Crochet Otter Free Pattern: Low-Sew Amigurumi Otter

I am so excited to finally share this with you: my crochet otter free pattern is here and it is the same one that made waves during my latest mystery crochet along! Everyone fell in love with this adorable low-sew Amigurumi otter and I hope you will too. It is a fun crochet project that is just too cute to resist.

There is minimal sewing involved so you don’t have to worry about attaching too many parts at the assembly stage. I have also added multiple video tutorials to walk you through the tricky parts step by step. From shaping the head to attaching the limbs without sewing, I have you covered.

And when it comes to the otter whiskers, you have two options! You can either embroider them or use fishing line for a super cute, realistic finish. And yes, there is a video tutorial for the fishing line whiskers too!

This free otter crochet pattern gives you everything you need to create the sweetest crocheted otter. Whether you are keeping it or giving it away, it is sure to be loved wherever it goes.

How to Crochet an Otter

• This crochet otter free pattern is worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. This way you will avoid having a visible seem on your crochet toy.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
• I always recommend using the invisible decrease that will give you a nicer finish without visible bumps and gaps. Refer to the ‘special stitches’ section.
• Always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
• This free crochet otter pattern requires minimal sewing at assembly. The arms, legs and ears are attached to the body without sewing. You will only need to sew on the tail and the head to the body.
• The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
• Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks

Before You Get Started with this Crochet Otter Free Pattern

Pattern Notes

Difficulty level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge but also suitable for an advanced beginner

Sewing level: low-sew, all you need to sew on is the tail and the head to the body

Finished size – using 2.5 mm crochet hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

• when seated: 19 cm (7.5″)
• when standing: 24 cm (9.5″)

Pattern Gauge

Flat crochet circle 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter:

– when using 2.5 mm hook (B/1) and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)

– 7 rounds with 42 stitches in the last round

Pattern for gauge:

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: SC in next 2 STs, INC, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

Yarn Requirements

This otter amigurumi free pattern will work great with the below yarns.

• 100% cotton yarn, 100% acrylic yarn or a blend of cotton and acrylic
• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• Plush yarn/velvet yarn (Bulky #5)

Yarn I used for this Amigurumi otter pattern:

• Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 55% cotton and 45% acrylic blend
• brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 40 – (50g/160m)
• beige yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 07 – (50g/160m)
• black yarn – YarnArt Jeans – color 53 – (50g/160m)

Purchase YarnArt Jeans yarn from Amazon or from Etsy.

Yardage – when using 2.5mm or B/1 crochet hook and Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

• brown yarn – about 60g (192m = 209yds)
• beige yarn – about 10g (32m = 35yds)
• black yarn – about 1m = 1yds

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

• black thread embroidery yarn – about 2m (2.25yds)
• (optional) black nylon fishing line, ideally 0.4mm but 0.35mm will also work – about 2m (2.25yds)
• polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

• 2.5 mm crochet hook (B-1) for Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
• 3 mm crochet hook (C-2) for Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (E-4) for Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4)
• if using a different weight of yarn then refer to the hook size recommendations on the yarn label but go at least one size smaller

I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hooks set from Amazon as it comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Other equipment needed:

• scissors
• tapestry needle/yarn needle
• pins with large heads
• stitch marker
• 12 mm safety eyes

Pattern Abbreviations

This crochet otter free pattern is written using US crochet terms.

MR: magic ring/magic circle

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain

SL ST: slip stitch

INC/SC INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease (refer to ‘special stitches’ section)

BLO: back loop only

FL ST: front loop stitch

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

Special Stitches

INV DEC = invisible decrease:

• insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch
• then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
• yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
• yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free Amigurumi pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with free Amigurumi crochet patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Otter Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How to Download My Amigurumi Patterns

My free Amigurumi patterns are supported by ads on this website and are not downloadable or printable. But you can download the ad-free PDF pattern for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry shop.

Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website. So I can continue to publish my free online patterns on this blog for everyone to enjoy.

