Free Crochet Seal Pattern

Let’s talk baby seals! Don’t you just love how cute and fluffy they are?! My heart just melts when I see that adorable innocent look in their big eyes. I wanted to recreate that look in my Amigurumi seal, which will hopefully melt your loved ones’ heart once they receive this special gift. This free crochet seal pattern is quite simple and there is minimum sewing involved which is always a bonus! 🙂

Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Before You Get Started

Pattern Notes

Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size – length: 20cm / 8 inches when using a 2.5mm = B/1 crochet hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Finished size – height: 8.5cm / 3.5 inches when using a 2.5mm = B/1 crochet hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used:

– a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow and whisker embroidery

– a long piece of black sport or light worsted yarn for nose embroidery

– polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Seal Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free crochet seal pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Head and the Body

Crochet from the front of the head towards the back flippers.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in each ST around {30}

R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R8: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R9-R11 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R12: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R13: SC in next 18 ST, INC in next 12 ST, SC in next 18 ST {60}

R14: SC in each ST around {60} – leave the stitch marker in at the start of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R16: SC in each ST around {66}

R17: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R18-R28 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R29: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R30: SC in each ST around {66}

R31: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 8 ST {61}

R32-R33 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – count 20 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST20 and ST21

– second eye – count 40 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST40 and ST41

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic H8)

– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R34

R34: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 7 ST {56}

R35-R36 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}

R37: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 6 ST {51}

R38: SC in each ST around {51}

R39: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 5 ST {46}

R40: SC in each ST around {46}

R41: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 ST {41}

R42: SC in each ST around {41}

R43: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 ST {36}

R44: SC in each ST around {36}

R45: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 2 ST {31}

R46: SC in each ST around {31}

R47: SC in next 12 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next ST {26}

R48-R50 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R51: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {24}

R52: SC in each ST around {24}

R53: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {22}

R54: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R55: SC in each ST around {20}

Do not fasten off and continue to crochet the back flippers as described in the next section.

Back Flippers

Continue to crochet from R55 from the previous section, crochet as two separate flippers.

– Split R55 from previous section into two parts

– Each part will have 10 stitches and will form one flipper

– Do not cut off the yarn at the end of R55 and continue to crochet in spiral

– Do not stuff the flippers

First flipper:

R56: SC in next 10 ST {10} – Pic T1 & T2

R57: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}

R58: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 4 {16}

R59: SC in each ST around {16}

R60: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 4 {20}

R61: SC in each ST around {20}

R62: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 4 {24}

R63-R69 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R70: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R71: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R72: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Second flipper:

– Go back to R55 and attach new yarn to the first stitch of the second part of R55 (Pic T3)

– Continue to crochet R56 to R72 as per the pattern for the first flipper

Front Flippers

Crochet from the end of the flipper towards the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R5-R9 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R13: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R14: SC in each ST around {17}

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R16: SC in each ST around {16}

R17: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {14}

R18: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {12}

R19: SC in each ST around {12}

R20: SC in next 2 ST and then SC the sides together to close the opening – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

Do not stuff the flippers; FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Seal Softie

Front flippers: First pin the flippers to each side of the body making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew them to the body, I placed each flipper between R17 & R24.

Nose embroidery: You can embroider the nose using a long piece of sport or light worsted yarn. First mark the corners of the nose with pins and then outline the shape of the nose with the yarn. You can then fill in the nose.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy

Eye brow and whisker embroidery: You can embroider the eye brows and whiskers using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photos below. I embroidered the eye browse between R17 and R19 with 17 STs between them. You can choose to embroider as many whiskers as you wish; I went for 3 whiskers on each side.

Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi. In this video I embroider nostrils but you can use the same technique for embroidering the eye brows.

You have now finished your crochet animal. And if you enjoyed the easy assembly then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns