This Amigurumi giraffe reminds me so much of this book we used to read to our daughter when she was little. The story was about a giraffe called Gerald who could not dance and it was one of our daughter’s favourites. So, of course, I had no choice…I simply had to call my free crochet giraffe pattern ‘Gerald the Giraffe’! 🙂 Why don’t you have a go at making it and see if you can teach your giraffe dance the ‘Jungle tango’! 🙂

Free Crochet Giraffe Pattern – Notes

Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size when seated: 27cm / 10.5 inches

Finished size from horns to toes: 34cm / 13.5 inches

Free Crochet Giraffe Pattern – Materials and Equipment

Yarn I used for this free crochet giraffe pattern:

– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply

– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend

– 2x ball of yellow yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 35 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 40 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 01 – (50g/160m)

– 1x ball of light brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)

I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon HERE or from Etsy HERE. If you would like to check some great substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Making Amigurumi tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.

Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.

Other materials used: polyester fibre fill, a long piece of black thread yarn for eye brow embroidery

Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1 (2mm for the eyelash yarn), if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm safety eyes

Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.

Free Crochet Giraffe Pattern – Let’s Get Started!

You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet giraffe pattern. And don’t forget to watch my step by step video tutorials for extra help with my patterns.

To view the free online pattern, please continue to scroll down. You can also download the ad-free and printable version of this pattern for a small fee here. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free online patterns for everyone to enjoy.

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How to Crochet the Ears

Crochet from the top of the ear downwards

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R4: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}

R5: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {18}

R6: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}

R7-R10 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi

R12: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12}

R14: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing, do not stuff the ears

Ear embroidery:

I decided to embroider the ears after assembly, but you can embroider them as per the photo below at this stage, i.e. before attaching them to the head. I embroidered the ears between R10 and R14.

How to Crochet the Horns

Crochet from the top of the horn downwards

Start with brown yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4-R7 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R8: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

Start stuffing

R9: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next ST {9}

Change your yarn to yellow colour

R10-R14 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {9}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing, stuff well

How to Crochet the Head

Crochet from the front to the back of the head

Start with brown yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8-R10 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 13 ST, INC) x 3 {45}

R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {45}

R14: SC in next 7 ST, INC, (SC in next 14 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 7 ST {48}

R15: SC in each ST around {48}

Change your yarn to yellow colour

R16: SC in each ST around {48}

R17: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST, INC in next 7 ST, SC in next 4 ST, INC in next ST, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 2 {60}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60} – leave a stitch marker in at the start of R19 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes

R20: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R21: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R22-R28 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R29: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R30: SC in each ST around {66}

R31: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

R32: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R33: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R34: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R35: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)

– place the eyes between rounds R19 and R20

– first eye – count 21 stitches from your marker at the start of R19 and place the eye between ST21 and ST22

– second eye – count 38 stitches from your marker at the start of R19 and place the eye between ST38 and ST39

– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this step by step video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi (eye sculpting)

– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye; place the needle in the stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)

– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into the stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– place your needle in another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again (Pic H5)

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly

– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R36

Continue to stuff gradually

R36: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R37: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R38: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R39: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R40: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a yarn needle and weave the yarn end in.

Watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

How to Crochet the Body

Crochet from the bottom of the body to the top

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}

R13: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}

R14-R20 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R21: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}

R24: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}

R25-R27 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {66}

R28: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}

You can now start stuffing the body

R29: SC in each ST around {60}

R30: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}

R31: SC in each ST around {54}

R32: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R33: SC in each ST around {48}

R34: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}

R35: SC in each ST around {42}

R36: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R37: SC in each ST around {36}

R38: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R39-R40 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R41: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 4 ST {27}

R42-R43 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {27}

R44: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {24}

R45-R50 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing and stuff well

How to Crochet the Arms

Crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

Start with brown yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: BLO – SC in each ST around {36}

R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}

R10: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

Change your yarn to yellow colour

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R17: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

You can now start stuffing the arm

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R23: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 ST {15}

R24-R26 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

You can now stop stuffing the arm

R27: INV DEC, SC in next 13 ST {14}

R28-R31 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {14}

R32: SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long tail for sewing

How to Crochet the Legs

Crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards

Start with brown yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: BLO – SC in each ST around {42}

R9-R10 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R12: SC in each ST around {36}

R13: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}

R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}

Change your yarn to yellow colour

R16: SC in each ST around {30}

R17: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

You can now start stuffing the leg

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R20: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 ST {21}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}

R23: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R24-R25 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

You can now stop stuffing the leg

R26: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}

R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}

R29: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}

R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

R32: SC the opening together to close the leg, FO leaving a long tail for sewing

How to Crochet the Tail

Crochet from the end of the tail

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}

R4: SC in each ST around {12}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R6: SC in each ST around {18}

R7: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}

R8-R11 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

You can now start stuffing the tail

R12: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}

R13: SC in each ST around {18}

R14: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

Change your yarn to yellow colour

R15-R30 (16 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

FO leaving a long tail of yarn for sewing and stuff well

How to Crochet the Spots

Crochet as a circle

Crochet 6 spots…two of each colour

R1: MR – (1x SC into MR, CH 2x)…this will count as your first DC, 11x DC into MR {12}

Join the round with an invisible join:

– cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch

– thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail

– insert your needle into the top of the 2^nd DC and pull the yarn through (Pic S1)

– insert your needle into the top of the 12^th DC – make sure to insert the needle through the middle of the stitch as if you were going to crochet into back loop only (Pic S2)

– you have now created a new ‘v’ stitch that will be placed on top of the 1^st DC (Pic S3)

– pull tight until the ‘v’ stitch is the same size as the remaining stitches (Pic S4)

– don’t weave the yarn ends in as you will use them to sew the spots to the body

Free Crochet Giraffe Pattern – Assembly

Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R28 and R30 of the head with 22 STs in between them.

Head and horns: Pin the horns to the head first making sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the back too. Sew the horns to the head and add more stuffing if needed. I placed the ears between R26 and R29 of the head with 7 STs in between them.

Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and back, however you can attach the head as per your preference. Sew the body to the head while adding more stuffing. If you stuff the neck really well, it will hold the head nicely and no additional support will be needed.

Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R34 and R41 of the body.

Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in the photo above making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the body. I placed the legs between R3 and R10 of the body.

Tail: Pin the tail to the body first making sure that it is placed in the centre of the lower back. Sew the tail to the body, adding more stuffing if needed. I placed the tail between R11 and R16 of the body.

Spots: Choose where you would like to place the spots and sew them to the body. I placed 3 spots on the belly and another 3 spots on the back. You can choose to crochet more spots and place them all over the body.

Face embroidery: Embroider the eye lids, eye brows and nostrils as shown in the photos below. I embroidered the eye brows between R22 and R24 and the nostrils between R5 and R8 of the head.

Free Crochet Giraffe Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:

You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet giraffe pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the giraffe!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft

Visit my free Amigurumi patterns for more crochet toys you will love!

More Free Amigurumi patterns for you to enjoy:

Free Crochet Snail Pattern
Free Crochet Koala Pattern
Free Crochet Fox Pattern