Today I would like to introduce you to Bella the Bunny! This free crochet bunny pattern is the very first Amigurumi pattern I designed so it is somewhat special to me…well actually a lot…so I hope you like it! 🙂 I went for a simple design with a pretty pink and grey colour combination, which I think looks really cute. This adorable Amigurumi bunny will make a perfect gift for any child who likes soft cuddles. And what’s more…you can surprise your loved ones with a beautiful handmade gift for Easter.

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Notes

Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 25.5cm / 10 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook

Finished size from ears to toes: 35.5cm / 14 inches with a 3mm; C/2 hook

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of grey yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 46 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 36 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a short piece of black yarn for nose embroidery / pink ribbon (plain or with a pattern of your choice) – 10mm wide, 50cm long / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets six times

(…..) x 3: repeat the pattern inside the brackets three times

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet front and back of the ear as two separate parts; you will then join these two parts together to create a decorative hem; follow the below pattern for both parts of the ear.

R1: Chain 12 ST {12}

R2: SC in 9 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, 1x INC, 1x L INC, now work on the opposite side of the chain, 1x INC, 9 x SC, chain 1 ST and turn your work over {26 incl your extra ST at the end}

R3: SC in 11 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, 1x INC, 1x L INC, 1x INC, 11 x SC, chain 1 ST and turn your work over {30 incl your extra ST at the end}

R4: SC in 14 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, 1x L INC, 14 x SC, chain 1 ST and turn your work over {32 incl your extra ST at the end}

R5 (front of the ear only): SC in 15 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, 1x L INC, 15 x SC and FO leaving just a short piece of yarn {33}

R5 (back of the ear only): SC in 15 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, 1x L INC, 15 x SC, chain 1 ST and turn your work over {34 incl your extra ST at the end}

R6 (back of the ear only): SC in 33 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook, do not FO and do not cut off the yarn as you will need the yarn to crochet the two pieces of the ear together {33}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the front and back part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside of the ear.

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E6, E7, E8):

– leave your hook in the last CH of R6 from the above pattern

– slip your hook through the first CH of the front part

– and then slip your hook through the first CH of the back part

– so you now have two CHs on the hook, SC these 2 CHs together

– SC the corresponding CHs of each part together all the way round (including the straight edge at the bottom of the ear) {41}

R2: You now have the two parts joined together so you can now crochet the decorative hem (Pic E9, E10) – 1x CH and SL into first CH, 1x CH and SL into second CH, continue all around (excluding the straight edge at the bottom of the ear), FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {33}

How to Crochet the Head

Start from the nose to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

Change colour to grey yarn

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in each ST around {30}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R8: SC in each ST around {36}

R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R10: SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R12: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R13: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R14-15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R16: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R17-23 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R15 and R16

– first eye – count 21 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST21 and ST22

– second eye – count 41 stitches from your marker at the start of R15 and place the eye between ST41 and ST42

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R15, then place the eyes anywhere in R15 making sure you leave 20 stitches in between the eyes

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye (Pic H3) and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H4)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R27

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28: SC in each ST around {54}

R29: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R30: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R31: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R32: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R33: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R34: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R35: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R36: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Start from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: SC in each ST around {48}

R10: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: SC in each ST around {60}

R13: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R14: SC in each ST around {66}

R15: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R16-20 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R21: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R22-23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R24: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R25-26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R27: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R28-29: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R30: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R31-32: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R33: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R34-35: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: SC in each ST around {36}

R38: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R39: SC in each ST around {30}

R40: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R41: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {24}

How to Crochet the Arms

Start from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: SC in each ST around {24}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R7-10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to grey yarn after R7 {30}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {27}

R12: SC in each ST around {27}

R13: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R14: SC in each ST around {24}

R15: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R16: SC in each ST around {21}

R17: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R18-20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R22-23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R25-26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R28-29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R30: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R31-32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R33: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}

R34: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {13}

How to Crochet the Legs

Start from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in each ST around {30}

R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R8-11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around – change colour to grey yarn after R8 {36}

R12: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {33}

R13: SC in each ST around {33}

R14: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {30}

R15: SC in each ST around {30}

R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R17: SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R18: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R19-20 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R21: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R22: SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R23: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R24-25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R27-29 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing after R29 {14}

How to Crochet the Tail

Start from the centre of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5-6 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {18}

You can now stuff the tail

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: To attach the ears to the head you will need to fold the bottom part of the ear in half. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R21 and R28.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the body will be attached slightly towards the back of the head. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the arms to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the arms between R33 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below. Sew the legs to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the legs between R3 and R7 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit up your toy to make sure the tail is not placed too low. Sew the tail to the body adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R10 and R16 of the body.

Nose embroidery: Place pins into the stitches where you would like to embroider the nose to ensure the nose is symmetrical. You can then finish the nose with a long piece of black yarn.

Free Crochet Bunny Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your crochet toy and as a final touch you can tie a bow around its neck with a nice ribbon of your choice! I hope you found my free crochet bunny pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the bunny!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Pig Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Dragon Pattern