This cute Amigurumi bear might be feeling a little blue but his heart is warm and full of love! I simply had to make this bear because everyone needs a huge bear hug every now and then. So if you want to make someone happy, crochet them this precious handmade toy using my free crochet bear pattern. I am sure it will put a big smile on their face. 🙂

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 20cm / 8 inches

Finished size from ears to toes: 25.5cm / 10 inches

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 55 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used:

– a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow embroidery

– a long piece of black sport or light worsted yarn for nose embroidery

– polyester fibre fill

– ribbon of your choice for the bow

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet bear pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet bear pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet from the top towards the base.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5-R7 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R8: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}

R9: SC in each ST around {27}

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Do not stuff the ears

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the front of the head to the back.

R1: Chain 6 ST {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 5 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 3 ST, INC in last 2 ST {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 ST, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 ST {42}

R8-R11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {42} – change yarn to blue colour after ST29 in R11

R12: SC in each ST around {42}

R13: SC in next ST, INC in next 16 ST, SC in next 8 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 8 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 7 ST {60}

R14: SC in next 42 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 8 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 8 ST {62} – leave the stitch marker in at the start of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15-R17 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {62}

R18: INC in first ST, SC in next 10 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 10 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 10 ST, INC in next ST, SC in next 28 ST {66}

R19: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R20-R23 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R24: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R25: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R26: SC in each ST around {60}

R27: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R28: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R29: SC in each ST around {48}

R30: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R31: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – count 10 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST10 and ST11

– second eye – count 23 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST23 and ST24

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H9)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H10)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H11)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H13)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H15)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H16) and continue crocheting R32

R32: SC in each ST around {36}

R33: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R34: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R35: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R36: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R37: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

When assembling the toy, I decided to sculpt the eyes a bit more to pull them towards the back of the head. But you can do it now before you assemble the toy. You can also skip this stage if you are happy with the look of the eyes as they are.

The technique is similar to the one above but you will sculpt the eyes separately from the back of the head as per below:

– insert the needle through the back of the head and leave a tail showing (Pic H17)

– place the needle in a stitch next to the eye and then in the stitch next to it (Pic H18 & H19)

– come across the head with the needle and repeat the above step again until you achieve the desired look

– come out of the back of the head through the same stitch you inserted the needle through to start with (Pic H20)

– tie a knot with the two yarn tails and pull the knot inside of the body with a needle

– repeat the above steps for the second eye

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in each ST around {54}

R11: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R14-R19 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R20: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R23: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R24: SC in each ST around {60}

R25: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R26:  SC in each ST around {54}

You can now start stuffing the body

R27: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R28-R29: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {48}

R30: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R31-R32: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {42}

R33: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R34-R35: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {36}

R36: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R37-R38: (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30}

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R12: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R14: SC in each ST around {24}

R15: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

Change yarn to blue colour now

R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R19: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R29: SC in each ST around {15}

R30: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R13 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R14: SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {36}

R15: SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {30}

R16: SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 7 ST {24}

R17: SC in each ST around {24}

Change yarn to blue colour now and start stuffing the leg

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R20: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R21: SC in each ST around {21}

R22: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R25: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R28: SC in next 13 ST and then SC the opening together to close the leg

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

How to Crochet the Tail

Crochet from the end of the tail.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5-R7 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R8: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

You can now stuff the tail

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R21 and R27 with 8 STs in between them.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head, adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R28 and R36 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R10 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R10 and R16.

Eye brow embroidery: You can embroider the eye brows using a long piece of black thread yarn. I embroidered the eye brows between R18 and R19 with 8 STs in between them.

Nose embroidery: You can embroider the nose using a long piece of sport or light worsted yarn. First mark the corners of the nose with pins and then outline the shape of the nose with the yarn. You can then fill in the nose.

Free Crochet Bear Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy and as a final touch you can tie a bow around its neck with a nice ribbon of your choice. I hope you found my free crochet bear pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the bear!

I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Turtle Pattern
Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern
Free Crochet Horse Pattern