Free Crochet Horse Pattern

Horses have been called the noblest of creatures, and it’s easy to see why. If you are a horse lover then you must try this free crochet horse pattern. It is a very easy pattern to follow and you can have lots of fun creating a crazy hair-do for this cute Amigurumi horse. 🙂

Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Before You Get Started

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches when using 3mm = C/2 crochet hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Finished size from ears to toes: 30.5cm / 12 inches when using 3mm = C/2 crochet hook and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply yarn

Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 2x ball of light brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of dark brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 70 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 29 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 62 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Abbreviations Used

This free crochet horse pattern is written using US crochet terminology

– MR: magic ring

– ST: stitch

– SC: single crochet stitch

– HDC: half double crochet stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– TC: triple crochet stitch

– CH: chain stitch

– SL: slip stitch

– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

– DEC: standard decrease

– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

– BLO: back loops only

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Horse Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free crochet horse pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R8-R10 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}

R13: SC in each ST around {15}

R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12} and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing, do not stuff the ears

Head

Starting from the nose to the back of the head.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9-R15 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R16: (SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {45}

Change yarn to light brown colour

R17: SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {51}

R18: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {57}

R19: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {63}

R20: INC, SC in next 28 ST, INC, SC in next 8 ST, INC, SC in next 24 ST {66}

R21-R28 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {66} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R20 & R27 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes and making the mane

R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R30: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R31: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R32: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R20 and R21

– first eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST25 and ST26

– second eye – count 44 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST44 and ST45

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R33

R33: SC in each ST around {42}

R34: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R35: SC in each ST around {36}

R36: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R37: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R38: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R39: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R40: SC in each ST around {12}

FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Bridle

We will start with a chain and then will SC into it.

R1: Chain 51 STs and join the chain with a SL ST to make a circle {51}

R2: Chain 1 ST and SC in each ST around (insert your hook through the back bump of each ST too); join with a SL ST; FO and weave yarn end in {51} (Pic B1)

R3: Attach the yarn to ST15 of the circle (Pic B2), chain 44 STs and SL ST into ST37 and again into ST38 of the circle (Pic B3)

R4: SC in each ST of the second chain (insert your hook through the back bump of each ST too); join with a SL ST into ST14 of the first circle; FO and weave yarn ends in {44} (Pic B4)

You may need to adjust the number of chain STs in R1 and R3 to ensure the bridle is a good fit depending on how well you stuffed the head.

Sew the bridle to the head as shown in the photos. I attached the front part to R16 & R17 of the head.

Body

Starting from the bottom of the body to the top.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in each ST around {54}

R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}

R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R13: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}

R14: SC in each ST around {72}

R15: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R16-R21 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R22: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R25: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}

R26: SC in each ST around {66}

You can now start stuffing the body

R27: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R28: SC in each ST around {60}

R29: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R32: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R33-R34 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}

R35: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}

R36-R37 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R38: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R39-R40 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R41: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R42: SC in each ST around {30} and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Arms

Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}

R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R7 into back loop of each ST {36}

R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change yarn to green colour now

R14: SC in each ST around {24}

Change yarn to light brown colour now

R15: SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R16: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R17-R19 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R30: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}

R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R33: SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Legs

Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards.

R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R6 as you will need to refer to it when crocheting the horse shoe

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R8 into back loop of each ST {42}

Crochet the white horse shoe after R9 – follow the pattern in the next section and then come back to R10

R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}

Change yarn to green colour now

R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30} – change yarn to light brown colour after R14

You can now start stuffing the leg

R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R17: SC in each ST around {24}

R18: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}

R19-R20 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R21: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R24: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R28: SC in each ST around {16}

R29: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing

Horse Shoes

We will surface crochet the shoes using slip stitches.

Step 1: Count 2 STs from the start of R6 of the leg and insert the hook into the leg between ST2 and ST3; draw a loop through

Step 2: Insert your hook into the next ST, yarn over, pull the yarn through and SL ST

Step 3: Continue to SL ST in circle until you have 29 STs in total

Step 4: Tie a knot with both yarn ends on the wrong side of the piece and continue to crochet R10 of the leg

Mane

We will attach 3 lines of mane starting from the front of the head towards the back of the head.

I recommend making the mane after you have assembled your toy.

Step 1: Cut the yarn into pieces – 15cm / 6 inches long each

Step 2: Insert your hook through a ST at the top of the head (between R27 & R28); use 2 pieces of yarn, fold them in half and draw a loop through the ST (Pic M2)

Step 3: Pull the yarn ends through the loop and tighten (Pic M3)

Step 4: Continue to attach another 2 pieces of yarn in the next ST – attach a line of 18 loops going from the front of the head towards the back while alternating colours between light and dark brown – skip the bridle if it is in the way

Step 5: Attach 2^nd and 3^rd line of mane next to the 1^st one (18 loops each) using the same technique

Step 6: Cut the mane into desired length

You can adjust the number of lines or the number of loops in each line depending on how thick you would like the mane to be.

Tail

We will use the same technique that we used to make the mane.

I recommend making the tail after you have assembled your toy.

Step 1: Cut the yarn into pieces – 15cm / 6 inches long each

Step 2: Use the same technique that we used to make the mane but use 3 pieces of yarn for each loop – attach 2 loops between R17 & R18, 3 loops between R16 & R17 and another 2 loops between R15 & R16 while alternating colours between light and dark brown

Step 3: Cut the tail into desired length

How to Assemble your Crochet Horse Softie

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R28 and R30.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R32 and R39 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R2 and R9 of the body.

Nostril embroidery: To embroider the nostrils you need to use a long piece of the light brown yarn – I embroidered the nostrils between R8 & R9 leaving 5 STs between them. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi.

You have now finished your crochet animal. I hope you found my free horse crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it.