Crochet Otter Free Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the crochet otter pattern (free version) below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Arms (Front Legs)

Yarn color: brown yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5-R10 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {24}

R11: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R12: SC in each ST around {21}

R13: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

R14-R16 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

Start stuffing the arm

R17: INV DEC, SC in next 16 STs {17}

R18: SC in each ST around {17}

R19: INV DEC, SC in next 15 STs {16}

Stop stuffing the arm

R20: SC in each ST around {16}

R21: INV DEC, SC in next 14 STs {15}

R22-R24 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}

R25: SC the opening together to close the arm {7}

Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Embroider the paws using a black thread yarn between R2 and R8 leaving 3 stitches in between. Use about 30cm (12 inches) of embroidery yarn for each paw. (Pic 1)

I didn’t pull on the embroidery yarn too tight to sculpt the paws. But if you wish to have more sculpted toes then make sure to pull on the embroidery yarn tight.

Legs (Hind Legs)

Yarn color: brown yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the leg upwards

R1: Chain 8 STs {8} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help out with R1 to R4 – the video starts with a different number of chains but the technique is the same

R2: SC in next 7 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 5 STs, INC in last ST {16}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 5 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 5 STs, INC in last 2 STs {22}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {28}

R5-R9 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {28}

R10: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 1, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 2 {22}

R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {22}

R13: INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs {20}

R14: SC in each ST around {20}

R15: INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 9 STs {18}

R16: SC in each ST around {18}

R17: INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs {16}

R18-R19 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}

Stuff up to R15

R20: SC in next ST and then SC the opening together to close the leg {7}

FO and weave the yarn tail in

Embroider the paws using a black thread yarn between R1 and R8 leaving 4 stitches in between. Use about 30cm (12 inches) of embroidery yarn for each paw. (Pic 2)

I didn’t pull on the embroidery yarn too tight to sculpt the paws. But if you wish to have more sculpted toes then make sure to pull on the embroidery yarn tight.

Tail

Yarn color: brown yarn

Construction: crochet from the end of the tail towards the body

R1: MR – 6x SC into the ring {6}

R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}

R3: SC in each ST around {9}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in next ST {12}

R5-R8 (4 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R9: SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs {13}

R10: SC in each ST around {13}

R11: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs {14}

R12: SC in each ST around {14}

R13: SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs {15}

R14: SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs {17}

R15: SC in each ST around {17}

R16: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs {19}

R17: SC in each ST around {19}

R18: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs {21}

R19: SC in each ST around {21}

R20: SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs {24}

R21: SC in each ST around {24}

R22: SC in next 8 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs {27}

R23: SC in each ST around {27}

R24: SC in next 9 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs {30}

R25: SC in each ST around {30}

R26: SC in next 10 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs {33}

R27-R28 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {33}

R29: SC in next 3 STs and do not finish the round {3} – this is just so the FO is more on the bottom of the tail rather than on the side of it

FO leaving a long tail for sewing

Stuff well – don’t worry if the stuffing keeps coming out of the tail at this stage. You will be able to stuff it more while sewing it to the body.

Body

Yarn color: brown and beige yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the body towards the top; attach legs and arms as you crochet along

Start with brown yarn

R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 6 {30}

R6: you will attach the legs to the body in this round (Pic 3 & 4) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach legs to your Amigurumi toy without sewing

• SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs
• attach the first leg: SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC
• SC in next 4 STs
• attach the second leg: INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next ST
• SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs {36}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 6 {42}

R8: SC in next 3 STs, INC, (SC in next 6 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {48}

R9: (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 6 {54}

R10: SC in next 4 STs, INC, (SC in next 8 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {60}

R11: (SC in next 9 STs, INC) x 6 {66}

R12: SC in next 5 STs, INC, (SC in next 10 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next 5 STs {72}

R13: (SC in next 11 STs, INC) x 6 {78}

R14-R20 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}

R21: (SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {72}

R22: SC in each ST around {72}

You will now start using both brown and beige yarn so watch out for the color changes.

BRC = brown color

BEC = beige color

R23:

• BRC: SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs
• BEC: SC in next 8 STs
• BRC: INV DEC, (SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 5 STs {66}

R24:

• BRC: SC in next 29 STs
• BEC: SC in next 10 STs
• BRC: SC in next 27 STs {66}

R25:

• BRC: (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 6 STs
• BEC: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs
• BRC: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 9 STs, INV DEC) x 2 {60}

R26:

• BRC: SC in next 25 STs
• BEC: SC in next 13 STs
• BRC: SC in next 22 STs {60}

R27:

• BRC: SC in next 24 STs
• BEC: SC in next 15 STs
• BRC: SC in next 21 STs {60}

R28:

• BRC: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs
• BEC: SC in next ST, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs
• BRC: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 4 STs {54}

Start stuffing the body and stuff as you go along

R29:

• BRC: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs
• BEC: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next ST
• BRC: SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC {48}

R30:

• BRC: SC in next 19 STs
• BEC: SC in next 15 STs
• BRC: SC in next 14 STs {48}

R31:

• BRC: (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs
• BEC: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs
• BRC: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC {42}

R32-R34 (3 rounds):

• BRC: SC in next 17 STs
• BEC: SC in next 14 STs
• BRC: SC in next 11 STs {42}

R35:

• BRC: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs
• BEC: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs
• BRC: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC {36}

R36-R38 (3 rounds):

• BRC: SC in next 15 STs
• BEC: SC in next 12 STs
• BRC: SC in next 9 STs {36}

R39:

• BRC: SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs
• BEC: SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 3 STs
• BRC: SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC {33}

R40:

• BRC: SC in next 14 STs
• BEC: SC in next 11 STs
• BRC: SC in next 8 STs {33}

R41: you will attach the arms to the body in this round (Pic 5 & 6) – watch this video tutorial on How to attach arms to your Amigurumi toy without sewing:

• BRC: SC in next 8 STs
• BRC+BEC: attach the first arm – SC in next 6 STs with BRC and SC in next ST with BEC
• BEC: SC in next 10 STs
• BRC: attach the second arm – SC in next 7 STs
• BRC: SC in next ST {33}

R42:

• BRC: SC in next 14 STs
• BEC: SC in next 11 STs
• BRC: SC in next 8 STs {33}

FO and leave a long tail for sewing, stuff well

Head

Yarn color: brown and beige yarn

Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head

Start with beige color

R1: Chain 8 STs {8}

R2: SC in next 7 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook; go through back bump of each CH as well, now work on the opposite side of the chain, INC in next ST, SC in next 5 STs, INC in last ST {16}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 5 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 5 STs, INC in last 2 STs {22}

R4: (SC in first ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {28}

R5: (SC in first 2 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 5 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {34}

You will now start using both brown and beige yarn so watch out for the color changes.

BRC = brown color

BEC = beige color

R6-R9 (4 rounds):

• BEC: SC in next 3 STs
• BRC: SC in next 8 STs
• BEC: SC in next 23 STs {34}

R10:

• BEC: INC, SC in next 2 STs
• BRC: INC in next 8 STs
• BEC: SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next ST, INC, SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 12 STs, INC, SC in next ST, INC, SC in next ST {48}

R11:

• leave a stitch marker in at the beginning of R11 as you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes
• BEC: SC in next 4 STs
• BRC: SC in next 16 STs
• BEC: SC in next 28 STs {48}

R12:

• BEC: SC in next ST, INC, SC in next 2 STs
• BRC: SC in next 16 STs
• BEC: SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs
• BRC: SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next ST {54}

You will now continue using brown color only

R13: SC in each ST around {54}

R14: SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 21 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next 15 STs, INC, SC in next 3 STs, INC, SC in next ST {60}

R15: SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 37 STs {64}

R16-R17 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {64}

R18: SC in next 42 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 10 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 8 STs {62}

R19: SC in next 2 STs, SC in next ST- BLO, SC in next 4 STs, SC in next ST- BLO, SC in next 18 STs, SC in next ST- BLO, SC in next 4 STs, SC in next ST- BLO, SC in next 30 STs {62} – we are crocheting some stitches in BLO because we want to leave some front loops unworked so we can crochet the ears into them at a later stage (Pic 7)

