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Although I am not very keen on real spiders, I really wanted to add one to my Amigurumi collection. So, here it comes! 🙂 This free crochet spider pattern is pretty easy! And it is an ideal project for crochet beginners as there is minimum sewing involved. And with Halloween around the corner, this Amigurumi spider can be a nice decoration for your house too.

Why You Will Love this Pattern!
- Low-sew: all you need to sew on is the legs to the body
- All you need to know is basic crochet stitches
- Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
- Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
- Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
- I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern
- And more importantly…you will have fun making a beautiful gift for your little one or family and friends
Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Free Crochet Spider Pattern – Before You Get Started
Pattern Notes
Skill level: beginner crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when using a 2.5mm crochet hook (B/1) and Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply:
– length: 15cm / 6 inches
– width: 19cm / 7.5 inches
– height: 8cm / 3 inches
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Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 1x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 29 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of multicolour yarn – YarnArt Jeans Tropical – colour 616 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 53 – (50g/160m)
For the hairy neck:
– Light Worsted #3 = DK
– 100% polyester
– 1x ball of black yarn – Stylecraft Eskimo eyelash yarn – colour 5172 – (50g/90m)
I like to purchase my YarnArt Jeans from Amazon or from Etsy.
Or just simply use any 100% cotton that will work just as well. You can also use 100% acrylic if you prefer to work with this type of yarn.
Yarn Substitutes
US Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
- blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton:: WeCrochet Animation DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: WeCrochet Brava
UK Suppliers:
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):
- 100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):
- 100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
- blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4):
- 100% acrylic: Universal Yarn Uptown
- 100% acrylic: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey
If you would like to check some more substitutes for YarnArt Jeans then have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial. You can find the substitutes towards the end of the article.
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 2.5mm = B/1, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use instead, 12mm and 8mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Abbreviations Used
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
MR: magic ring
ST: stitch
SC: single crochet stitch
HDC: half double crochet stitch
DC: double crochet stitch
CH: chain stitch
SL: slip stitch
INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook) and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease.
BLO: back loops only
FO: fasten off
(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)
{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round

Video Tutorials
If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.
And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.
Need Help with this Amigurumi Spider Pattern?
The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.
Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.
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How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns
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Printable Crochet Spider Pattern
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Free Crochet Spider Pattern – Step by Step Instructions
You can find the free crochet cat pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.
Head and Body
Crochet from the front of the head to the back of the body.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: SC in next 2 ST, INC, (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: SC in next 3 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {48} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R8 and R11 as you will need to refer to it when placing eyes
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10-R17 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R18: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48} – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease for Amigurumi
R19: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
12mm eyes:
– place the eyes between rounds R8 and R9
– first eye – count 19 stitches from your marker at the start of R8 and place the eye between ST19 and ST20
– second eye – count 28 stitches from your marker at the start of R8 and place the eye between ST28 and ST29
8mm eyes:
– place the eyes between rounds R11 and R12
– first eye – count 20 stitches from your marker at the start of R11 and place the eye between ST20 and ST21
– second eye – count 33 stitches from your marker at the start of R11 and place the eye between ST33 and ST34
– you can now place the safety backs on (Pic H2)
R21: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R22: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R23-R26 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around in BLO {24}
Change yarn to multicolour yarn
R27: (SC in next ST, INC) x 12 {36}
R28: (SC in next ST, INC) x 18 {54}
R29-R30 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
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You can now crochet the hairy neck line using your eyelash yarn:
– watch this step by step video tutorial on Easy way how to crochet Amigurumi with eyelash yarn
– attach the yarn to the first ST in R23 of the head and SC into each front loop of R23-R26 (Pic H3)
– FO and weave yarn ends in
Continue with R31 and stuff the body gradually.

R31: SC in next 4 ST, INC, (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {60}
R32: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R33: SC in next 5 ST, INC, (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {72}
R34: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R35-R44 (10 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R45: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R46: SC in each ST around {72}
R47: SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 5 ST {66}
R48: SC in each ST around {66}
R49: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R50: SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 ST {54}
R51: SC in each ST around {54}
R52: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R53: SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 ST {42}
R54: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R55: SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 ST {30}
R56: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R57: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}
R58: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R59: SC in each ST around {12}
Stuff well, FO closing the hole using a yarn needle – watch this step by step video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece
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Legs
Crochet from the end of the leg.
Crochet 8 legs and stuff gradually:
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3-R24 (22 ROUNDS) SC in each ST around {12}
Stop stuffing the leg
R25: INV DEC, SC in next 10 ST {11}
R26-R27 (2 ROUNDS) SC in each ST around {11}
R28: INV DEC, SC in next 9 ST {10}
R29-R30 (2 ROUNDS) SC in each ST around {10}
FO and weave yarn ends in for 6 of the legs, leave long tails for sewing for the remaining 2 legs.
If you stuff the legs really well, they will keep the shape when you bend them. Otherwise you can insert craft wire to shape the legs.
How to Assemble Your Crochet Spider Softie
Body and legs: First sew 4 legs together using a yarn needle as shown in the photo below. Repeat the same for the remaining 4 legs. Then pin the legs to each side of the hairy neckline making sure they look symmetrical. Then sew the legs to the neckline.

You have now finished your crochet animal! And if you enjoyed the easy assembly then you will love these patterns:
Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
If you like this free crochet spider pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!
Free crochet caterpillar pattern
Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern
Free crochet witch hat pattern
Or explore more of my crochet garden animals patterns. And make a cute creepy crawly that will make a perfect gift for all little ones who love garden creatures!
Happy crocheting!
Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.
Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.
I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.
I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.
You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.
My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.

Thank you so much for sharing this pattern! So far, I’ve got everything but the legs done of my spider and my 3 yo son is already in love with it. (He loves all things a little spooky) ☺️
Hi Kelsi, so happy to hear your son loves my spider even before it’s finished. 🙂 I hope he is even more happy with the finished toy. 🙂 And you are very welcome! 🙂
Love,
Petra x
I love all your Amigurumis and have completed the penguin, butterfly and now working on the spider. Never worked with eyelash yarn but your tutorial was great thank you. If you can let me know how to sew the legs together that would be very helpful. Do I squeeze them together or do we sew them on top of one another to fit against the next. Thanks you are so helpful.
Thank you so much Barbara, really happy to hear you like my patterns and learned something new from my tutorials too. 🙂
To assemble the spider legs you place them next to each other, pinch them at the ends and sew them together by pulling a needle through all of them from side to side several times. Then you sew them onto the body.
Hope this helps but please let me know if you need more help. 🙂
Love, Petra x
Hi! I really like this pattern, but have one question. What round should I switch colors for the body? I don’t know if I should change colors before I do the furry neck or after. Thank you!
Hi Mollie, thank you for your message. You should change colours after R26. I see that instruction was missing in the pattern so I have now added that in. Thank you for drawing my attention to it. 🙂
Love, Petra x
Thank you so much!!
Hi Traci, you are more than welcome! I hope you enjoy making the spider. 🙂
Love, Petra
hi I’m not understanding row 8 of the spider thank you
Hi Gina, thank you for your comment. I will explain in more detail how to crochet R8.
You start with SC in first 3 STs, then INC, then SC in next 6 STs, then INC, then SC in next 6 STs, then INC, then SC in next 6 STs, then INC, then SC in next 6 STs, then INC, then SC in next 6 STs, then INC, SC in last 3 STs. You can use additional stitch markers or strings to leave in at the beginning of R8 and R11 so you can refer to them later on when placing the eyes.
I hope this helps but please do get in touch if you have more questions.
Kind regards,
Petra