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If you’ve been looking for a fun crochet project to get stuck into, this triceratops crochet pattern free is a really good one to try. It started as my latest mystery crochet along pattern and it ended up being a huge hit. This cute triceratops Amigurumi may look complicated but it’s broken down into steps that are really easy to follow.
There is some sewing involved but I’ve tried to keep it to a minimum to make this crochet triceratops easy to assemble. I’ll also show you how to crochet a triceratops frill directly onto the head, which avoids having too many separate parts to deal with later on.
To help you along the way, I’ve also included video tutorials to help with the trickier parts of this crochet dinosaur pattern.
Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- Crochet the triceratops frill directly onto the head with the help of my step-by-step video tutorial
- All you need to know is basic crochet stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including medium worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
- And more importantly…you will have fun making a beautiful gift for your little one or family and friends
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
How to Crochet a Triceratops Dinosaur
– This crochet triceratops free pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
– Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
– All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
– I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps.
– Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
– This triceratops Amigurumi pattern requires some sewing during assembly, but the frill is crocheted directly onto the head – no sewing required. A step-by-step video tutorial is included to guide you through making the frill.
– The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
– Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks
Get Started with this Triceratops Crochet Pattern (Free Pattern)
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate to advanced crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- seated: 23cm (9″)
- standing: 31cm (12.25″)
Pattern Gauge
Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:
– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round
Pattern for gauge:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
Yarn Requirements
This triceratops crochet pattern (free pattern) will work great with the below yarns.
- 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
- Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)
Yarn I used for this crochet dinosaur free pattern:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
- dark purple yarn – 2 skeins of YarnArt Jeans – color 50 – (50g/160m)
- light purple yarn – 1 skein of YarnArt Jeans – color 19 – (50g/160m)
- cream yarn – 1 skein of YarnArt Jeans – color 86 – (50g/160m)
Yardage – when using 2.5mm or B/1 crochet hook and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- dark purple yarn – about 68.5g (219.5m = approx. 240yds)
- light purple yarn – about 12g (38.5m = approx. 42yds)
- cream yarn – about 5g = (16m = approx. 17.5yds)
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton:: WeCrochet Animation DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: WeCrochet Brava
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey
If you would like to check some more substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Materials and Equipment
Materials needed:
- a long strand of white yarn – about 30cm (12″)
- polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook size:
- 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
- if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but use a smaller hook – go at least one size smaller
I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hooks set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment needed:
Make It a Set!
This adorable crochet triceratops pairs perfectly with my T-Rex dinosaur. Make both for an extra roarsome set!
Pattern Abbreviations
This crochet triceratops pattern (free pattern) is written using US crochet terms.
MR: magic ring/magic circle
CH: chain
SL ST: slip stitch
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
MPS: modified puff stitch – refer to Special Stitches Section
SPS: small puff stitch – refer to Special Stitches Section
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
BLO: back loop only
FL ST: front loop stitch
TO: turn over
FO: fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round
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Special Stitches
SPS: Small Puff Stitch
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 3 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 5 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 7 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops, chain 1x to close the puff stitch
You can watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a triceratops frill to see how I crochet this SPS.
MPS: Modified Puff Stitch
- Insert the hook into the stitch one round below the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 2 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 4 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 6 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 8 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a longer loop (you will have 10 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through all 10 loops
- Make a single crochet in the next stitch to close the puff stitch
You can watch this video tutorial on How to crochet claws or toes on Amigurumi to see how I crochet this MPS.
Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Crochet Triceratops Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this free triceratops crochet pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
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How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns
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Printable Crochet Triceratops Pattern
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Triceratops Crochet Pattern (Free Pattern): Step by Step
You can find the free crochet pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Get a Closer Look at this Cute Dinosaur – Hit Play!