R20: SC in next 3 STs, SC in next 4 STs – BLO, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 2 STs, SC in next 4 STs – BLO, SC in next 31 STs {60}

R21-R22 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {60}

R23: SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 8 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 4 STs {54}

R24: SC in each ST around {54}

R25: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {48}

R26: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 3 STs {42}

R27: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

You can now place the safety eyes between rounds R11 and R12:

– stuff the head well first

– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – decide if you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety eyes (Pic 8)

– 1st eye – count first 20 STs in R11 and place the eye between ST20 and ST21, i.e. between the beige and brown stitch

– 2nd eye – count first 4 STs in R11 and place the eye between ST4 and ST5, i.e. between the beige and brown stitch

– you can now insert the safety eyes to make sure you are happy with the look. But do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic 9)

Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):

– watch this video tutorial on How to indent eyes in Amigurumi

– take a long strand of brown yarn and thread your needle

– remove the left eye and insert the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic 10)

– remove the right eye and come across the side with the needle and insert it into a stitch next to the right eye hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing

– insert the needle into another stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again

– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time you come across the side

– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then you can weave the yarn in (Pic 11)

– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on making sure they snap in place tightly (Pic 12)

– re-stuff the head and continue crocheting R28; continue to stuff the head gradually

R28: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R29: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R30: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R31: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R32: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in. Watch this video tutorial on How to Close Amigurumi: Ultimate Finish Tutorial

Facial Features

Nose: Embroider the nose using a long strand of black yarn (1m = cca 1yds). Mark the shape and placement of the nose with pins first before you start embroidering. I embroidered the nose between R2 and R6 of the head; leaving 6 stitches between the pins at the top and 1 stitch between the pins at the bottom (Pic 13 & 14). Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider a nose on your Amigurumi toy

Eye brows: Embroider the eye brows using some black embroidery thread. I placed the eye brows between R15 and R16 of the head and across 5 stitches. (Pic 15 & 16). Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi. In this video, I embroider nostrils but you can use the same technique for embroidering the eye brows.

Ears

Yarn color: brown yarn

Construction: you will crochet the ears into the front loops that you left unworked on the top of the head

Watch this video tutorial on How to crochet ears directly onto Amigurumi

• insert your hook into the first front loop stitch on the side (Pic 17)
• wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through the front loop and chain 1 (Pic 18)
• 2x HDC in next FL ST, 2x DC in next FL ST (Pic 19), 2x DC in next FL ST, 2x HDC in next FL ST, SL ST in last FL ST (Pic 20)
• cut the yarn off and pull it out of the working loop
• weave both yarn ends into the head through the front loop stitches on each side of the ear (Pic 21 & 22)

How to Assemble Your Amigurumi Otter

How to Attach the Tail: The best way to do this is to sit your toy up and pin the tail to the lower back making sure your toy is sitting upright and not leaning forwards or backwards. Remember that the yarn tail you have left for sewing should be on the bottom of the tail.

Once you have the tail pinned to the body, lift the body up and see if you are happy with the placement with the toy ‘standing up’. Check the tail is centred and then sew it on, adding more stuffing if needed while sewing. I placed the tail between R8 and R19 of the body.

How to Attach the Head: Pin the head to the body first making sure it is centred and sew it on while adding more stuffing inside the neck. This helps to support the weight of the head so it is not wobbly.

How to Make the Whiskers

You can either embroider the whiskers using some black thread embroidery yarn, which is more suitable for babies and toddlers. Or you can use some black fishing line to make the whiskers. I will show you both options below.

Embroidered Whiskers: Embroider the whiskers using about 50cm (20″) of black thread embroidery yarn as shown in the photo below (Pic 23).

Fishing Line Whiskers: You can make the whiskers using some black nylon fishing line – ideally 0.40mm or 0.35mm size (Pic 24). Watch this video tutorial on How to make whiskers on Amigurumi

You have now finished your crochet toy! I hope you found my crochet otter free pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making the cute crochet sea otter!

And if you enjoyed the easy assembly of this crochet toy then you will love these patterns:

No-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Low-Sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns