start of R14

– second eye – place the eye between ST45 and ST46 from the start of R14

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing (Pic H4)

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn end in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic H8)

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R40

– stuff gradually as you go along

R40-R41 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {46}

R42: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 ST {41}

R43: SC in each ST around {41}

R44: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 ST {36}

R45: SC in each ST around {36}

R46: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 2 ST {31}

R47: SC in each ST around {31}

R48: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next ST {26}

R49-R50 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R51: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {24}

R52-R53 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R54: SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {22}

Stop stuffing the body

R55: SC in each ST around {22}

R56: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC, SC in next ST {20}

Do not fasten off and continue to crochet the tail as per the pattern in the next section

How to Crochet the Tail

Continue to crochet from R56 in the previous section, crochet as two separate tail fins

– Split R56 into two parts

– Each part will have 10 stitches and will form one tail fin

– Do not cut off the yarn and continue to crochet the first tail fin in a spiral

– Do not stuff the tail fins

First tail fin:

R57: SC in next 10 ST {10} – Pic T1 & T2

R58: INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST {14}

R59: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 4 ST, SC in next 3 ST {18}

R60: SC in each ST around {18}

R61: INV DEC, SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC {18}

R62: SC in next 10 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST {20}

R63-R65 (3 rounds): INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC {20}

R66: 2x INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 4 ST, 2x INV DEC {18}

R67: 3x INV DEC, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {14}

R68: 3x INV DEC, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {9}

Do not stuff, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn end in

Second tail fin:

– Go back to R56 and attach a new strand of yarn to the first stitch of the second part of R56

– Continue to crochet R57 (Pic T3) to R68 using the pattern below:

R57: SC in next 10 ST {10}

R58: SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {14}

R59: SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 4 ST, SC in next 5 ST {18}

R60: SC in each ST around {18}

R61: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC {18}

R62: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}

R63-R65 (3 rounds): INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC {20}

R66: 2x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, 2x INV DEC {18}

R67: 3x INV DEC, SC in next 2 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 2 ST, 3x INV DEC {14}

R68: 3x INV DEC, SC in next ST, INC in next ST, 3x INV DEC {9}

Do not stuff, close the hole with a needle and weave the yarn ends in

How to Crochet the Belly

Crochet in rows, rather than in rounds

R1: Chain 6 ST {6}

R2: SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {5}

R3: Chain 1, TO, INC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {10}

R4: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {11}

R5: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 10 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {12}

R6: Chain 1, TO, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 starting from 2nd CH from the hook {15}

R7: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 14 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {16}

R8: Chain 1, TO, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 starting from 2nd CH from the hook {18}

R9: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 17 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {19}

R10: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 18 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {20}

R11: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 19 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {21}

R12-R13 (2 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {21}

R14: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 20 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {22}

R15: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {23}

R16-R17 (2 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {23}

R18: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 22 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {24}

R19: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, INC in last ST {25}

R20-R22 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 25 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {25}

R23: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 7 ST, DEC, SC in next 7 ST {23}

R24-R26 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 23 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {23}

R27: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 7 ST, DEC, SC in next 6 ST {21}

R28-R30 (3 rounds): Chain 1, TO, SC in next 21 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {21}

R31: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 6 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 6 ST {19}

R32: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 19 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {19}

R33: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 5 ST {17}

R34: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 17 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {17}

R35: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 4 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 4 ST {15}

R36: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 15 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {15}

R37: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 3 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 3 ST {13}

R38: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 13 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {13}

R39: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 2 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next 2 ST {11}

R40: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 11 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {11}

R41: Chain 1, TO, SC in next ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, DEC, SC in next 5 ST, DEC, SC in next ST {9}

R42: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {9}

R43: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next 5 ST, DEC {7}

R44: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 7 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {7}

R45: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next 3 ST, DEC {5}

R46: Chain 1, TO, SC in next 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook {5}

R47: Chain 1, TO, DEC starting from 2nd CH from the hook, SC in next ST, DEC {3}, DO NOT FO

You will now single crochet all the way round the belly to create a neat edging:

– continue from where you finished in R47 and SC all the way round coming back to the beginning of R47

– when crocheting the edging on the sides of the belly you need to SC into each row (Pic B1)

– you should end up with 97 stitches in total but don’t worry if you have one or two stitches less or more

How to Crochet the Back Fin

Crochet from the top of the fin towards the body

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: SC in next 7 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R7: INV DEC, SC in next 6 ST, INC, SC in next 7 ST {16}

R8: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}

R9: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}

R10: SC in next 9 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 9 ST {22}

R11: SC in next 10 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 10 ST {24}

R12: SC in next 11 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 11 ST {26}

R13: SC in each ST around {26}

R14: SC in next 13 ST, do not finish this round {13}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff

How to Crochet the Side Fins

Crochet from the point of the fin towards the body

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST {14}

R6: INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC, SC in next 6 ST {14}

R7: SC in each ST around {14}

R8: SC in next 6 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 6 ST {16}

R9: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}

R10: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC {16}

R11: SC in next 7 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 7 ST {18}

R12: SC in next 8 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 8 ST {20}

R13: SC in each ST around {20}

R14: SC in next 10 ST, do not finish this round {10}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing; do not stuff

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Assembly

Belly: Pin the belly to the body making sure it is centred and the same distance from the eyes on each side. Then sew it to the body.

Back fin: First pin the fin to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the body from the front, back and top. Then sew it to the body. Do not stuff the fin. I placed the fin between R25 & R39.

Side fins: First pin the fins to the side of the body making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew them to the body and do not stuff them. I placed the fins between R27 & R38.

Gills and nostrils embroidery: Embroider the gills and nostrils using a thin black yarn as shown in the photos below. I embroidered the nostrils in R6 and the gills between R22 and R26.

Free Crochet Shark Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy. I hope you found my free crochet shark pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the shark!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

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Free Crochet Hippo Pattern