Arms (Front Legs)
Yarn color: dark purple, light purple and cream yarn
Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards; you will crochet the claws using modified puff stitches
Start with light purple yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
Change yarn to dark purple
R7: SC in each ST around {36}
Mystery Crochet Along
Join our free crochet along and unravel the mystery as you stitch along with other fellow crocheters.
R8: you will crochet the claws in this round using 3 modified puff stitches – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet claws and toes on Amigurumi. But if you are finding this step tricky, you can always SC all the way round in R8 and embroider the claws later.
Left arm:
- SC in next 21 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn back to dark purple
- SC in next 4 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 4 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 4 STs {36}
Right arm:
- SC in next 6 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn back to dark purple
- SC in next 4 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 4 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 19 STs {36}
Continue crocheting with dark purple yarn only
R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R11: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease
R12: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R15: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}
R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R18: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R19-R21 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R22: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 15 STs {16}
R26-R27 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 14 STs {15}
Tip before you close the arms (Pic 1): when you close the arm, you should have seven stitches in a row. Hold the arm in your hand so one end of the row points toward the front and the other toward the back. The end that points to the front should be roughly aligned with the middle claw. This way, when you attach the arms to the body, the claws will be positioned correctly on the front of the arm.
If your middle claw is not aligned as described above, you may need to adjust the way you close the arm slightly. So e.g. for the left arm, you may need to crochet 13 or 15 STs instead of 14 STs before you close it.
Left arm – R29: SC in next 14 STs and then SC the opening together to close the arm {7}
Right arm – R29: SC in next 13 STs and then SC the opening together to close the arm {7}
Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO and weave the yarn tail in
Legs (Hind Legs)
Yarn color: dark purple, light purple and cream yarn
Construction: crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards; you will crochet the claws using modified puff stitches
Start with light purple yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
Change yarn to dark purple
R8: SC in each ST around {42}
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R9: you will crochet the claws in this round using the same technique you used for the arms. But if you are finding this step tricky, you can always SC all the way round in R9 and embroider the claws later. R9 is the same for both left and right leg.
- SC in next 14 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn back to dark purple
- SC in next 5 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 5 STs, change yarn to cream
- 1x MPS into the stitch one round below the next ST, change yarn to dark purple
- SC in next 15 STs {42}
Continue crocheting with dark purple yarn only
R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R13: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R14: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R15-R16 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}
R17: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
You can now start stuffing the leg
R18-R20 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}
R21: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}
R22: SC in each ST around {21}
R23: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R24: SC in each ST around {18}
R25: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}
R26-R28 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
Tip before you close the legs (Pic 2): when you close the leg, you should have seven stitches in a row. Hold the leg in your hand so that the row lies flat. The middle of the row should be roughly aligned with the middle claw. This way, when you attach the legs to the body, the claws will be positioned correctly on the front of the leg.
If your middle claw is not aligned as described above, you may need to adjust the way you close the leg slightly. So e.g. you may need to crochet 13 or 15 STs instead of 14 STs before you close it.
R29 (the same for both legs): SC in next 14 STs and then SC the opening together to close the leg {7}
FO and weave the yarn tail in
Tail
Yarn color: dark purple
Construction: crochet from the end of the tail towards the body
R1: MR – 6x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R5: SC in each ST around {12}
R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}
R7: SC in each ST around {15}
R8: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}
R9: SC in each ST around {18}
R10: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 3 {21}
R11: SC in each ST around {21}
R12: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {24}
R13: SC in each ST around {24}
R14: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 3 {27}
R15: SC in each ST around {27}
R16: SC in next 10 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 10 STs, INC {30}
R17: SC in next 10 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 11 STs, INC {33}
R18: SC in each ST around {33}
R19: SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next ST {36}
R20: SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next 9 STs, INC, SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next ST {39}
R21: SC in each ST around {39}
R22: SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next 10 STs, INC, SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs {42}
R23: SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next 13 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs {45}
R24: SC in each ST around {45}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Stuff well – don’t worry if the stuffing keeps coming out of the tail at this stage. You will be able to stuff it more while sewing it to the body.
