Free Crochet Bee Pattern

Free Crochet Bee Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic

– 1x ball of yellow yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 35 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of cream yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 03 – (50g/160m)

For the hairy neck:

– Light Worsted #3 = DK

– 100% polyester

– 1x ball of black yarn – Stylecraft Eskimo eyelash yarn – colour 5172 – (50g/90m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye lash embroidery

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Bee Pattern – Abbreviations Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology

MR: magic ring

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain stitch

SL: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.

BLO: back loops only

FO: fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Free Crochet Bee Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet bee pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

Join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my patterns.

Take advantage of this AMAZING OFFER…open an Etsy shop and list your first 40 items for FREE!

How to Crochet the Head and Body

Crochet from the front of the head to the back of the body.

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R8 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10-R17 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}

R18: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R19: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– place eyes between rounds R8 and R9

– first eye – count 17 stitches from your marker at the start of R8 and place the eye between ST17 and ST18

– second eye – count 30 stitches from your marker at the start of R8 and place the eye between ST30 and ST31

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– you can now insert the safety eyes and put the safety backs on (Pic H2)

R21-R24 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around in BLO {36}

R25: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 11, SC in next ST {48}

R26: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 12 {60}

R27-R28 (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around {60}

You can now crochet the hairy neck line using your eyelash yarn:

– watch this step by step video tutorial on Easy way how to crochet Amigurumi with eyelash yarn

– attach the yarn to the first ST in R21 of the head and SC into each front loop of R21-R24 (Pic H3)

– FO and weave yarn ends in

R29: SC in each ST around – change yarn to black colour after ST3 in R29 {60}

R30: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R31: SC in each ST around {66}

R32-R34 (3 rounds):  SC in each ST around – change yarn to yellow colour after ST3 in R32 {66}

R35: SC in each ST around – change yarn to black colour after ST3 in R35 {66}

R36: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 20 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 10 ST {63}

R37: SC in each ST around {63}

R38: SC in each ST around – change yarn to yellow colour after ST3 in R38 {63}

R39: (SC in next 19 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {60}

R40: SC in each ST around {60}

R41: SC in each ST around – change yarn to black colour after ST4 in R41 {60}

R42: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R43: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R44-R45 (2 rounds):  SC in each ST around – change yarn to yellow colour after ST4 in R44 {48}

R46: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R47: SC in each ST around – change yarn to black colour after ST4 in R47 {42}

R48: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R49: SC in each ST around {36}

R50: SC in each ST around – change yarn to yellow colour after ST4 in R50 {36}

R51: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R52: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}

R53: SC in each ST around – change yarn to black colour after ST3 in R53 {27}

R54: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R55: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R56: SC in each ST around – change yarn to yellow colour after ST3 in R56 {18}

R57: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R58: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Wings

Crochet from the end of the wing towards the root.

R1: Chain 5 ST {5} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help you out with R1 to R3

R2: SC in 4 ST starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last ST {10}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in next 3 ST, SC in next 2 ST, INC in last 2 ST {16}

R4: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {18}

R5: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 2 {20}

R6: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 2 {22}

R7: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R8-R12 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R13: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {22}

R14: SC in each ST around {22}

R15: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}

R16: SC in each ST around {20}

R17: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {18}

R18: SC in each ST around {18}

R19: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {16}

R20: SC in each ST around {16}

R21: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {14}

R22: SC in each ST around {14}

R23: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {12}

R24: SC in each ST around {12}

R25: SC in next 4 ST and then SC the opening together to close the wing – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

Do not stuff.

FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing.

How to Crochet the Antennae

R1: MR – 8 x SC into the ring {8}

R2: SL ST into 1^st ST of R1, chain 8 STs, SC in 7 ST starting from 2^nd CH from the hook (go through back bump of each CH as well), SL ST into the ST at the base of the chain

FO and weave the yarn ends in; leaving one yarn end for sewing.

How to Assemble Your Crochet Bee Softie

Body and wings: Pin the wings to the body first making sure that they look symmetrical from the top and then sew them to the body. I attached them between R24 and R25 with 3 STs in between them.

Head and antennae: Pin the antennae to the head first making sure they look symmetrical from the front and then sew them to the head. I placed the antennae between R13 and R14 with 5 STs in between them.

Eye lash embroidery: You can embroider the eye lashes using a long piece of black thread yarn.

You have now finished your crochet animal! And if you enjoyed the easy assembly then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns