If you are looking for a simple pattern to help you make a really cute owl, then look no more. This free crochet owl pattern is the one for you! Meet Olive the Owl who will make a beautiful gift with her big wise eyes and delicate wings. I am sure she will be a loyal friend to anyone who loves handmade gifts and soft cuddles.
Free Crochet Owl Pattern – Notes
Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – height including ears: 19cm / 7.5 inches
Finished size – width including wings: 18cm / 7 inches
Free Crochet Owl Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 1x ball of dark purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 72 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of light purple yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 19 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE
or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: a long piece of black yarn for eye lash embroidery / polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 15mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Owl Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
HDC: half double crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain stitch
SL: slip stitch
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
BLO: back loops only
FO: fasten off (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Owl Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet owl pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Wings
We will start by crocheting a circle using double crochet stitches; each circle will be connected with a slip stitch so we will not crochet in a spiral.
R1: MR – chain 2 ST, 11 x DC into MR, SL into 1st DC ST of R1 (Pic W1) – usually you would slip stitch into the top ST of the chain but I think the joint looks neater this way {12 incl. the chain}
R2: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R1 (Pic W2), 2x DC in each of the remaining STs, SL into 1st DC ST of R2 (Pic W3) {24 incl. the chain}
Change colour to light purple after R2
R3: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R2, 1x DC in next ST, (2x DC in next ST, 1x DC in next ST) x 11, SL into 1st DC ST of R3 {36 incl. the chain}
Change colour to dark purple after R3
R4: chain 2 ST, 1x DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R3, 1x DC in next 2 ST, (2x DC in next ST, 1x DC in next 2 ST) x 11, SL into 1st DC ST of R4 {48 incl. the chain} – do not FO and leave your hook in
R5: Fold the circle in half and SC the sides together to close the opening (Pic W4) – do not stuff the wings, FO and leave a long tail for sewing
Sew the wings to the body, I attached the top of the wings to R36.
How to Crochet the Eyes
We will start by crocheting a circle using double crochet stitches, each circle will be connected with a slip stitch so we will not crochet in a spiral.
R1: MR – chain 2 ST, 11 x DC into the ring, SL into 1st DC ST of R1 {12 incl. the chain} – do not make your MR too tight, you need to leave a hole in the middle to put the safety eye through
R2: chain 2 ST, DC into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R1, 2x DC in each of the remaining STs, SL into 1st DC ST of R2 {24 incl. the chain}
Change colour to light purple after R2
R3: In this round we will crochet the decorative hem around the eye (Pic E2) – chain 1 ST, SL into the same ST you slip stitched through at the end of R2, (chain 1 ST and SL into next ST) x repeat all around, FO and leave a long tail for sewing
Embroider the eye lashes before you insert the safety eyes (Pic E4) and attach the eyes to the head.
How to Crochet the Head and Body
Starting from the bottom of the body upwards
R1: Chain 15 ST {15} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4
R2: SC in 14 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 12 ST, INC in last ST {30}
R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 12 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 12 ST, INC in last 2 ST {36}
R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {42}
R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {48}
R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {54}
R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {60}
R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {66}
R9: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {72}
R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {78}
R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2 {84}
R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 2 {90}
R13-R19 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {90}
R20: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {84} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {84}
R24: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {78}
R25-R27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R28: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 12 ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {72}
R29-R42 (14 rounds): SC in each ST around {72} – leave your marker in at the start of R36 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes later on.
Change yarn to light purple colour after R36 and start stuffing the body.
R43: SC in next 71 ST, INC in last ST {73}
R44: INC in first ST, SC in next 5 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 20 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 20 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 7 ST {72}
R45: SC in next 7 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 18 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 18 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 2 ST {70}
R46: INC in next 2 ST, SC in next 5 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 5 ST, INC in next 4 ST, SC in next 5 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST {72}
R47: SC in next 9 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 18 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST, 1x INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST {68}
R48-R49 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {68}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the body and head well
– first use pins with large heads to mark the spots where the eyes will be placed (Pic H1), then pin the crocheted eyes to the head and decide whether you are happy with the placement and if they look symmetrical
– place eyes between rounds R36 and R37
– first eye – count 11 stitches from your marker at the start of R36 and place the eye between ST11 and ST12
– second eye – count 23 stitches from your marker at the start of R36 and place the eye between ST23 and ST24
– put the safety backs on and continue crocheting R50
R50: SC in next ST, add more stuffing if needed and then SC the opening together to close the head (Pic H2), FO and weave the yarn end in
How to Crochet the Beak
Starting from the tip of the beak upwards
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: SC in each ST around {12}
R6: SC the opening together to close the beak (do not stuff), FO and leave a long tail for sewing
Sew the beak to the head, I attached mine to R32.
How to Make the Ears
Step 1: Cut 8 strands of yarn for each ear. The 8 strands will consist of 2x black, 2x cream, 2x dark purple and 2x light purple yarn. Each strand needs to be 15cm / 6 inches long to start with, you can cut it to your preferred length after.
Step 2: Insert your hook into the last stitch at the top of the ear, fold your yarn strands in half and pull them through the stitch (Pic S2). Pull the ends of the yarn through the loop you created and make sure each strand of yarn is nice and tight.
Step 3: You can now cut the yarn to your preferred length. I cut mine to 2.5cm / 1 inch length (Pic S3).
Free Crochet Owl Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:
You have now finished your toy. I hope you found my free crochet owl pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the owl!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
Hi Heather, thank you for your comment. I am pleased that the owl turned out right anyway. It is not possible to attach photos to the comments here but you can share your photo on IG or FB. 🙂
Thank you again.
Love, Petra x
Thank you for the free pattern
Hi Trudy, you are more than welcome! 🙂 I hope you like the pattern and enjoy making the owl!
Love, Petra 🙂
I loved working on the owl amigurumi <3
Thank you so much for sharing! I will definitely check out some of your other patterns (the hippo for sure).
Have you considered video tutorials for your creations? I think they're great and would probably attract new audiences.
Thank you again. Keep it up!
Hi Georgiana, thank you so much for your lovely comment! 🙂 I am very happy you loved working on the owl pattern and want to try some more of my patterns. 🙂 I publish a new pattern every 2-3 weeks so if you want to get updates please subscribe to my Newsletter. I will be making some shorter videos to help with my patterns but I am not planning to make full pattern videos at the moment. This may of course change in the future. 🙂
Kind regards,
Petra