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If you love puppies as much as I do, you’re going to have fun working with my puppy lovey crochet pattern! It combines an adorable Amigurumi puppy with a soft crochet lovey blanket, making it a thoughtful handmade gift for your baby or a lovely baby shower gift. If you enjoy making crochet animals, this little crochet dog snuggler is a fun crochet project to add to your list!
I’ve included step-by-step instructions, photos and tutorial videos as usual to help you through the trickier parts of this crochet puppy lovey pattern, so you can crochet along with me and feel confident as you go.
Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- All you need to know is basic stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- Makes an adorable gift for your baby or a unique baby shower gift
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Whether you’re looking for a crochet baby lovey to make for someone special or want to learn how to crochet a lovey, I hope you’ll enjoy making this little pup as much as I enjoyed designing it. Our community certainly did! This puppy crochet security blanket was one of the popular Amigurumi patterns featured in our recent Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along, and it was so much fun seeing everyone’s finished crochet toys. If you’d like to join us for our next crochet along, make sure to sign up for free so you don’t miss out!
How to Crochet a Lovey for Beginners
- The crochet lovey is made up of two main parts – a small crochet animal and a crochet lovey blanket.
- The crochet animal body parts are worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
- The crochet lovey blanket is usually worked in rounds starting from the middle, but some of my blanket patterns are worked in rows.
- All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
- When working on the crochet animal, always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label. This is to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
- The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking hazard for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
- Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks.
Before You Get Started with this Puppy Lovey Crochet Pattern
Pattern Notes
Skill level: intermediate
Finished size when using 3mm (C/2) hook for the body and 3.5mm (E-4) hook for the blanket:
- blanket: 37cm in diameter (10.5″)
- head height: 9cm (3.5″)
Pattern Gauge
Amigurumi puppy:
- using 3 mm crochet hook (C/2) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- flat crochet circle 2″ (5cm) in diameter = 6 rounds with 36 stitches in the last round
Lovey blanket:
- using 3.5mm crochet hook (E/4) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 2″x 2″ (5cm x 5cm) = 10 DC STs x 5 rounds
Yarn Requirements
This puppy lovey crochet pattern will work great with the below yarns.
- 100% cotton yarn
- 100% acrylic yarn
- blend of cotton/acrylic or cotton/bamboo
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
Yarn I used for this crochet lovey pattern:
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
- 1x skein of Coboo Lion Brand | beige color 122M | (100g/212m)
- ½ skein of Coboo Lion Brand | pink color 102Y | (100g/212m)
- ½ skein Coboo Lion Brand | white color 100 | (100g/212m)
You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn from Lion Brand in US and LoveCrafts in UK.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: WeCrochet Animation
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
- blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: YarnArt Jeans
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
- blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK
Materials and Equipment
Materials needed:
- a long piece of black embroidery thread yarn for eye embroidery – 2x 50cm (20″)
- a long piece of black yarn for nose embroidery – 70cm (27.5″)
- polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook sizes:
- If using Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5mm hook (B/1) for the body and 3mm hook (C/2) for the blanket
- If using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3): 3mm hook (C/2) for the body and 3.5mm hook (E-4) for the blanket
- If using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4): 3.5mm hook (E-4) for the body and 4.5mm hook (#7) for the blanket
If you are a beginner, this ergonomic crochet hook set is just perfect for you! It comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Are you a more experienced crocheter? Then you may want to treat yourself to a set of my favorite premium hooks. They are simply the best!
Other equipment needed:
Pattern Abbreviations
This puppy lovey crochet pattern is written using standard US terms.
– MR: magic ring/magic circle
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– CH: chain
– STR CH: starting chain
– FSP: first space
– NSP: next space
– SSP: same space
– SL ST: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
– FO: fasten off
– INV FO: invisible fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
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Special Stitches
INV DEC = invisible decrease:
- insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch
- then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
- yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
- yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free Amigurumi patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this free crochet lovey pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
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How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns
My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.
Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.
Printable Puppy Lovey Crochet Pattern
Purchase the ad-free PDF pattern with easy to follow instructions and extra photos.
