This super sweet Amigurumi sheep is just the perfect toy to play and snuggle with. Her name is Lolla and she will make a wonderful handmade gift for anyone young at heart. This free crochet sheep pattern is easy to follow and fun to work on. I used a chunky fluffy yarn to make this crochet sheep extra huggable for those precious moments.

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches with 3mm = C/2 & 5mm = H/8 hooks

Finished size from ears to toes: 30.5cm / 12 inches with 3mm = C/2 & 5mm = H/8 hooks

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

For the body and cap:

– Bulky #5 = Chunky

– 100% polyester fluffy yarn

– 1x ball of Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake Chunky – colour 0631 – (25g/62m) – this can be substituted by any chunky fluffy yarn

For the remaining parts:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

–  55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 18 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: a long piece of black yarn for nose and eye lash embroidery and for hoof sculpting / pink ribbon (plain or with a pattern of your choice) – 10mm wide, 50cm long / polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2 & 5mm = H/8, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes, small metal jingle bell

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead. The use of a jingle bell may also pose a choking risk.

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This free crochet sheep pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet sheep pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate parts; you will then crochet these two parts together.

For both the inside and outside of the ear:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6 (inside of the ear only): SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST and FO {36}

R6 (outside of the ear only): SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7 (outside of the ear only): SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {36}

To join the two parts of the ear together:

Place the inside and outside part on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each part is on the inside

R1: You will need to crochet the two parts together (Pic E1, E2, E3, E4):

– leave your hook in the last ST of R7 from the above pattern

– slip your hook through the first ST of the inside part

– and then slip your hook through the first ST of the outside part

– so you now have two STs on the hook, SC these 2 STs together

– SC the corresponding STs of each part together all the way round {36}

To shape the ears, fold the ear in half and then stitch or crochet one side together and leave the other side open (Pic E5)

How to Crochet the Cap

Hook size: 5 mm = H/8 – note you need to use a bigger size hook for the cap

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply and Bulky #5 = Chunky

Starting from the back of the cap to the front; you will need to double the fluffy yarn with the standard yarn and keep your stitches quite loose otherwise the cap will be too small. 

R1: Chain 5 ST and SL into first CH to create a ring – when using the fluffy yarn it is easier to make a ring this way than to use a MR

R2: 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R3: INC in each ST around {12}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R6: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {30} – depending on how lose or tight your stitches are you may want to remove or add extra round here so your cap fits the head nicely – you can also add some stuffing inside the cap if it is a bit lose before sewing it to the head

How to Crochet the Head

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the nose to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R13: SC in next 15 ST, INC in next 12 ST, SC in next 15 ST {54}

R14: SC in each ST around {54} – leave your stitch mark in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R15: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R16: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 10 ST {65}

R17-R24 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {65}

R25: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 10 ST {60} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R26: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R14 and R15

– first eye – count 18 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST18 and ST19

– second eye – count 36 stitches from your marker at the start of R14 and place the eye between ST36 and ST37

– if you didn’t leave your marker in R14, then place the first eye above the 2nd INC from R13 and the second eye above the 11th INC from R13, you should have 18 ST in between the eyes

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H7) and continue crocheting R27

R27: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R28: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R29: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R30: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R31: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R32: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R33: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R34: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Hook size: 5 mm = H/8 – note you need to use a bigger size hook for the body

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply and Bulky #5 = Chunky

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top; you will need to double the fluffy yarn with the standard yarn and keep your stitches quite loose otherwise the body will be too small. 

R1: Chain 5 ST and SL into first CH to create a ring – when using the fluffy yarn it is easier to make a ring this way than to use a MR

R2: 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R3: INC in each ST around {12}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R6: SC in each ST around {24}

R7: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R8: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

Start stuffing the body now

R11: (SC in next 4 ST, DEC) x 6 {30}

R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, DEC) x 6 {24}

R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R17: (SC in next 2 ST, DEC) x 6 {18}

R18: (SC in next 1 ST, DEC) x 6 {12}

R19: SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {12}

How to Crochet the Arms

Hook size: 3mm = C/2 (even when using the fluffy yarn as we don’t want the stitches to be too large on this occasion and the cuff to look too bulky)

