This post may contain affiliate links, please read my full disclosure policy for more details.
This lion lovey crochet pattern combines a little crochet lion with a soft crochet lovey blanket, making it an adorable handmade gift for a baby and a perfect baby shower gift for expecting parents.
If you love making crochet toys, this Amigurumi lion is a cute crochet project to add to your collection and definitely a great way to create something a little different.
This crochet lion lovey pattern includes step-by-step written instructions and photos to guide you through the process, along with video tutorials to help you with some of the more challenging parts. So, even if you’re not sure how to crochet a lion or how to create the lion’s mane, you’ll have extra guidance along the way.
Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- All you need to know is basic stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- Makes an adorable gift for your baby or a unique baby shower gift
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Love taking part in crochet alongs and sharing your progress with other crocheters? This crochet baby lovey was one of the projects we worked on together during my recent Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along and we had so much fun bringing these cute lions to life! If you’d like to join in next time, sign up for free here so you don’t miss out on any of the fun!
How to Crochet a Lovey for Beginners
- The crochet lovey is made up of two main parts – a small crochet animal and a crochet lovey blanket.
- The crochet animal body parts are worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
- The crochet lovey blanket is usually worked in rounds starting from the middle, but some of my blanket patterns are worked in rows.
- All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
- When working on the crochet animal, always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label. This is to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
- The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking hazard for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
- Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks.
Before You Get Started with this Lion Lovey Crochet Pattern
Pattern Notes
Skill level: advanced beginners or intermediate
Finished size when using 3mm (C/2) hook for the body and 3.5mm (E-4) hook for the blanket:
- blanket: 30cm x 30cm (11.8″ x 11.8″)
- head height: 8.5cm (3.4″)
Pattern Gauge
Amigurumi lion:
- using 3 mm crochet hook (C/2) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- flat crochet circle 2″ (5cm) in diameter = 6 rounds with 36 stitches in the last round
Lovey blanket:
- using 3.5mm crochet hook (E/4) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 2″x 2″ (5cm x 5cm) = 10 DC STs x 5 rounds
Yarn Requirements
This lion lovey crochet pattern will work great with the below yarns.
- 100% cotton yarn
- 100% acrylic yarn
- blend of cotton/acrylic or cotton/bamboo
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
Yarn I used for this crochet lovey pattern:
- Light worsted yarn weight yarn (DK #3)
- 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
- 1x skein of Coboo Lion Brand | beige color 122M | (100g/212m)
- ½ skein of Coboo Lion Brand | blue color 106L | (100g/212m)
- ½ skein Coboo Lion Brand | white color 100 | (100g/212m)
You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn from Lion Brand in US and LoveCrafts in UK.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: WeCrochet Animation
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
- blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: YarnArt Jeans
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
- blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK
Materials and Equipment
Materials needed:
- a long piece of black embroidery thread yarn for eye embroidery – 2x 50cm (20″)
- a long piece of black yarn for nose embroidery – 70cm (27.5″)
- polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook sizes:
- If using Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5mm hook (B/1) for the body and 3mm hook (C/2) for the blanket
- If using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm hook (C/2) for the body and 3.5mm hook (E-4) for the blanket
- If using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm hook (E-4) for the body and 4.5mm hook (#7) for the blanket
If you are a beginner, this ergonomic crochet hook set is just perfect for you! It comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Are you a more experienced crocheter? Then you may want to treat yourself to a set of my favorite premium hooks. They are simply the best!
Other equipment needed:
Pattern Abbreviations
This lion lovey crochet pattern is written using standard US terms.
MR: magic ring / magic circle
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain
STR CH: starting chain
CR SP: corner space
MD SP: middle space
SL ST: slip stitch
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)
INV DEC in BLO: invisible decrease in back loop only (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)
BLO: back loops only
WL: whole loop
FL ST: front loop stitch
FO: fasten off
INV FO: invisible fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round
Best Yarn for Amigurumi – Get the Free Guide Now!
Sign up for my newsletter and receive the free guide straight into your inbox. Plus stay in the loop with updates on new designs, tutorials and special offers.
Special Stitches
INV DEC = invisible decrease:
- insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch
- then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
- yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
- yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
INV DEC in BLO = invisible decrease in back loop only:
- insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch
- then insert your hook into the back loop of the following stitch but go in from the back (from behind of the stitch)
- yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
- yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free Amigurumi patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this free crochet lovey pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my free patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
Cuddly Stitches Community
Join thousands of other Amigurumi crocheters in our community. Get help with your projects, show off your creations and share helpful tips and tricks.
How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns
My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.
Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.
Printable Lion Lovey Crochet Pattern
Purchase the ad-free PDF pattern with easy to follow instructions and extra photos.
Just want the free option? Keep scrolling!