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Mix and Match Your Crochet Lovey
Do you like this puppy lovey crochet pattern? Would like to mix and match the Amigurumi puppy with a different crochet lovey blanket? Then you can explore my crochet lovey patterns and pick from these adorable blankets:
Puppy Lovey Crochet Pattern: Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Ears
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: pink and beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the top of the ear downwards
Make one ear beige and the other one pink
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}
R4: SC in each ST around {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {18}
R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R11: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}
R12: Do not stuff and SC the opening together to close the ear {7} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece
FO and weave the yarn tail in
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Arms
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: white, pink and beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards
Start with white yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: SC in each ST around {24}
R6: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 3 {27}
R7-R8 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to pink color
R9: SC in each ST around {27}
Change your yarn to beige color
R10: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease
R11: SC in each ST around {24}
R12: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
Start stuffing the arm
R13-R14 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R15: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}
R16: SC in each ST around {15}
R17: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}
Stop stuffing the arm
R18: SC in each ST around {14}
R19: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}
R20: SC in each ST around {13}
R21: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}
R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}
R25: SC the opening together to close the arm {5}
FO leaving a long tail for sewing
Head
Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: white, pink and beige yarn
Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head
Start with white yarn
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 3 {33}
R7: SC in each ST around {33}
Change yarn to pink color
R8: SC in each ST around {33}
Change yarn to beige color
R9: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs {36}
R10: INC in first ST, SC in next 35 STs {37}
R11: SC in next 13 STs, INC in next 11 STs, SC in next 13 STs {48}
R12: SC in each ST around {48}
R13: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}
R14: SC in each ST around {54}
R15: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}
R16-R18 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
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R19: you will attach the ears to the head in this round – watch this video tutorial on How to attach ears to your Amigurumi toy without sewing
- SC in next 20 STs
- attach the 1st ear: SC in next 7 STs – Pic 1
- SC in next 8 STs
- attach the 2nd ear: SC in next 7 STs
- SC in next 18 STs {60} – Pic 2
R20-R21 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}
R22: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}
R23: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R24: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}
R25: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
Start stuffing the head and continue to stuff gradually
R26: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}
R27: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R28: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R29: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R30: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn end in
Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
Ear Sculpting
You can now sculpt the puppy ears to give them a nice floppy shape.
– thread your yarn needle with a longer strand of the same yarn you used to make the head
– pull the needle through a couple of the front stitches at the top of the ear, leaving a longer tail – Pic 3
– pull the needle through a couple of stitches on the head, roughly halfway in front of the ear – Pic 4
– pull both yarn tails tight to fold the ear forward and down – Pic 5
– tie a double knot with both yarn tails and weave the tails inside the head
– repeat for the other ear to complete the floppy ears – Pic 6
Blanket
Crochet hook – notice you need to use a bigger hook for the blanket:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 3mm hook (C/2)
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3.5mm hook (E-4)
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 4.5mm hook (#7)
Yarn color: beige, pink and white yarn
Construction: crochet the blanket as an 8 pointed star starting from the middle – I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.
Please note: The photos show the project in different color but you can follow the color instructions given in this pattern.
Start with beige yarn
R1:
- Magic ring – chain 4 – this is your starting chain – make sure you leave a very long yarn tail when creating the magic ring as you will use it to sew the head to the blanket
- (1x double crochet into the ring, chain 1) x 7
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain (Pic B3)
- at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B4)
- {16 including the slip stitch}
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R2:
- slip stitch into the first space – between the starting chain and first double crochet in R1 (Pic B5)
- chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
- 1x double crochet into the same space
- (chain 2, 2x double crochet into the next space) x 7
- chain 2, slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
- at the end of this round you will have a circle with 8 sets of 2x double crochet stitches (starting chain counts as a double crochet) and 8 spaces in between them (Pic B10)
- {32 including the slip stitch}
R3:
- slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B11)
- slip stitch into the first space (Pic B12)
- chain 3 – this is your starting chain in this round
- 1x double crochet into the same space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space (Pic B14)
- (2x double crochet into the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space) x 7
- slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
- you will notice that we started to create the 8 points of the star in this round (Pic B17)
- {48 including the slip stitch}
R4:
- slip stitch into next stitch (Pic B18)
- chain 3 – this will be your starting chain in this round
- 2x double crochet into the first space, chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – watch out for this stitch because it is often hidden under the double crochet stitches you made into the space and can be easily missed (Pic B20 & B21)
- (skip 2 stitches, 1x double crochet in the next stitch, 2x double crochet in the next space, chain 2, 2x double crochet in the same space, 1x double crochet in the next stitch – again watch out for this stitch) x 7
- skip 2 stitches and slip stitch into 3rd chain of the starting chain
- in this round, the 8 points of the star are becoming more prominent (Pic B24)
- {64 including the slip stitch}
Notice that there are 3 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point. Going forward, in each round, the number of double crochet stitches will increase by 1 on each side of the star point, e.g. in R5 you will have 4 double crochet stitches on each side of the star point.
