Meet Blossom the Bear, another of my crochet loveys. This time I went for an 8 pointed star crochet lovey blanket and I am super pleased with the result! And I hope you are too! 🙂 This free crochet bear lovey pattern is a really nice project to work on and I am sure any baby will love this soft and cuddly Amigurumi bear lovey!
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – blanket’s diameter: 37cm (14.5 inches)
Finished size – bear height: 9cm (3.5 inches)
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used for this free crochet bear lovey pattern:
– Light worsted #3 = DK/8 ply
– 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
– 1x ball of purple yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 143 – (100g/212m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – Coboo Lion Brand – colour 100 – (100g/212m)
I love using the cotton and bamboo blend for this pattern as it makes the bear lovey blanket super soft and cuddly. You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn here in US and here in UK.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye embroidery
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet bear lovey pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain
– STR CH: starting chain
– FSP: first space
– NSP: next space
– SSP: same space
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet bear lovey pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}
R6-R8 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
Do not stuff, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Flower Head Piece
Start with a chain, crochet 4 petals and roll them up into a flower.
R1: Chain 25
R2: starting from the 2nd chain from the hook, (SC in next ST, DC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, 2xTC in next ST, DC in next ST, SC in next ST) x 4 {24}
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
How to roll up the flower:
– thread a needle with the yarn tail
– pull the needle through all the stitches in the starting chain (Pic F1), roll up the petals as you go along while pulling on the yarn tail (Pic F2)
– once the petals are all rolled up, secure the bottom of the flower with a few stitches, leave a long tail for sewing
How to Crochet the Snout
Crochet a circle.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in each ST around {30}
R7: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R8: SC in each ST around {36}
Do not stuff, you will stuff the snout at the assembly stage.
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Head
Crochet a ball.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R11-R20 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R21: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54} – watch this step by step video tutorial on
How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R22: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R23: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R24: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
Start stuffing the head and keep stuffing as you go along.
R25: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R26: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R27: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R28: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R29: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
How to Crochet the Arms
Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 3 {27}
R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
Change yarn to purple colour.
R8: SC in each ST around {27}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}
R10: SC in each ST around {24}
R11: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm.
R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R14: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}
R15: SC in each ST around {15}
R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}
Stop stuffing the arm.
R17: SC in each ST around {14}
R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}
R19: SC in each ST around {13}
R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 ST {12}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R24: SC the opening together to close the arm
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.
How to Crochet the Blanket
Crochet the blanket as an 8 pointed star starting from the middle.
I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.
R1:
– magic ring – chain 4 – this is your starting chain
– (1x double crochet into the ring, chain 1) x 7
– slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B3)
– at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B4)
– {16 including the slip stitch}
R2:
– slip stitch into the first space – between the starting chain and first double crochet in R1 (Pic B5)
– chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
– 1x double crochet into the same space
– (chain 2, 2x double crochet into the next space) x 7
– chain 2, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 sets of 2x double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B10)
– {32 including the slip stitch}
R3:
– slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B11)
– slip stitch into the first space (Pic B12)
– chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
– 1x double crochet into the same space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space (Pic B14)
– (2x double crochet into the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space) x 7
– slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– you will notice that we started to create the 8 points of the star in this round (Pic B17)
– {48 including the slip stitch}
R4:
– slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B18)
– chain 3 – this will be your starting chain in this round
– 2x double crochet into the first space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – watch out for this stitch because it is often hidden under the double crochet stitches you made into the space and can be easily missed (Pic B20 & B21)
– (skip 2 stitches, 1x double crochet in the next stitch, 2x double crochet in the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet in the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – again watch out for this stitch) x 7
– skip 2 stitches and slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
– in this round, the 8 points of the star are becoming more prominent (Pic B24)
– {64 including the slip stitch}
Notice that there are 3 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point. Going forward, in each round, the number of double crochet stitches will increase by 1 on each side of the star point, e.g. in R5 you will have 4 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point.
I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the top.
R5: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next ST, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {80 incl SL ST}
R6: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {96 incl SL ST}
R7: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {112 incl SL ST}
R8: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {128 incl SL ST}
R9: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {144 incl SL ST}
R10: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {160 incl SL ST}
R11: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {176 incl SL ST}
R12: Change yarn to white colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {192 incl SL ST}
R13: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {208 incl SL ST}
R14: Change yarn to purple colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {224 incl SL ST}
R15: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 12 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {240 incl SL ST}
R16: Change yarn to white colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 12 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 13 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 13 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {256 incl SL ST}
R17: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 13 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 14 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 14 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 14 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {272 incl SL ST}
R18: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 14 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 15 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 15 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 15 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {288 incl SL ST}
R19: Change yarn to purple colour and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 15 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 16 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 16 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 16 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {304 incl SL ST} – this is the last round of your blanket
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Assembly:
Ears: Pin the ears to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R3 and R13 of the head, however you can attach them as per your preference.
Snout: Pin the snout to the head. Sew the snout to the head and stuff well before you finish sewing it. I placed the snout between R13 and R26 of the head, however you can attach it as per your preference.
Eye and nose embroidery: Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R12 and R14 leaving 7 stitches in between the eyes.
To embroider the nose, use the same purple yarn you used for the blanket. I embroidered the nose between R6 and R7 of the snout.
Flower head piece: Sew the flower you made earlier to the head on the side of the ear. Make sure you sew it well using a few stitches so it can’t be pulled off.
Attaching the head to the blanket:
Before attaching the head to the blanket, choose which way you would like the bear to face. I like to attach the head so that the bear is facing one of the points of the star. Preferably you want the bit, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the bear.
It is important that the head is attached to the blanket firmly and securely as the baby the lovey is intended for is likely to pull on the head or the blanket often. I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 3 circles (Pic A1). This way the lovey can’t be pulled apart and the head will be nice and steady instead of being wobbly.
But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions below. You can attach the head the way you prefer. You can sew it together around 2 circles or even in a cross and one circle.
First circle: Thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail you were left with after finishing the head. Pull the needle through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring (Pic A2). Then go back into the head through the centre of the closing circle.
Second circle: Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew R28 of the head to the bottom part of the double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket (Pic A3).
Third circle: Still using the same yarn tail you used for the first two circles, sew R26 of the head to the top part of the double crochet stitches in R2 of the blanket. Once you have completed the full circle, weave the yarn tail in.
Arms: Pin the arms to the blanket right by the side of the head and sew them securely (Pic A5). Weave the yarn tails in.
Free Crochet Bear Lovey Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Lovey Blanket:
You have now finished your crochet lovey blanket! I hope you found my free crochet bear lovey pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the bear!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Snowman Pattern
Free Crochet Sloth Pattern
Free Crochet Dolphin Pattern
Thank-you, Thnak-you, Thank-you for taing the time, clear directions, and pictures to help with the first several rows of the blanket. Finally I succeeded in making a cute 8 point lovey.
Hi Esther, thank you for your comment! 🙂 I am really pleased you found the instructions helpful. It sure did take a long time to take all the photos but it is all worth it when I receive such a lovely feedback! 🙂 I am really happy you managed to complete the 8 point blanket at the end!
Love, Petra 🙂