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply and Bulky #5 = Chunky

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards; please note we will not double the fluffy yarn with the standard yarn like we did for the cap and the body as it would make the cuff look too bulky.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7-R11 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R14: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

Change yarn to the fluffy yarn now

R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18} – (if you find it difficult to see the stitches when crocheting the cuff with the fluffy yarn, you don’t have to crochet into the exact stitches, just make sure that you distribute 18 stitches evenly around and the cuff will look just as good)

Change yarn to the cream DK yarn and start stuffing the arm

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R22: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R25: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R28: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R31: INV DEC, SC in next 12 ST {13}

R32-R33 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {13}

How to Crochet the Legs

Hook size: 3mm = C/2 (even when using the fluffy yarn as we don’t want the stitches to be too large on this occasion and the cuff to look too bulky)

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply and Bulky #5 = Chunky

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards; please note we will not double the fluffy yarn with the standard yarn like we did for the cap and the body as it would make the cuff look too bulky.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 3 {39}

R8-R13 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {39}

R14: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {36}

R15: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to the fluffy yarn now

R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24} – (if you find it difficult to see the stitches when crocheting the cuff with the fluffy yarn, you don’t have to crochet into the exact stitches, just make sure that you distribute 24 stitches evenly around and the cuff will look just as good)

Change yarn to the cream DK yarn and start stuffing the leg

R19-R20 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R21: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R24: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R25-R27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R28: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R29-R32 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {15}

How to Shape the Hooves

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to shape animal hooves for Amigurumi

Step 1: take a long piece of thin black yarn and thread your needle

Step 2: place the needle in the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof (Pic T1)

Step 3: pull the needle through the hoof and come out in between the rows where you changed the colour of the yarn (Pic T2)

Step 4: pull all the way through leaving a yarn tail at the bottom of the hoof

Step 5: repeat Step 2 and Step 3 again (Pic T3)

Step 6: pull all the way through

Step 7: you will be left with two yarn tails – one coming out of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof and the other tail coming out from the top of the hoof (Pic T4); tie a knot close to the centre of the magic ring at the bottom of the hoof (Pic T5)

Step 8: weave both yarn tails in tightly through the centre of the magic ring, while pulling the knot inside the hoof with them (Pic T6)

How to Crochet the Tail

Hook size: 3mm = C/2

Yarn type: Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

Starting from the bottom of the tail.

R1: Chain 4 ST {4} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R4

R2: SC in 3 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 1 ST, INC in last ST {8}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 1 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 1 ST, INC in last 2 ST {14}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R5: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {26}

R6-R7 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}

R8: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R9-R11 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}

R12: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 1 ST, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 2 {14}

R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing {14}

Stuff up to R12 as the end of the tail needs to be flat for sewing to the body

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Assembly

Head and cap: First pin the cap to the head and add extra stuffing into the inside of the cap if it is too loose. Sew the cap to the head all the way round. I left 3 rows in between the eyes and the cap.

Head and ears: First pin the ears to the head and then sew them on. I placed the ears at the eye level and the front edge of the ear at about 3cm/1.2inches away from the eyes.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. From profile, the body will be attached slightly towards the back of the head. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°). Sew the arms to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the top of the arms at about 2cm/0.8 inch down from the neck.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below. Sew the legs to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body making sure it is placed in the centre of the lower back. It also helps to sit up your toy to make sure the tail is not placed too low. Sew the tail to the body and don’t add anymore stuffing. I placed the tail at about 10cm/4 inches down from the neck.

Nose embroidery: To create the nose you will need a piece of black yarn and a yarn needle. Place pins into the stitches where you would like to embroider the nose to ensure the nose is symmetrical and then sew the nose on.

Eye lash embroidery and rose cheeks: You can chose to embroider eye lashes with a thin black yarn. To paint the rose cheeks you can either use a make-up blusher, water paint or a crayon. I used a make-up blusher and just gently tapped the cheeks with the makeup brush.

Free Crochet Sheep Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy and as a final touch you can tie a bow around its neck with a nice ribbon of your choice and hang a jingle bell on it! I hope you found my free crochet sheep pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the sheep!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Pig Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Guinea Pig Pattern