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I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the beginning of this pattern.
R5: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next ST, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 2 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {80 incl SL ST}
R6: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 2 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 3 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {96 incl SL ST}
R7: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 3 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 4 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {112 incl SL ST}
R8: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 4 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 5 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {128 incl SL ST}
R9: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 5 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 6 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {144 incl SL ST}
R10: SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 6 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 7 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {160 incl SL ST}
R11: Change yarn to white color and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 7 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 8 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {176 incl SL ST}
R12: Change yarn to pink color and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 8 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 9 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {192 incl SL ST}
R13: Change yarn to white color and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 9 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 10 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {208 incl SL ST}
R14: Change yarn to pink color and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 10 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 11 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH {224 incl SL ST}
R15: Change yarn to white color and SL ST into next ST, CH 3, DC in next 11 STs, 2x DC into FSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs, (skip 2 STs, DC in next 12 STs, 2x DC into NSP, CH 2, 2x DC into SSP, DC in next 12 STs) x 7, skip 2 STs, SL ST into 3rd CH of STR CH and INV FO {240 incl SL ST} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible fasten off
Weave all yarn tails in apart from the starting tail from the magic ring that you will use for sewing the head on.
If your blanket is too wavy, you may need to block it or gently press it flat with an iron on a low temperature setting.
Facial Features
Nose embroidery – Pic 7 & 8:
– embroider the nose using a long strand of black yarn – about 70cm/27.5″ long
– mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering
– I embroidered the nose between R2 and R5 of the head; leaving 4 stitches between the pins at the top (count INC as 2 stitches)
– watch this video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on an Amigurumi toy
Eyes Embroidery – Pic 9 & 10:
– embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn (about 50cm/20″ long) as shown in the photo
– I embroidered the eyes between R10 and R13 of the head leaving 5 INC stitches in between the eyes
– watch this video tutorial on How to embroider eyes on Amigurumi
How to Assemble Your Crochet Comforter
How to Attach the Head to the Blanket
Before attaching the head to the blanket, decide which direction you would like the puppy to face. I like to position the head so that the puppy is facing towards one of the points of the star. If possible, position the head so that the join where you finished the rounds is at the back.
I sew the head to the blanket following the two-circle pattern shown in Pic 11. However, don’t worry if you find the assembly instructions a little difficult to follow. You can attach the head in whichever way works best for you.
First circle:
- use the yarn tail left from creating the magic ring when starting the blanket
- thread the yarn needle with the yarn tail and pull it through the magic ring to the right side of the blanket
- use a pin to mark the centre of the head on the underside
- pull the needle through the stitches around the pin, then pull it through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring, as shown in Pic 12
Second circle:
- using the same yarn tail, continue sewing the head to the blanket, working in a larger circle around the first circle – Pic 13
- if the head still feels a little wobbly, add another, slightly larger circle of stitches to secure it more firmly
- and then weave the yarn end in
How to Attach the Arms
Pin the arms to the blanket on either side of the head (Pic 14) making sure they are evenly positioned and sit snugly against the head. Sew the arms securely to the blanket and weave the yarn tails in. The arms will also help support the head and make it more stable.
You have now finished your crochet security blanket! I hope you found my puppy dog lovey crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it!
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Patterns
If you like this puppy lovey crochet pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Or browse through my collection of crochet lovey and rattle patterns and make something special for your baby. Or surprise your friends and family with a perfect gift for their baby!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.