Mix and Match Your Crochet Lovey
Do you like this lion lovey crochet pattern? Would like to mix and match the Amigurumi lion with a different crochet lovey blanket? Then you can explore my crochet lovey patterns and pick from these adorable blankets:
Lion Lovey Crochet Pattern: Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Ears
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the top of the ear downwards
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 2 {20}
R5-R7 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {20}
Do not stuff and fold flat instead
R8: SC the opening together to close the ear {9} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO and weave the yarn tail in
Mystery Crochet Along
Join our free crochet along and unravel the mystery as you stitch along with other fellow crocheters.
Arms
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: white, blue and beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards
Start with white yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: SC in each ST around {24}
R6: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 3 {27}
R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to blue color
R9: SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to beige color
R10: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease
R11: SC in each ST around {24}
R12: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm
R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R15: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}
R16: SC in each ST around {15}
R17: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}
Stop stuffing the arm
R18: SC in each ST around {14}
R19: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}
R20: SC in each ST around {13}
R21: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}
R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R25: SC the opening together to close the arm {5}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Head
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: white, blue and beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head
Start with white yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 3 {33}
R7: SC in each ST around {33}
Change yarn to blue color
R8: SC in each ST around {33}
Change yarn to beige color
R9: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs {36}
R10: INC in first ST, SC in next 35 STs {37}
R11: SC in next 13 STs, INC in next 11 STs, SC in next 13 STs {48}
R12: SC in each ST around {48}
R13: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}
R14: SC in each ST around {54}
R15: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
Explore My Popular Pattern Bundles!
Get Lifetime Access to All Patterns!
Don’t miss out on this fantastic offer! Get unlimited access to all of my printable crochet patterns.
R18: WL – SC in next 11 STs, BLO – SC in next 40 STs, WL – SC in next 9 STs {60} – please note that WL means you will crochet into the whole loop as you would normally. I am using this abbreviation to make it extra clear, which stitches will be worked into back loop only (BLO) and which ones into the whole loop (WL)
R19: you will attach the ears to the top of the head in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach ears to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
- WL – SC in next 11 STs
- BLO – SC in next 7 STs
- attach the 1st ear: WL – SC in next 9 STs – Pic 1
- BLO – SC in next 8 STs
- attach the 2nd ear: WL – SC in next 9 STs
- BLO – SC in next 7 STs
- WL – SC in next 9 STs {60} – Pic 2
R20-R21 (2 rounds): WL – SC in next 11 STs, BLO – SC in next 40 STs, WL – SC in next 9 STs {60}
R22: WL – (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs), BLO – [SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs], WL – (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs) {54}
R23: WL – SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next ST, BLO – [SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next ST], WL – (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) {48}
R24: WL – SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs, BLO – [SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 4), SC in next 3 STs] {42}
R25: BLO all around – (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
Start stuffing the head and continue to stuff gradually
R26: BLO all around – SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R27: BLO all around – (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R28: BLO all around – SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R29: BLO all around – (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R30: BLO all around – SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in.
When you close the hole with a needle go through back loops only of the last round so this will be slightly different to what I show in the video. You want to leave the front loops of the last round unworked so you can crochet into them. Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
Mane
Crochet hook:
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
Yarn color: blue yarn
Construction: you will create the mane by crocheting loops into the unworked front loops from R18 of the head onwards
Tip: if you find it difficult to insert your hook into the unworked front loops then use a slightly smaller hook instead but you may need to crochet more chains (e.g. 11 instead of 9) otherwise the loops may be too short
Step 1: create a slip knot on your hook
Step 2: hold the head so it’s facing you and insert your hook into the first front loop ST in R18 of the head and SC once (Pic 3), chain 9 and SC into next front loop ST (Pic 4) – this is your first loop of the mane created
Step 3: SC into FL of next ST, CH 9, SC into FL of next ST – this is second loop of the mane created
Step 4: SC into FL of next ST, CH 9, SC into FL of next ST and repeat till the end of the row – when you crochet in front of the ears chain only 8 instead of 9
Step 5: once you get to the end of the front loops in R18 (Pic 5 & 6), don’t cut the yarn and just simply continue to crochet into the next row (this is the row where the ears are attached). So you will crochet in the opposite direction with the head facing away from you.
Step 6: when you get to the first ear, cut the yarn off and weave the yarn tail in; create a slip knot on your hook with a new strand of yarn and start again on the other side of the ear; repeat when you get to the second ear
Step 7: continue to crochet the mane all around the head and weave the yarn ends in when done
Blanket
Crochet hook – notice you need to use a bigger hook for the blanket:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 3mm hook (C/2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3.5mm hook (E-4)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 4.5mm hook (#7)
Yarn color: beige, blue and white yarn
Construction: crochet the blanket as a square starting from the middle – I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern. Watch this video tutorial on How to start a square crochet lovey blanket
Please note: The photos show the project in different color but you can follow the color instructions given in this pattern.
Start with beige yarn
R1:
- MR – chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a corner space) – make sure you leave a very long tail when creating the magic ring as you will use it to sew the head to the blanket
- 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the magic ring, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the magic ring
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B3 & B4) {20 including the slip stitch}
Planning to sell on Etsy?
