This free whale and narwhal crochet pattern was inspired by my love of the sea and whales in particular. Whales are wonderful and gentle creatures so who wouldn’t love to crochet one as a gift for their little ones?! This pattern includes instructions for both Wayne the Whale and Nelly the Narwhal and is ideal for beginners as it’s easy to follow and most of the toy is crocheted in one piece.
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Notes
Skill level: basic/intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – length: 20cm / 8 inches
Finished size – height – Narwhal: 14cm / 5.5 inches
Finished size – height – Whale: 12cm / 4.5 inches
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply | 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– Narwhal: 1x ball of pink yarn – YarnArt Jeans Crazy – colour 8206 – (50g/160m)
– Whale: 1x ball of blue yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 76 – (50g/160m), 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Other materials used: a long piece of thin black yarn for eyelash embroidery / ribbon (plain or with a pattern of your choice) – 10mm wide, 20cm long / polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes, buttons
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
MR: magic ring – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
HDC: half double crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain stitch
SL: slip stitch
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease. Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
BLO: back loops only
FO: fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet whale and narwhal pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.
To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.
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How to Crochet the Head and the Body (both Whale and Narwhal)
Starting from the front of the head to the tail.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}
R13-R23 (11 rounds): SC in each ST around {72} – leave your marker in at the start of R20 in order to place the eyes later on
R24: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R25: SC in each ST around {66}
R26: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 10 ST {61}
R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {61}
R29: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 9 ST {56}
R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}
R32: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 8 ST {51}
R33: SC in each ST around {51}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– place eyes between rounds R20 and R21
– first eye – count 15 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST15 and ST16
– second eye – count 53 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST53 and ST54
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a hole next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a hole next to the right eye hole ; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in a second hole next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side (Pic H6)
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R34
R34: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 7 ST {46}
R35: SC in each ST around {46}
R36: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 6 ST {41}
R37: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 5 ST {36}
R38: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 4 ST {31}
R39: SC in each ST around {31}
R40: SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 3 ST {26}
R41-R42 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {26}
R43: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {24}
R44: SC in each ST around {24}
R45: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {22}
R46: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 2 {20}
R47: SC in each ST around {20}
Do not fasten off and continue to crochet the tail as per the pattern below
How to Crochet the Tail (both Whale and Narwhal)
Continue to crochet from R47 of the body, crochet as two separate tail fins.
– Split R47 of the body into two parts
– Each part will have 10 stitches and will form one tail fin
– Do not cut off the yarn and continue to crochet in spiral
– Do not stuff the tail fins
First tail fin:
R48: SC in next 10 ST {10} – Pic T1 & T2
R49: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}
R50: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 4 {16}
R51: SC in each ST around {16}
R52: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 4 {20}
R53: SC in each ST around {20}
R54: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 4 {24}
R55-R56 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R57: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {20}
R58: SC in each ST around {20}
R59: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {16}
R60: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {12}
R61: SC in each ST around {12}
R62: (SC in next 1 ST, INV DEC) x 4 {8}, close the hole with a needle and FO
Second tail fin:
– Go back to R47 and attach new yarn to the first stitch of the second part of R47
– Continue to crochet R48 (Pic T3) to R62 as per the pattern for the first tail fin
How to Crochet the Fins (both Whale and Narwhal)
Starting from the point of the fin to the side of the body.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}
R7-R12 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}
R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}
R17: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {9}
R18: SC the sides together to close the opening and do not stuff
How to Crochet the Narwhal Horn
Starting from the tip of the horn downwards.
R1: MR – 5 x SC into the ring {5}
R2: SC in next 2 ST, INC, SC in next 2 ST {6}
R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2 {8}
R4: SC in each ST around {8}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 2 {10}
R6: SC in each ST around {10}
R7: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2 {12}
R8: SC in each ST around {12}
R9: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 2 {14}
R10: SC in each ST around {14}
R11: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 2 {16}
R12: SC in each ST around {16}
R13: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {18}
R14: SC in each ST around {18}, FO and leave a long tail for sewing
Stuff well
How to Crochet the Whale Bowler Hat
Starting from the top of the hat downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6-R12 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}
R13: (SC in next ST, INC) x 15 {45}
R14: SC in each ST around {45}
R15: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 15 {30}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing.
Roll up R13 – R15 to create the trim of the hat and stitch it to the crown of the hat.
You can decorate the hat with a ribbon or some buttons before attaching it to the whale.
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Assembly
Fins: First pin the fins to the bottom of the body making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew them to the body, I placed the fins between R25 & R29.
Horn: First pin the horn to the head, making sure it is centred from the front. Sew the horn to the head, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the horn between R9 & R14.
Head piece and eye lash embroidery: You can decorate the head of the narwhal with a bow or a flower as shown in the photo below. You can also embroider the eye lashes using a thin black yarn.
Bowler hat: Decorate the bowler hat with the buttons or the ribbon of your choice and stuff it well. Pin the hat to the whale head and sew it tightly while adding more stuffing if needed.
Free Whale and Narwhal Crochet Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toys:
You have now finished your crochet toys. I hope you found my free whale and narwhal crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the whales!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!
More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:
Free Crochet Sheep Pattern
Free Crochet Elephant Pattern
Free Crochet Cow Pattern
Hi Liz, thank you for your comment and for spotting the mistake with the bowler hat. I have now updated the pattern on the website so you can finish the hat. 🙂
Thank you again and apologies for the error.
Love,
Petra
I really love your pattern..its easy fir me to follow…I am a volunteer crocheter for a charitable foundation for kids cancer patients…thank you I found you here…it really help us a lot for our projects…
Hi Bella, thank you so much for your comment! It is so kind of you to volunteer for the charitable foundation and make crochet toys for the ill children. I think it is an excellent idea and I think more of us should do this. I am very happy I can help by at least providing my free patterns and I am very pleased you picked them for your charity! 🙂