Body
Yarn color: dark purple
Construction: crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top; attach legs and arms as you crochet along
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: you will attach the legs to the body in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach legs to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
- SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs
- attach the first leg: SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC (Pic 3 & 4)
- SC in next 3 STs
- attach the second leg: SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC
- SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R11: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}
R12: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}
R13: SC in next 23 STs, INC, SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next 24 STs {75}
R14: SC in next 11 STs, INC, SC in next 50 STs, INC, SC in next 11 STs, INC {78}
R15-R21 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R22: (SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R23: SC in each ST around {72}
R24: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {66}
R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}
R27: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
You can now start stuffing the body
R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R30: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}
R31: SC in each ST around {54}
R32: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R33: SC in each ST around {48}
R34: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}
R35-R36 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R37: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R38: SC in each ST around {36}
R39: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R40: you will attach the arms to the body in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing:
- SC in next 7 STs
- attach the left arm: SC in next 7 STs (Pic 5 & 6)
- SC in next 7 STs
- attach the right arm: SC in next 7 STs
- SC in next 2 STs {30}
Note: if the arms don’t line up neatly with the legs, you may need to move them one or two stitches to the right or left. This can happen due to variations in yarn tension or individual crochet technique.
R41: SC in each ST around {30}
FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing, stuff well
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Horns
Yarn color: cream
Construction: crochet from the point to the base
Large horn – make two:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3 {12}
R4-R5 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}
R7: SC in each ST around {15}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Stuff a little and then finish stuffing while sewing it onto the head
Small horn – make one:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: SC in each ST around {12}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Stuff a little and then finish stuffing while sewing it onto the head
Head
Yarn color: dark purple
Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}
R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R9: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}
R10-R12 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R13: SC in next 15 STs, INC in next 12 STs, SC in next 15 STs {54}
R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54} – leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R14 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
R16: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R17-R18 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R19: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 10 STs {65}
R20-R24 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {65}
R25: SC in next 10 STs, SC in next 49 STs in BLO, SC in next 6 STs {65} – when you finish this round you should have a section of 49 unworked front loops on the top of the head (Pic 7) – you will crochet the frill into these stitches at a later stage
R26: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 10 STs {60}
R27: SC in each ST around {60}
R28: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}
R29: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R30: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}
R31: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
- When you insert the eyes after R31, double-check that FL ST 21 and FL ST 29 in R25 are roughly symmetrical with the eyes (Pic 8). This helps ensure the frill sits straight rather than appearing wonky. If necessary, you can shift the section of front loop stitches by one or two stitches to the left or right. Unfortunately, this would mean frogging your work back to R25 so it’s up to you how perfectly aligned you would like the frill to be with the eyes and rest of the facial features.
- E.g if you need to shift one stitch to the left (while facing the triceratops) – R25: SC in next 11 STs, SC in next 49 STs in BLO, SC in next 5 STs {65}
- E.g. if you need to shift one stitch to the right (while facing the triceratops) – R25: SC in next 9 STs, SC in next 49 STs in BLO, SC in next 7 STs {65}
You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R14 and R15:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes
– 1st eye – count first 18 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST18 and ST19
– 2nd eye – count first 36 STs from the beginning of R14 and place the eye between ST36 and ST37
– you can now insert the safety eyes to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– watch Video #7: How to indent eyes in Amigurumi
– take a long strand of purple yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole
– remove the right eye and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly
– re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R32; continue to stuff the head gradually
R32: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R33: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R34: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R35: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R36: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in.
Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial
Frill
Yarn color: light purple and dark purple
Construction: crochet the frill in rows, start by crocheting the first row into the unworked front loop stitches in R25 of the head
Watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a triceratops frill
Start with light purple color
Row 1: insert your hook into the 1st FL ST in R25 of the head (while facing the triceratops) and pull up a loop; CH 1x – this chain will count as your first ST in this row; SC in next 47 STs, SL ST into last FL ST, CH 1x and TO {49 excl CH at the end}
Row 2: SL ST into 1st ST of the row (i.e. 2nd CH from the hook), SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 7 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs, SL ST into last ST, CH 1x and TO {55 excl CH at the end}
Row 3: SL ST into 1st ST, SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 8 STs, INC, (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 STs, SL ST into last ST, CH 1x and TO {61 excl CH at the end}
Row 4: SL ST into 1st ST, SC in next 6 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 9 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 6 STs, SL ST into last ST, CH 1x and TO {67 excl CH at the end}
Row 5: SL ST into 1st ST, SC in next 6 STs, INC, (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 10 STs, INC, (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 7 STs, SL ST into last ST, CH 1x and TO {73 excl CH at the end}
Row 6: SC in first 8 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 11 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last 8 STs, FO {79}, weave both yarn tails in
How to crochet the edging:
Switch to dark purple yarn
Step 1: create a slip knot on your hook and SC 5x into the right side of the frill while facing the triceratops, i.e. SC once into the side of each row (Pic 9)
Step 2: crochet a SPS into last ST of Row 6 (Pic 10)
Step 3: SC into the same ST you created the SPS in, SC in next 7 STs, SPS, SC in next 11 STs, SPS, (SC in next 12 STs, SPS) x 2, SC in next 11 STs, SPS, SC in next 10 STs, SPS, SC in next 8 STs, SPS in last ST (Pic 11) – push the puff stitches to the front so they stand out more
Step 4: SC into the side of each row, i.e. SC 5x into the side of the frill (Pic 12)
Step 5: FO and weave both yarn tails in (Pic 13 & 14)
Facial Features
Nostrils (Pic 17): Embroider the nostrils using a long strand of yarn (50cm/20 inches). I used the light purple colour. Mark the placement of the nostrils with pins first before you start embroidering. I embroidered the nostrils between R7 and R8 of the head; leaving 8 stitches between them. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi.
Eye detail embroidery (Pic 18): You can also embroider a nice detail around the eyes using white yarn as shown in the photos below.
How to Assemble Your Crochet Triceratops Softie
How to attach the large horns (Pic 15): Start by pinning the large horns onto the head so you can decide on the best placement before sewing them on. Check they look even from the front, sides and top. Once you’re happy, sew them on, adding a little extra stuffing as you go to keep their shape. I positioned mine between R18 and R24 of the head with 8 stitches between them.
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How to attach the small horn (Pic 16): Start by pinning the small horn onto the head to help you find the best placement before sewing it on. Make sure it’s nicely centred between the nostrils, eyes and the larger horns. Once you’re happy, sew it on, adding a little extra stuffing as you go to keep its shape. I positioned mine between R6 and R11 of the head.
How to attach the tail to the body: The best way to do this is to sit your toy up and pin the tail to the lower back making sure your toy is sitting upright and not leaning forwards or backwards. Position the tail in such way so ST20 and ST21 of R24 of the tail is right at the top of the tail.
Once you have the tail pinned to the body, lift the body up and see if you are happy with the placement with the toy ‘standing up’. Check the tail is centred and then sew it on, adding more stuffing if needed while sewing. I placed the tail between R7 and R23 of the body.
How to attach the head to the body: Pin the head to the body first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back. Sew the body to the head while adding more stuffing inside the neck. Adding more stuffing at this stage is important so the head doesn’t wobble.
And you are done! 🙂 I hope you had fun making your own crochet triceratops. And if you want to keep the dinosaur theme going, this pattern pairs really nicely with my crochet T-Rex dinosaur pattern, so you can create a fun matching set.
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Patterns
If you like this crochet triceratops Amigurumi pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
No-Sew crochet mini mouse: Free Amigurumi pattern
Free crochet bunny rabbit pattern
Or explore more of my crochet mythical creatures patterns. These are perfect to transport your little ones into a world of wonder and adventure!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
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