Take advantage of this AMAZING OFFER! Open an Etsy shop by clicking on the button below and list your first 40 items FREE!
R2:
- Chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
- 1x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R1 (Pic B5 & B6)
- double crochet into next 3 stitches
- 1x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the second corner space again
- double crochet into next 3 stitches
- 1x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the third corner space again
- double crochet into next 3 stitches
- 1x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R1, chain 2, 1x double crochet into the last corner space again
- double crochet into next 3 stitches
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {28 including the slip stitch}
R3:
- Slip stitch into next chain (Pic B9 & B10), chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
- 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R2
- double crochet into next 5 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again
- double crochet into next 5 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again
- double crochet into next 5 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R2, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again
- double crochet into next 6 stitches
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {44 including the slip stitch}
R4:
- Slip stitch into next chain, chain 5 (the first 3 chains in this starting chain count as a double crochet stitch and the remaining 2 chains will create a new corner space)
- 2x double crochet into the first corner space you created in R3
- double crochet into next 9 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the second corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the second corner space again
- double crochet into next 9 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the third corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the third corner space again
- double crochet into next 9 stitches
- 2x double crochet into the last corner space you created in R3, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the last corner space again
- double crochet into next 10 stitches
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain {60 including the slip stitch}
I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the beginning of this pattern.
R5: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 13 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 14 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {76 incl SL ST}
R6: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 17 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 18 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {92 incl SL ST}
R7: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 21 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 22 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {108 incl SL ST}
R8: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 25 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 26 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {124 incl SL ST}
R9: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 29 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 30 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {140 incl SL ST}
R10: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 33 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 34 ST, change yarn to white color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {156 incl SL ST}
R11: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 37 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 38 ST, change yarn to beige color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {172 incl SL ST}
R12: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 41 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 42 ST, change yarn to blue color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {188 incl SL ST}
R13: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 45 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 46 ST, change yarn to beige color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {204 incl SL ST}
R14: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 49 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 50 ST, change yarn to white color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {220 incl SL ST}
R15: SL ST into next CH, CH 5, (2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 53 ST, 2x DC into CR SP, CH 2) x 3, 2x DC into CR SP, DC in next 54 ST, change yarn to blue color and SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {236 incl SL ST}
R16: SL ST into next CH, CH 3, 3x DC into CR SP, DC in next 57 ST, (5x DC into CR SP, DC in next 57 ST) x 2, 5x DC into CR SP, DC in next 58 ST, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH and INV FO {252 incl SL ST} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off
Weave all yarn tails in apart from the starting tail from the magic ring that you will use for sewing the head on.
If your blanket is too wavy, you may need to block it or gently press it flat with an iron on a low temperature setting.
Save 15% off all PDF patterns!
Sign up for my newsletter and receive a discount on all current and future patterns purchased on Etsy. Plus stay in the loop with updates on new designs, tutorials and special offers.
Facial Features
Nose embroidery – Pic 7 & 8:
– embroider the nose using a long strand of black yarn – about 70cm/27.5″ long
– mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering
– I embroidered the nose between R2 and R5 of the head; leaving 4 stitches between the pins at the top (count INC as 2 stitches)
– watch this video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on an Amigurumi toy
Eyes Embroidery – Pic 9 & 10:
– embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn (about 50cm/20″ long) as shown in the photo
– I embroidered the eyes between R10 and R13 of the head leaving 5 INC stitches in between the eyes
– watch this video tutorial on How to embroider eyes on Amigurumi
How to Assemble Your Crochet Comforter
How to Attach the Lion Head to the Blanket
Before attaching the head to the blanket, decide which direction you would like the lion to face. I like to position the head so that the lion is facing towards one of the corners of the blanket. If possible, position the head so that the join where you finished the rounds is at the back.
I sew the head to the blanket following the two-circle pattern shown in Pic 11. However, don’t worry if you find the assembly instructions a little difficult to follow. You can attach the head in whichever way works best for you.
First circle:
- use the yarn tail left from creating the magic ring when starting the blanket
- thread the yarn needle with the yarn tail and pull it through the magic ring to the right side of the blanket
- use a pin to mark the centre of the bottom of the head
- pull the needle through the stitches around the pin, then pull it through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring, as shown in Pic 12
Second circle:
- using the same yarn tail, continue sewing the head to the blanket, working in a larger circle around the first circle – Pic 13
- if the head still feels a little wobbly, add another, slightly larger circle of stitches to secure it more firmly
- and then weave the yarn end in
How to Attach the Arms
Pin the arms to the blanket on either side of the head (Pic 14) making sure they are evenly positioned and sit snugly against the head. Sew the arms securely to the blanket and weave the yarn tails in. The arms will also help support the head and make it more stable.
You have now finished your crochet security blanket! I hope you found my crochet lion lovey pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it!
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Patterns
If you like this lion lovey crochet pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Free puppy lovey crochet pattern
Or browse through my collection of crochet lovey and rattle patterns and make something special for your baby. Or surprise your friends and family with a perfect gift for their baby!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.
